LumberJocks

Using a BEVEL saw guide for circular saw?

  • Advertise with us

« back to Designing Woodworking Projects forum

Forum topic by kaitlyn2004 posted 11-30-2020 01:48 AM 413 views 0 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View kaitlyn2004's profile

kaitlyn2004

24 posts in 84 days


11-30-2020 01:48 AM

I’ve watched countless youtube videos for various ideas on rip guides, fences, crosscut jigs, etc. etc… Looked at various retail fences and guides, etc.

It seems NONE of these demonstrate/support the idea of using the circular saw at a bevel. Searching for a circular saw bevel jig gives me zero examples of people doing this?

I don’t have a ton of spare/scrap plywood to experiment around with right now, so moreso trying to work out the idea in my head… and would it not work with a bevel?

Does a different bevel affect the “entry point” of the saw in the wood? It seems the bevel angle rotation isn’t happening around the central point, which would seemingly throw things off for each degree?

And lastly, it would seem as though you could not align the same way for a crosscut, because where it first hits i.e. the fence/surface of the jig is not the exact measurement of the wood layers below it?

Basically, having a whole bunch of confusion around getting a good fence/guide setup for a bevel rip cut… and getting more and more worried as I find no examples of doing so!

I don’t have a table saw, and looking to first rip the plywood into 8’x6” strips (this is the easy part!) and then cut each of those 6” strips in half with a 45 deg bevel, for french cleats.


7 replies so far

View Loren's profile

Loren

10939 posts in 4624 days


#1 posted 11-30-2020 01:52 AM

“Does a different bevel affect the “entry point” of the saw in the wood?”

yes. Generally. Unless you’re using a Festool saw methinks. They have the pivot point moved out and down to at least minimize the effect. The net result is with the rail guide it more or less puts the straight cut and the bevel cut on the same line.

View Madmark2's profile

Madmark2

2096 posts in 1564 days


#2 posted 11-30-2020 02:16 AM

Most circ saws have a 2nd guide notch in the baseplate for the 45° cut line.


Beveled slot is 45° cut line, straight slit is straight cut.

You don’t need a “bevel jig” because you just tilt the baseplate as you would on a jig saw.

-- The hump with the stump and the pump!

View SMP's profile

SMP

3203 posts in 881 days


#3 posted 11-30-2020 02:23 AM

Are you talking 1 bevel? Or you want it to be variable. For example if you just wanted 45, make one with saw set at 45 like the type Tommy makes on This Old House.

View kaitlyn2004's profile

kaitlyn2004

24 posts in 84 days


#4 posted 11-30-2020 04:19 AM


Are you talking 1 bevel? Or you want it to be variable. For example if you just wanted 45, make one with saw set at 45 like the type Tommy makes on This Old House.

- SMP


Have a link? Yes, I could do with just 45deg now, don’t need to be super versatile (it’d be nice if one jig could do 0 + 45, but meh!)

I haven’t tried to build yet, but I imagine I could do the same most basic guide where there is the baseplate + fence that you’d push the plate against. And then others where I’ve seen they emulate the track idea so it doesn’t sway either direction.

I’m just… wondering if it really is that simple! Maybe I do try to go for the rails/track idea given that going to 45deg really shifts the weight around

View SMP's profile

SMP

3203 posts in 881 days


#5 posted 11-30-2020 04:36 AM

You basically make it too big then cut with the saw you will be using, just do one side at 45 and other at 90 or make 2
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=qIeIZdrbz-Y

View therealSteveN's profile

therealSteveN

7013 posts in 1550 days


#6 posted 11-30-2020 06:28 AM

As Loren pointed out if you are using a tracksaw, the point of entry is right on the straight line point of entry, if/when you tilt the blade you get just a smallish movement, but mostly what you get is an undercut edge, of course because it’s beveled.

You can also use a straight line rip jig with a circular saw, see below.

When you build one of these you only need to have one edge straight, that’s the one the saw will run against. Your base piece only needs to be wider. I usually use 14” for the base, and 4” for the guide. That allows the roughly 5” of most circular saws from the blade to the edge of your guide strip (the straight piece) on the far side you want a foot pad so you have somewhere to place a clamp at each end of the base to keep it from moving. ESPECIALLY if you plan a bevel cut.

when you attach the guide strip to the base you don’t need to measure too accurately, because your first cut is going to whack off any of the base past the cut line anyhow. I try to keep that waste to a minimum, so you have plenty of room on the far side to clamp, and not have your clamp get in the way of the travel off your saw.

AFTER you make your initial cut, you can then use the rip guide to make bevels cuts. You will likely take off a smidge from under your edge, but it will retain enough to still use it for straight line cuts.

If you haven’t used a straight line rip jig, make a cut or 3 before going to bevels. I have never seen this difficulty, but I have read of those saying they couldn’t keep the saw against the guide strip?????

-- Think safe, be safe

View therealSteveN's profile

therealSteveN

7013 posts in 1550 days


#7 posted 11-30-2020 06:35 AM



You basically make it too big then cut with the saw you will be using, just do one side at 45 and other at 90 or make 2
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=qIeIZdrbz-Y

- SMP

Mine are similar to what Tommy shows. I have 4’, 8’ and 10’ I like the dual side, but not like Tommy is using for the saw either way. I keep the other half to run a router on. The absolute ONLY limitation for these is you need to use the same saw blade all the time, and the same router bit, or at least the same model, and size, or you are likely to distort your cut line. But as you point out, these are so simple stupid to make, all you need is a sheet of CDX plywood, and get busy. Keep the smooth side up.

-- Think safe, be safe

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com