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Bandsaw blade issue

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Forum topic by Thorxes posted 12-04-2020 01:28 AM 346 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Thorxes

23 posts in 105 days


12-04-2020 01:28 AM

Running into an issue that I’m not sure how to fix.

The 14” bandsaw I recent acquired is marked for a 93” blade – which is precisely what I have (I measured).

When I try and put it on though, I “bottom” out the top wheel to where it won’t go up any further. I can get it so that the blade will stay on, but it doesn’t have enough tension to work properly.

While spinning the wheel by hand – you can see the blade slightly moving back and forth on the wheel. Pushing laterally on the blade also creates more than a 1/4” deviation.

I checked the wheel sizes, and they measure at just over 13.5”, which is consistent with my other 14” bandsaw. I’m not sure what other adjustment options I have other than using a smaller blade?


10 replies so far

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

8361 posts in 3175 days


#1 posted 12-04-2020 02:22 AM

Check to make sure your upper wheel bracket is not bent/broken. You may have to remove the wheel to get a good look.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View Madmark2's profile

Madmark2

2096 posts in 1564 days


#2 posted 12-04-2020 02:30 AM

New tires are needed.

-- The hump with the stump and the pump!

View Thorxes's profile

Thorxes

23 posts in 105 days


#3 posted 12-04-2020 03:16 AM



New tires are needed.

- Madmark2

How do the tires make up for that much tension loss?

It’s only a 1/4” blade.

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Madmark2

2096 posts in 1564 days


#4 posted 12-04-2020 03:36 AM

The circumference gains 3x (actually pi x) for each mil of tire wear times 2 tires. It doesn’t take much to loosen, not to mention glaze caused slip.

Did you remember to flip the detensioner lever back on?

-- The hump with the stump and the pump!

View Thorxes's profile

Thorxes

23 posts in 105 days


#5 posted 12-04-2020 03:44 AM



The circumference gains 3x (actually pi x) for each mil of tire wear times 2 tires. It doesn t take much to loosen, not to mention glaze caused slip.

Did you remember to flip the detensioner lever back on?

That makes sense I suppose.

This is an older bandsaw without a tensioner lever.

- Madmark2


View Rich's profile

Rich

6398 posts in 1565 days


#6 posted 12-04-2020 04:03 AM

0.00314 inches per mil on the tire is nothing. If anything, MrUnix has the best suggestion so far. I’d offer more, but without seeing the saw, I’d only be speculating.

Worst case, you can order custom length blades online. Assuming the saw is not defective as MrUnix suggested as a possibility, you can order a 92 1/2 inch blade—or whatever works for your saw—at a reasonable price. Typically there’s a minimum order of 3 blades or so, but they won’t break the bank.

-- Half of what we read or hear about finishing is right. We just don’t know which half! — Bob Flexner

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Thorxes

23 posts in 105 days


#7 posted 12-04-2020 02:39 PM



you can order a 92 1/2 inch blade—or whatever works for your saw—

- Rich

That was the big odd part – the saw was hand marked for 93”, and the blade is exactly that.

The blade is definitely REALLY dull, so I thought maybe it was also stretched. But when I measured, it’s exactly 93”. Not sure what could have happened to the machine to make it loose something mechanically.

But I think you’re right – using a small blade is likely the answer. I wonder if going as low as 92” would be the safer bet?

View Thorbjorn88's profile

Thorbjorn88

205 posts in 1118 days


#8 posted 12-04-2020 03:22 PM

For each inch you go shorter on the blade the top wheel will need to move down 1/2” to get the same tension since the length difference is split between the two ‘sides’ of the blade. So figure out how much more play you need multiply it by 2 and subtract that number from 93” and that’s the blade length you want.

-- Dave

View bilyo's profile

bilyo

1256 posts in 2078 days


#9 posted 12-04-2020 04:02 PM

I could be wrong but, I have a feeling that you are not re-tensioning the blade after you put it on. You say you “bottomed out” the upper wheel to get the blade on. Did you use the same adjustment screw to move the wheel upward and re-tension the blade after getting it into position?
Otherwise, it seems like there is something blocking movement of the upper carriage. Make sure everything there is clean and lubricated.
Also, check the tension spring. It could be broken or weakened.

View Thorxes's profile

Thorxes

23 posts in 105 days


#10 posted 12-04-2020 04:53 PM



I could be wrong but, I have a feeling that you are not re-tensioning the blade after you put it on. You say you “bottomed out” the upper wheel to get the blade on. Did you use the same adjustment screw to move the wheel upward and re-tension the blade after getting it into position?
Otherwise, it seems like there is something blocking movement of the upper carriage. Make sure everything there is clean and lubricated.
Also, check the tension spring. It could be broken or weakened.

- bilyo

I pulled the wheel off and pulled off the adjustment screw/nuts – nothing appears broken and nothing is blocking the upper carriage. The upper carriage just runs up against the upper body of the saw – the only fix would be to cut out additional space in that upper body so that the carriage could travel up further.

I also checked the spring and the threads – all appear good. And even if the spring was weak – I don’t think it would matter since the carriage isn’t traveling up far enough for the spring to add any more tension to the system.

And yes – once I get the blade on, I’m going back to the adjustment screw to add more tension. This is where the upper carriage “bottoms out” and gets to a point where it just won’t travel up any further.

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