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Bench Vises

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3K views 29 replies 16 participants last post by  HorizontalMike 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
With my shop project coming to a close. Up next is building a bench / assembly table. I have my sketches and know the size I am looking for.

I want to get some oppions about bench vises. Want seems to work best, would like something that could work in conjunction with bench dogs. Is a metal screw better than a wood screw? Are there any good kits available? My thoughts are mounting one on a long side and one on the end.

Thanks for reading and the comments.
 
#8 ·
PurpLev,
Planning on a heavy bench made up of 2x stock, measuring 7' x 3'6". Having a 6" overhang from the base. I will be using 3/4 plywood topped with a piece of hard board, then band the edge. I have thought about adding a 2×6 across the top of the bench frame which would give me a full 2 1/2" along the edges. With a shelf on the bottom and drawers. I have built one similar in the past and it is sturdy.

I have some furniture ideas with mortens and tenons that I would like to build. Smaller projects with different types of joints. Teach myself how to use more hand tools. Ultimatly I would like to build a sailboat about 23' in length.

But a good bench vise that can be used for a multitude of wood projects. I did see one not to long ago in a Woodsmith article, that elevated the piece which was being worked, either bolt on or it could be clamped to the bench. But that is a build project.
 
#9 ·
If you have amazon prime, this is a good deal for the price. The Yost clone is pretty good too. But I find with the Yost products they are a little "rough", but easily fixed with some wet dry paper and sanding all the edges of the vise screw etc.

https://www.amazon.com/Eclipse-Quick-Release-Woodworking-Vise/dp/B0043YHD4A/ref=pd_aw_vtp_469_1/137-2761186-8550936?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0043YHD4A&pd_rd_r=914122c1-c86a-4fa6-b4d1-0a95d81a69b8&pd_rd_w=bPRgt&pd_rd_wg=bC0Qc&pf_rd_p=9bc007eb-f080-45bf-a7c4-f969cc4a41ce&pf_rd_r=XGKSR2NV8BN0B8K67B9T&psc=1&refRID=XGKSR2NV8BN0B8K67B9T
 
#10 ·
I have that 9inch face vise SMP put a link to, i have loved it. Never had to touch any surface up or anything, it came in good condition all edges broke etc. The quick release works great and will spoil you. It makes taking something in out fast easy, like planing a board and checking it for square etc
 
#12 ·
You would probably be well served starting with a face vise (long side) at the left hand side of your bench. (Assuming you ate right- handed) This will help you get all kinds of work done. Many people only have a face vise on their bench.
Later on, as funds permit, and you feel the need, you can add a tail vise to the right end of your bench.
WARNING: My universal advise for anyone about to build a workbench. Make it AT LEAST 36 inches high. Never less. Trust me, your back will THANK you for it every time you use it.
 
#13 · (Edited by Moderator)
Eric what type of bench are you building? A custom or a Roubo?

I built my bench to suit my specific needs. I have a Jorgensen face vice it has a steel bench dog. I routed out a back plate to cover the back jaw of the vice to allow room for a shop made deadman or a clamps.
Table Furniture Computer desk Wood Desk


I also have a tail vice that I also made the jaws for.

Furniture Table Wood Flooring Floor

I wish I used the Jorgensen type on the tail because the vice doesn't close properly if you don't have the same thickness piece of wood on the opposite side of the vice.

I left a 2-1/2" over hang on the sides of the bench for
space for clamping.
I hope this helps.

Best Regards
James Mc
 

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#14 ·
WARNING: My universal advise for anyone about to build a workbench. Make it AT LEAST 36 inches high. Never less. Trust me, your back will THANK you for it every time you use it.

- Bearcontrare
It depends on what you are doing on the bench. If hand plane work is to be done 36" may be getting a little high but for dovetail work 32" is too low. I find a moxon vise a handy way to get the best of both heights. Still working on my bench but haven't settled on the final leg height yet. I may need to start high and use repetitive cuts to arrive at a sweet spot. It also depends on other factors like how tall you are along with how long your legs are.
 
#15 ·
It depends on what you are doing on the bench. If hand plane work is to be done 36" may be getting a little high but for dovetail work 32" is too low. I find a moxon vise a handy way to get the best of both heights. Still working on my bench but haven t settled on the final leg height yet. I may need to start high and use repetitive cuts to arrive at a sweet spot. It also depends on other factors like how tall you are along with how long your legs are.

- controlfreak
Not really. Paul Sellers recommends 38" for all hand tool work. He says if you feel its too high, then your plane
Isn't truly sharp:
 
#18 · (Edited by Moderator)
I have one of the Kreg project centers. I have been absolutely amazed at how easily I am able to clamp odd items using in-line clamps, their Automaxx, tracks on the side of the table, etc. I have some experience on a Festool MFT3 and found it similarly useful. A little more money though. When not in use the there is no clamp protruding from the side of the table. If I was building a bench I would think hard about adding tracks/plates and such to use other clamps. Even if I put another vise on it, I would probably still add some rails and plates to have more options.

You can't get the extreme clamping pressures with Kreg clamps, but I haven't had issues. We generally overestimate the clamping pressure required.
 
#19 ·
A single layer of 3/4" plywood with hardboard is not strong or rigid enough.

Most ready-made WW vises bolt to the underside of the bench top, and standard ones' faces rise just under 2.25" from the mounting surface.

I would recommend a minimum of 2 layers of 3/4" hardwood plywood, plus blocking underneath to support vises, and bring the top of the vise to at or below flush with the bench top.

I have used 3 layers of 3/4" hardwood plywood, glued & screwed together from underneath, with excellent results, and little fuss. You can get a ~24" x ~64" top out of one 4×8 sheet (middle layer is two pieces). Easily supports heavy duty WW vises on corners, outside the legs/base.
 
#20 ·
Lot of great ideas and more to think about. Starting in the right area though. Get the ideas about the vise to use then work on the bench design. My current design may fall short for the use. Especially when it comes to the thickness.

I have been looking at Lee Valley a Veritas front vise. And reading through the install spec's, yes I need to have a thicker top. Also I need to watch the location of the legs as not to interfere with the screw or guides.

I like the hard board on the top for the smoothness of the surface and the fact I can change it out if it gets to torn up down the road.

But either way get the vise first, then design.
 
#21 ·
I love the Lee Valley Veritas vises. They had a booth at the AWFS show here in Las Vegas a few years back.
And as I was designing my bench I was up in the air over the twin screw, or the quick release front vise.
But cost just got crazy for what my budget and needs allowed.

In the end I did buy from Lee valley, but went with this quick release steel bench vise. I got the 10" version. Was around $190, but now I see its up to about $220.
It is very similar to the Yost and Eclipse. But as mentioned about the Yost being a little rough. This vise is as smooth as can be. It is listed on the web site as being made in a small firm in Europe.
2Dusty2 mentioned his coming out of Czechoslovakia.
Anyway, I have been very happy with mine.
https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/workshop/workbenches/vises/49980-quick-release-steel-bench-vises
 
#22 ·
Thanks John,

I am leaning to the Veritas, not sure if I want to get the quick release or not. I have been thinking about the bench design, making it thicker. I have some 2×6's left over from the shop build this year.
 
#24 · (Edited by Moderator)
If you use plywood for the top, use it like Paul sellers does in his plywood workbench, then you can always resurface it.

Plywood lamination:
from about 12'30"

Otherwise use your 2X6 to make a laminated top.
solid wood bench-top lamination:
Mine is about 75 mm thick.

As for the optimum height, there is a study showing it is about 15 cm below elbow height (with your shoes on).
 
#25 ·
It depends on what you are doing on the bench. If hand plane work is to be done 36" may be getting a little high but for dovetail work 32" is too low. I find a moxon vise a handy way to get the best of both heights. Still working on my bench but haven t settled on the final leg height yet. I may need to start high and use repetitive cuts to arrive at a sweet spot. It also depends on other factors like how tall you are along with how long your legs are.

- controlfreak

Not really. Paul Sellers recommends 38" for all hand tool work. He says if you feel its too high, then your plane
Isn't truly sharp:


- SMP
I was going off what Will Myers opinion (it's his bench plans) is that the proper height should be at about the end of your first knuckle. I don't know what I prefer yet which is why I am leaving my legs on the long side, it's easier to remove than to add. Funny you mention this because I was thinking to myself that Paul Seller's bench looks much higher than that. So in the end you may have saved me from short cutting my legs out from under me.
 
#26 ·
I have both a tail vise and a face vise on my work bench. That said, I truly use the face vise 95% of the time. Yes, the face vise is high-end, but I would do it again! If you choose to go this route, get the largest widest twin screw vise possible. Once you start using it you will see why you need the widest twin screws… much can fit between the screws.
https://www.horizontalheavens.com/21st_century_workbench_project.htm

My face vise:


My tail/end vise:
 
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