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Forrest Blade Help Needed

1K views 16 replies 9 participants last post by  bigblockyeti 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Hello to all my fellow wood lovers!.

I recently purchased a Woodworker II 10" 40T full kerf blade that turned out to be defective (have too much run out). I got in touch with Forrest and they were extremely helpful and offered me a replacement.

Problem is that same blade is out of stock for the next 5 weeks which is longer than I am willing to wait so I was given two options.

I can either exchange for a Woodworker II 10" 40T thin kerf or a Woodworker II 10" 40T full kerf modified #6 ATB-R.

Just to give a little background, this will be used on a Delta 36-725T2 contractor saw.

Please advise :)
 
#2 · (Edited by Moderator)
What saw will you be using it on? (What horsepower) I have both of those blades and love them, but my go to blade has been the thin kerf blade. If it was me that is where I would go, but it depends on what you are looking to cut and your projects over all. Also what sort of adjustability do you have for your fence, i.e will it be easy for you to re-zero your rip fence to the new blade? Do you use / have already cut into a zero clearance insert with a full kerf blade? Likewise do you have a riving knife on your saw and or the ability to get a thin kerf one?
 
#5 ·
What saw will you be using it on? (What horsepower) I have both of those blades and love them, but my go to blade has been the thin kerf blade. If it was me that is where I would go, but it depends on what you are looking to cut and your projects over all. Also what sort of adjustability do you have for your fence, i.e will it be easy for you to re-zero your rip fence to the new blade? Do you use / have already cut into a zero clearance insert with a full kerf blade? Likewise do you have a riving knife on your saw and or the ability to get a thin kerf one?

- rizzo
This will be used on a Delta contractor saw which i believe has a 1.75 horsepower motor so would definitely benefit from a thin kerf blade. I would need a new zero clearance insert plate. My original riving knife is made for a thin kerf blade so that is also a plus.

But i also like the idea of the modified blade to give flat cuts for when cutting a quick dado or rabbit / groove.

This will be mostly used for a hobbiest, furniture building.

My dilemma is get the thin kerf which is better for my saw as it does not have a ton of power and have to recalibrate fence and cross cut sled and insert?

or

Get the full kerf modified and leave everything in place and hope that the saw will be able to handle whatever I throw at it.
 
#7 · (Edited by Moderator)
Doesn't seem to me you would necessarily have to do anything with the crosscut sled….you'd just have a kerf that i 1/32" too wide i it…right? For the saws I've had, to re calibrate the fence (I'm guessing you mean the scale) it was a matter of repositioning the cursor, and I think they were capable of moving 1/32". So that leaves the insert….which might need replacing if you want zero clearance. I'm thinking the thin kerf would be a logical choice. BTW, if you really want to rework the sled, just fill the existing kerf with a 1/8" piece of wood, and then recut.
 
#8 ·
Doesn t seem to me you would necessarily have to do anything with the crosscut sled….you d just have a kerf that i 1/32" too wide i it…right? For the saws I ve had, to re calibrate the fence (I m guessing you mean the scale) it was a matter of repositioning the cursor, and I think they were capable of moving 1/32". So that leaves the insert….which might need replacing if you want zero clearance. I m thinking the thin kerf would be a logical choice. BTW, if you really want to rework the sled, just fill the existing kerf with a 1/8" piece of wood, and then recut.

- Fred Hargis
Fred, you are correct. Not a big deal in regards to fence and I have an extra insert i had as a backup i can use.

I do have a Incra Miter 5000 that i cut for a 1/8 kerf blade and knowing how ocd I am, would probably buy a new drop off panel and cut for the new blade but not a big deal.

I just like the fact of the modified blade that will cut flat grooves but I am leaning towards the thin kerf option right now
 
#9 ·
It is my experience combo blades are not well suited for contractor saws. After Rigid and Freud, I switched to a plain old 24 tooth rip and 60 tooth crosscut. Results are far better. Leave the combos for the 3 HP cabinent saws.

Not what you want to hear. Sorry, but that is my experience.
 
#10 ·
It is my experience combo blades are not well suited for contractor saws. After Rigid and Freud, I switched to a plain old 24 tooth rip and 60 tooth crosscut. Results are far better. Leave the combos for the 3 HP cabinent saws.

Not what you want to hear. Sorry, but that is my experience.

- tvrgeek
Thank you for the input. The plan is to upgrade to a cabinet saw in the near future
 
#12 · (Edited by Moderator)
The plan is to upgrade to a cabinet saw in the near future

- Mohamed Gobara

That s new info and to me might switch the decision, maybe skip the thin kerf.

- Fred Hargis
Don't we all want to upgrade to a cabinet saw one day lol.

Just to clarify, when I say near future, i mean probably in a couple of years hopefully sooner but for sure not this year
 
#13 ·
It is my experience combo blades are not well suited for contractor saws. After Rigid and Freud, I switched to a plain old 24 tooth rip and 60 tooth crosscut. Results are far better. Leave the combos for the 3 HP cabinent saws.

Not what you want to hear. Sorry, but that is my experience.

- tvrgeek
Mine also, if I am ripping more than a couple of feet I always change to a rip blade, makes a world of difference with my saw.
 
#15 ·
The plan is to upgrade to a cabinet saw in the near future

- Mohamed Gobara

That s new info and to me might switch the decision, maybe skip the thin kerf.

- Fred Hargis

Don't we all want to upgrade to a cabinet saw one day lol.

Just to clarify, when I say near future, i mean probably in a couple of years hopefully sooner but for sure not this year

- Mohamed Gobara
OK, then. Back to the thin kerf.
 
#17 ·
FWIW, I have a 3hp Unisaw and still run a 40T thin kerf Diablo blade most of the time for the sake of less kerf loss and less strain on the machine (even though it can certainly handle it) when performing lots of ripping. In the rare instance I accidentally cut metal (for me about once every 3 years I have an oops) I'm out less money if I destroy a blade vs. the 50T Delta full kerf combo blades I would otherwise be running.
 
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