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Finishing QS White Oak...Need Advice ***UPDATED**

3K views 26 replies 13 participants last post by  RichT 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Hi Guys,
I am in the process of building this clock from WOOD Magazine plans.
Property Wood Wood stain Door Hardwood


I have never worked with QS White Oak and so I am reaching out for advice.
I sprayed a few coats of lacquer on some test pieces but it still seems like they needs some color.
Maybe Danish oil first then lacquer?

I love the color of the clock in the picture.

Any advice or techniques you are willing to share would be greatly appreciated.

Happy Holidays!
 

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#4 ·
It really depends on what you like. If you don't like the look of lacquer alone, you may like the look of danish and lacquer or poly better. You might also like the look of a mix of equal parts linseed oil, poly, and mineral spirits. Also, don't overlook the possibility of a dye to give the wood some color before applying the final finish. As you have done already, test anything new on some scrap first.
 
#5 ·
What kind of look are you trying to achieve? I've seen some stunning pieces finished here. I spent a ton of money on some nicely figured QSWO and then finished it with a water based poly which nearly completely obscured the figure. I may go back and grind it all off and start over.
 
#6 ·
If you want a simple straightforward finish that will add some color and look like what you are going for, check out Mike Pekovich's article on using waterlox followed by dark brown wax. This worked well on some pieces i just did:
https://www.finewoodworking.com/2011/05/18/how-to-apply-wiping-varnish

- SMP
I have ordered the Waterlox and the tinted wax. Can the Waterlox be applied over a stain?
I have been testing a few sample pieces and I really like Minwax Golden Oak on the QWO but I'm not sure what will happen when the two meet. The Waterlox should be here by Friday so I still have plenty of time before Christmas.

Thank for your help.
 
#10 ·
I have ordered the Waterlox and the tinted wax. Can the Waterlox be applied over a stain?

- fivecodys

Yes it can. Be sure to give the stain a couple of days to cure if you use oil based stain. Water based will be ready in less time, as will dye.

Thanks Rich.

- Rich
 
#11 ·
With all the intricate corners and edges you might consider using a wipe on top coat to avoid drips and runs….unless you are equipped to spray it.. Wipe on poly would work, or Madmark's amber shellac also wipes on with a lint free cloth. At warm temperatures the shellac will dry quickly (in minutes) but be careful not to over work it because it can get tacky and messy. If you need more than two coats wait 24 hours for the 3rd coat. Shellac cleans up with household ammonia and water, but I just throw the cloth I use away.

The stain I use to get the color I see in the pict is an oil base Golden Oak….several mfgs make it. Wipe on and wipe off repeat if you don't get the darkness you want
 
#12 ·
So I decided on the Waterlox & Wax process.

Here it is unfinished -VS- just the first Coat of Waterlox

Wood Fixture Wood stain Hardwood Window


Wood Rectangle Composite material Hardwood Flooring


I have now applied 3 coats (sanding in between) and after it dries for a few days I am going to apply the tinted wax.

I am very happy with the color. My pictures really doesn't do it justice.

I will post the finished project in a week or so.

Thank you all for your finishing input.
I really appreciate it.
 

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#14 · (Edited by Moderator)
It's too late now, but I'm surprised nobody mentioned fuming it with amonia. (sp?)

It is the traditional stickly finish, I understand. Just bag/tent it with an open dish of strong ammonia and give it some time. Then final finish over that.

I've never done it!

-Paul
 
#15 ·
It s too late now, but I m surprised nobody mentioned fuming it with amonia. (sp?)

It is the traditional stickly finish, I understand. Just bag/tent it with an open dish of strong ammonia and give it some time. Then final finish over that.

I ve never done it!

-Paul

- Ocelot
I actually read a little about that Paul but it kind of made me nervous. They kept using the phrase "Toxic Fumes". :)
 
#16 ·
Fuming is actually really easy and in my mind the best benefit (aside from the color) is the finish penetrates the wood deeply so no worries about corners getting rubbed bare.

The prominent issue is your wood all needs to be from the same tree/board since the fuming depends on the woods tannin content. You can alter fuming times for various pieces to try and match up the tones but that comes with experience.

Fuming is a nice alternative for white oak, but certainly you can emulate it with dyes nowadays.
 
#17 · (Edited by Moderator)
I actually read a little about that Paul but it kind of made me nervous. They kept using the phrase "Toxic Fumes". :)

- fivecodys
I have done it on various things. Just know there is no one "traditional" finish. There are several, and even those changed over the years. So when someone says finish X is "traditional". That may be true, it may have been used as part of one of the hundreds of traditional finishes. I also replicated the finish in this WWGOA article, and while it was very dark and rich, it was a lot of work, and darker than i personally like in most cases. When i fume now I just coat with garnet shellac now(fuming turns oak greenish). But great article nonetheless:
https://www.wwgoa.com/article/an-authentic-arts-and-crafts-finish/
 
#18 ·
While Danish oil, etc will do a decent job a dye stain will really pop the ray fleck.

A process I've used is 1) amber or yellow dye stain (yes, yellow!), 2) sand, 3) sealer shellac, 4) sand, 5) gel stain glaze, your choice of top coat.

Homesteadfinishing has some good info.

But - nice job!!
 
#24 ·
Kind of late now but I second the idea of fuming with ammonia. The size of your project would make the setup pretty easy. The beauty of fuming is that it looks natural unlike all those synthetic stains/dyes. The only problem is the color develops faster and gets deeper when it's hot-not a winter project :(.
 
#25 ·
So I have another question guys,
If I am happy with the color as it is using the Waterlox, Is there a need to wax it?

- fivecodys
Waxing does very little, if anything to alter the color of a surface. It provides a nice silky smooth feel which is nice!

You should use a wax that i colored similar to your project. I use Minwax "special dark" for no other reason than it's easy to find. Plenty of excellent colored waxes out there to choose from.

The reason behind using colored is on porous woods, the wax will build up in the pores and can make the pores adopt the wax color. For example, using plain white paste wax on walnut can turn the bigger pores into whitish dots.

White oak is relatively non-porous, unlike red oak which is very porous.

Anyway, it's a personal choice. I usually do it just for the feel.
 
#26 ·
So I have another question guys,
If I am happy with the color as it is using the Waterlox, Is there a need to wax it?

- fivecodys

Waxing does very little, if anything to alter the color of a surface. It provides a nice silky smooth feel which is nice!

You should use a wax that i colored similar to your project. I use Minwax "special dark" for no other reason than it s easy to find. Plenty of excellent colored waxes out there to choose from.

The reason behind using colored is on porous woods, the wax will build up in the pores and can make the pores adopt the wax color. For example, using plain white paste wax on walnut can turn the bigger pores into whitish dots.

White oak is relatively non-porous, unlike red oak which is very porous.

Anyway, it s a personal choice. I usually do it just for the feel.

- splintergroup
Yup, hit it with a white Scotch-Brite pad and wax, it'll be smooth as a moth's nose.
 
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