I am in need of a 1/8th" slot cutter and in my travels found a joint I am unfamiliar with, it is a rockler bit and it looks interesting. Where would you use this? It could make some of my joints very easy if it is strong. Would you be holding the piece vertical to run it through ? I am beginning to make boxes and small things working my way up.
That's a lock miter bit. It makes a really strong miter. Watch a few videos on how to set it up and use it. One piece goes through flat on the router table the other goes up against the fence. It takes some testing to get them dialed in but you can either make or buy a set up block. The block will get you close buy might have to fine tune to get it exact.
You might want to look into a drawer lock joint. You can buy bits for it or use slot cutters. I made some jigs to do it with one slot cutter years ago, but later I bought a bit and use it instead of rabbets sometimes. Looks a little fancy at the end.
Another trick I use is after getting the setup done, I use double-sided tape to attack a piece of thin temper board that is the exact same dimensions as the workpiece. This gives the workpiece a solid surface to ride against the fence and helps insure a perfect cut.
Some of the setup blocks look small and rest on the plastic throat plates (with it's dips and imperfections), I wonder if that is a problem ?? Could a piece of wood partially cut by the bit (like a test cut) be a setup block ?
but if I were to go through the set up and routing, I would go a little further and do dovetails. Not much more work if you have a good jig. This all depends on what your doing of course.
Here is Rich's which I learned a lot from. He shows you a few different methods of getting the setup dialed in. I have tried all of the methods that he posted including buying his Infinity Tools jig. They all work.
The devil is in the setup. Get it right and it's a wonderful thing.
Another benefit of the lock miter joint is the it requires clamping in only one direction. As you tighten the clamps, the joint pulls itself together. The little tongue in the middle of the miter prevents the joint slipping like a plain miter does.
The setup block is like eight bucks and is worth every penny-buy it. I tried to go without it and spent hours and several feet of stock getting it set up just right.
I used miter locks for my newel posts and the joint was indeed awesome.
The setup block is like eight bucks and is worth every penny-buy it. I tried to go without it and spent hours and several feet of stock getting it set up just right.
I used miter locks for my newel posts and the joint was indeed awesome.
True the setup block is cheap but it is just a question of which method you like most. I have used the block, the jig and Rich's method. All 3 work just as well and are equally easy to screw up.
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