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Delta Contractor Saw - 34-410 - Accessories

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Forum topic by racielrod posted 12-04-2020 12:09 AM 368 views 0 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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racielrod

18 posts in 1188 days


12-04-2020 12:09 AM

Topic tags/keywords: question tablesaw

Hello,

I have an old Delta contractor saw (model 34-410) and I’m considering some upgrades to it.
I’m new to woodworking and I would really appreciate some feedback on the options I’m considering given your experience.

Fence
- I’m considering the Delta T3. It is within my budget and the reviews are not bad. Any red flags here? Things to consider?
I like this fence because, in theory, I would not need to drill to install it.
While the jet-lock has been OK, I think I would like to upgrade.

Splitters / Riving Knifes
I’m currently using the original splitter and guard that came with the table saw, but I’m looking for options.
I’m considering 2 alternatives
- The disappearing splitter
- The removable splitter

I have also searched for the Biesemeyer Snap-in version, but I haven’t found it anywhere for sale.
I checked the Sharkguard, but while super nice, it is over my overall budget considering I’m trying to upgrade several parts at once.
I have looked at the splitter from microjig, but I think I prefer the other 2 versions above. Am I wrong?

Which one would work best for this saw?
Should I consider any alternative over the other or would they both work just fine?

Dust Collection
I don’t think these contractor saws were designed with dust collection in mind (maybe I’m wrong).
What would you recommend if you were in my shoes to address dust collection – good enough is fine.

Apologies for the ton of questions.

Thanks in advance!

R. Rod.


7 replies so far

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MrUnix

8355 posts in 3168 days


#1 posted 12-04-2020 12:46 AM

I seriously doubt the T3 will be a direct bolt on fence – Biesemeyers have always indicated the need for drilling and/or taping in their installation manuals. As for the splitters – the Disappearing splitter will only work on right tilt Unisaws, so you can’t use that one. For the other – you can basically make one exactly like that by just cutting down your existing splitter and removing the guard. If you look art the one shown in the link, it’s basically just the front portion of your existing splitter. Cut yours down and they would look about the same:


Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

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racielrod

18 posts in 1188 days


#2 posted 12-04-2020 03:09 AM


I seriously doubt the T3 will be a direct bolt on fence – Biesemeyers have always indicated the need for drilling and/or taping in their installation manuals.

I have read a few reviews on Amazon of 34-440 owners installing this fence w/o any drilling. No accounts of 34-410 owners but I was assuming the hole configuration would be the same.


As for the splitters – the Disappearing splitter will only work on right tilt Unisaws, so you can t use that one.

Bummer, I was really excited about this one, it looked convenient.


For the other – you can basically make one exactly like that by just cutting down your existing splitter and removing the guard. If you look art the one shown in the link, it s basically just the front portion of your existing splitter. Cut yours down and they would look about the same:

You are right, good point.

Thank you Brad!

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woodbutcherbynight

7239 posts in 3378 days


#3 posted 12-04-2020 04:35 AM

I have the T2 fence and needed only one hole drilled and tapped out. As for dust collection you can make it onboard with a shop vac, or an adapter for a main DC. here is the rub, you just don’t get that much performance out of it. It was not designed for it. Now you can make a drawer for the main dust maker, and put it under the blade. Depth of drawer can be whatever you like. A shallow one say 2 inches will require more frequent emptying but does work.

How do I know?

Twin models of your saw. Each one had drawers for dust collection, and on the back for the where the motors hang as well.

Dust collection

-- Live to tell the stories, they sound better that way.

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

6732 posts in 3462 days


#4 posted 12-04-2020 11:34 AM

I had a 34-444, and for DC I attached a port to the bottom of the saw that connected to a 4” hose (over that big square opening). Then at first I made some covers that fit around the belt and motor brackets. These were just 1/4” hardboard, and I held them on with a sheet metal screw…it was 2 separate pieces. It was meant to direct some of the make up air in the saw cabinet, and at best it was OK. Eventually, I just buit a box to enclose the motor that was suspended under a (fixed) outfeed table. This worked much better, but it did require leaving the outfeed table in place….not handy if you wanted to roll the saw against the wall. The dust port I used looked something like this. It won’t be easy, and i had a fairly large DC.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

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racielrod

18 posts in 1188 days


#5 posted 12-04-2020 06:18 PM



I have the T2 fence and needed only one hole drilled and tapped out.

Great! Thanks for confirming this.

As for dust collection you can make it onboard with a shop vac, or an adapter for a main DC. here is the rub, you just don t get that much performance out of it. It was not designed for it.

I love what you did with your saws, but unfortunately, I don’t have space for it.
I was looking at this approach and using an Oneida system with my shop-vac (I only use this saw occasionally) which should take care of a good % of the dust.
If one of these days I moved to a place where I can have my dedicated shop (vs some space in my garage) I would seriously consider your approach for sure.

Additional questions since you have the same saw:
- Are those CI extension wings? Where did you get them?
- I’m considering adding a wing for a router, did you build your own or adapted one? – which one?

Thanks a ton for your feedback!

View racielrod's profile

racielrod

18 posts in 1188 days


#6 posted 12-04-2020 06:20 PM



I had a 34-444, and for DC I attached a port to the bottom of the saw that connected to a 4” hose (over that big square opening). Then at first I made some covers that fit around the belt and motor brackets. These were just 1/4” hardboard, and I held them on with a sheet metal screw…it was 2 separate pieces. It was meant to direct some of the make up air in the saw cabinet, and at best it was OK. Eventually, I just buit a box to enclose the motor that was suspended under a (fixed) outfeed table. This worked much better, but it did require leaving the outfeed table in place….not handy if you wanted to roll the saw against the wall. The dust port I used looked something like this. It won t be easy, and i had a fairly large DC.

- Fred Hargis

Thanks for your comment.
I’m considering a middle of the road approach (good enough is fine for now). Unfortunately, I need to roll the saw and store it against the wall.

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woodbutcherbynight

7239 posts in 3378 days


#7 posted 12-05-2020 02:35 AM


I love what you did with your saws, but unfortunately, I don t have space for it.
I was looking at this approach and using an Oneida system with my shop-vac (I only use this saw occasionally) which should take care of a good % of the dust.
If one of these days I moved to a place where I can have my dedicated shop (vs some space in my garage) I would seriously consider your approach for sure.

Additional questions since you have the same saw:
- Are those CI extension wings? Where did you get them?
- I m considering adding a wing for a router, did you build your own or adapted one? – which one?

Thanks a ton for your feedback!

- racielrod

I studied that one before I made mine. The plumbing for the DC was problematic in that it took away valuable storage space. Opted for the drawers instead.

The extension wings are Cast Iron, both saws had two each. The router table extension wing is custom built. I do intend to upgrade it but am working out the engineering aspect of the design. While they offer many different router lifts I made a small one for roundovers and other smaller work and really like the way it worked out. Using a lab lift and some springs to pull it back down it works fantastic. Accurate and has above table bit change. That is a great bonus. But it needs to only be a certain height and I have to make a mock up to see where I can size it down some. Another project.

You can look my design over here. LINK

-- Live to tell the stories, they sound better that way.

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