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Coated blades on PCS

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Forum topic by tvrgeek posted 01-11-2021 10:17 AM 555 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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tvrgeek

1145 posts in 2623 days


01-11-2021 10:17 AM

Topic tags/keywords: question tablesaw

Topic came up on Amazon and I did send an inquiry to SawStop, but for more reliable first hand answers, asking here. ( plus I am inpatient)

Is the contact for the blade the arbor of the flanges? Many blades, like Diablo and CMT have non-conductive coating, but the inside of the hole is clean metal. Of course the tops are exposed, so if the contact is the arbor, the brake would work, but if in the flange, it would not.

How do the work?

Back to deciding for myself. Darn is it a lot of money and the Harvey 300 is on sale. My Ridgid actually cuts everything I need, but just not quite as smooth, splitters for throat plates instead of a real knife, and been close a couple of times.


9 replies so far

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therealSteveN

7009 posts in 1548 days


#1 posted 01-11-2021 11:31 AM



Topic came up on Amazon and I did send an inquiry to SawStop, but for more reliable first hand answers, asking here. ( plus I am inpatient)

Is the contact for the blade the arbor of the flanges? Many blades, like Diablo and CMT have non-conductive coating, but the inside of the hole is clean metal. Of course the tops are exposed, so if the contact is the arbor, the brake would work, but if in the flange, it would not.

How do the work?

Back to deciding for myself. Darn is it a lot of money and the Harvey 300 is on sale. My Ridgid actually cuts everything I need, but just not quite as smooth, splitters for throat plates instead of a real knife, and been close a couple of times.

- tvrgeek

Well from what you have said, it’s clear to me you should go ahead and buy the Felder….......

-- Think safe, be safe

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Lazyman

6362 posts in 2361 days


#2 posted 01-11-2021 01:09 PM

You got me wondering so I did a quick search of the manual for the word “coat” (see page 10). It says to not use blades with coated teeth until the coating has been worn off from use. It also says
”Never touch the arbor, arbor pulley, arbor nut or arbor washer when the blade is spinning because you may receive a serious injury. These parts are all electrically coupled to the blade and the brake will activate if contact with these parts is detected”

This would imply that both the arbor and the washer/flange are connected to the safety system.

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

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Redoak49

5026 posts in 2963 days


#3 posted 01-11-2021 01:53 PM

I use Freud coated blades all the time with no problem.

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HarveyM

153 posts in 2996 days


#4 posted 01-11-2021 01:59 PM

You can test the Sawstop with it not running. It will indicate if it would have triggered during operation. If you’ve had close calls definitely go with a Sawstop (or slider).

-- Just a Duffer

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tvrgeek

1145 posts in 2623 days


#5 posted 01-11-2021 03:13 PM

As I don’t have one, I can’t test one.
From the comment from Lazyman, sounds like the arbore is the path so the blade hole being clean would make the circuit. Never seen “coated teeth” but maybe some have a new shipment coating.

I guess if somehow you touched the side of the blade and snagged a gullet, it could do a real number on you.

Sure Steve, spot me 20 grand for a Felder, Oh yea, and another 100 grand or so to build a shop big enough for it. :)

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furnman487

31 posts in 707 days


#6 posted 01-11-2021 03:30 PM

I have a CMT on my SawStop and touching anywhere on the blade indicates the brake would fire.

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RClark

14 posts in 3159 days


#7 posted 01-14-2021 01:06 PM



...
I guess if somehow you touched the side of the blade and snagged a gullet, it could do a real number on you.

...

- tvrgeek

Teflon coated blades like the Freud are not a problem with my SS.

One can safely test conductivity on the SS very easily—without triggering the brake. With the Master Switch on and the green light showing AND THE PADDLE IN THE OFF POSITION (BLADE NOT TURNING), touch a conductor to the stationary blade plate. You will see that the red light at the switch will begin flashing and keep flashing until contact with the conductor is removed.

If the saw is operating properly, it will not turn on while that red light is flashing.

Some use this simple test to determine if PT lumber is too wet to cut without using the safety bypass feature. Personally, if I’m cutting PT lumber that was just purchased, I’ll use the bypass feature in every instance. That stuff is so moist…

-- Ray

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dbw

496 posts in 2611 days


#8 posted 01-14-2021 01:17 PM



I use Freud coated blades all the time with no problem.

- Redoak49


+1

-- Measure twice, cut once. If you cut it too short get a wood stretcher.

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tvrgeek

1145 posts in 2623 days


#9 posted 01-14-2021 02:37 PM

I think I decided on a different path. Looking at the total safety aspect. A bigger, heavier, smoother saw with a riving knife is safer. Not as safe, but better. So going back to a Harvey 300 maybe. But, for the money I don’t spend on the PCS, I can buy the new Harvey 700 DC system and do a far better job of dust collection. It can fit under the outfeed table and need inches of ductwork, not tens of feet and corners. As I roll around my jointer and planer anyway, no difference. Router is built in, so shorter hoses there and I can make the outfeed a down-draft table for safer sanding and hand work.

Just thinking about how to do the band saw, miter and disk sanders. I might get radical as to cut the floor and put in the pipe below the slab. Run power under the slab, and have no obstructions to work around. Maybe. Big job. I think MDF dust is more dangerous than my attentiveness. Plus, a fair portion of things I used to do on the TS I do on the BS now.

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