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Forum topic by MrMenessis posted 11-26-2020 07:14 PM 583 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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26 posts in 3621 days

11-26-2020 07:14 PM

One thing I have wanted to for such a long time is a chess board. I see lots of them being built using the end grain. I’m not sure I like that as much as “non end grain” LoL.

Am I correct in that end grain solves the movement problems to an extent? And hence the popularity? I have looked into doing veneer. I can cut my own veneer, even though I haven’t as of yet. But I would rather have the squares kinda thick and the edge showing. So now I’m wondering if I go with say 2” x 1/2” think squares and glue that down to 3/4” MDF If it will hold? And then leave a small space to take up movement between playing surface and frame.

I also like the look of a chamfer on each square. But that opens a whole other can of worms. Chamfer the first set of strips with the grain. Easy enough. Glue up and then do the perpendicular cut. But then you need to chamfer the end grain. I think there would be tear out at each existing chamfer. Unless you climb mill it???

So many questions, so few answers. :(

Any thoughts?

-- Menessis Go Brave

10 replies so far

View Woodmaster1's profile


1615 posts in 3555 days

#1 posted 11-26-2020 07:49 PM

I use three glue ups. I use the planer after the first two and a drum sander on the last. If you don’t have a drum sander then a router sled or belt sander should work. I don’t plane end grain too many bad things can happen.

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26 posts in 3621 days

#2 posted 11-28-2020 01:47 AM

I just found an interesting video kinda of what I was talking about.

-- Menessis Go Brave

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26 posts in 3621 days

#3 posted 01-08-2021 03:33 AM

Here is where I am at with the chess board. I also figured this is the time to build a mitre sled too.

Next step is to sand it flat. I have used sanding sealer with projects done on the lathe. What are the pros and cons using it here?

Then to decide on a finish. I’m thinking rattle cans. But lacquer or

-- Menessis Go Brave

View them700project's profile


289 posts in 1987 days

#4 posted 01-08-2021 01:43 PM

If you want chamfer on each square what I would do is glue up the board with out it then once the board is sanded and square you could take shallow passes with a 90 degree bit using an edge guide.

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26 posts in 3621 days

#5 posted 01-09-2021 03:37 AM

There is a chess board under all that!

Well I managed to get all four sides glued on in one set up. I will never do that again. It was so hard to get each piece in place just right. By the time I had the fourth one on loose I couldn’t slide the first one into place.
I almost gave up! The glue grabbed very quick even though it was only about 16 deg. C to help.
In hindsight I think the dado’s where a little too tight also.

-- Menessis Go Brave

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1219 posts in 879 days

#6 posted 01-09-2021 11:30 PM

Looks like a nice project.

View DaveM123's profile


96 posts in 262 days

#7 posted 01-09-2021 11:58 PM

If you look at my projects you’ll see a chess table I made last year. Might give you an idea.

-- Dave

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26 posts in 3621 days

#8 posted 01-15-2021 03:41 AM

Quick question. What’s a good way clean up the maple saw dust from the walnut?

Almost ready for some lacquer.

-- Menessis Go Brave

View PurpLev's profile


8642 posts in 4617 days

#9 posted 01-15-2021 04:19 AM

Quick question. What s a good way clean up the maple saw dust from the walnut?
- MrMenessis

you can use some denatured alcohol and a rag to give it a light cleaning, or use a damp cloth (water) for a light rub which will also raise the grain and you can do another sanding to smooth it a tad bit finer before the finish

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

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26 posts in 3621 days

#10 posted 01-16-2021 04:45 PM

Well I finally picked up some lacquer. Thought I had a pretty good idea what I had to do. My plan was 3 light coats on the bottom. Then the same on the top. Then sand it out and a “finish” coat.

Right off the jump I knew I was in trouble. The spray was very heavy and a round pattern. And If I stayed at 10 inches the pattern was very small. Good luck trying to do a half overlap. Also it when in looking like orange peel at first. Maybe because I was too far back spraying?

The biggest problem I had though is that the lacquer would not even try to “bridge” any where the grain was open. It’s like it was repelled!

So I will be doing a bunch of sanding to flatten it out but don’t know how to proceed???

-- Menessis Go Brave

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