Care of Saw Table Cast iron

I use Johnson’s Paste wax. I’m still working from a can I bought 20+ years ago.

-- Sawdust Maker

I have used wax but I found Bostic’s glide coat works quite well and seems to last about 6 months between applications. It is not cheap but it is a lot faster and easier to use on cast iron surfaces. I use it on all mine including the bed of my lathe where it makes it easier to move and position the tool rest.

Another product I have used is Slip-it which works on both metal as a sealer and lubricant and wood as a lubricant.

I’m not convinced that Boeshield T9 is all that effective; especially in the long run. Maybe only slightly more effective than WD-40.

Most paste waxes work and those with more Carnauba in them will last longer. Not all automotive “polishes” are wax so read the label.

-- Les B, Oregon

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

To remove rust use a little used oil and a 200 grit ROS. When the oil changes color to mud wipe it clean. I use Johnson’s paste wax on most everything, top and fence.

Johnson’s is found in the Floor Care aisle, not in wood finishes.

Avoid ANY silicone based products as that will contaminate your finish.

-- The hump with the stump and the pump!

To remove rust use a little used oil and a 200 grit ROS. When the oil changes color to mud wipe it clean. I use Johnson s paste wax on most everything, top and fence.

Johnson s is found in the Floor Care aisle, not in wood finishes.

Avoid ANY silicone based products as that will contaminate your finish.

- Madmark2

I use very similar methods. Spray with WD-40 or similar, and use the ROS to do the dirty work. Wipe frequently with a rag, respray, and do some more…..it’s messy, but very effective.

I often use a combination of a very light film of Boeshield T9 spray, buff, let dry, then apply paste wax.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

I’ve been doing the same for years, but then treating with Butchers Bowling Alley Wax. Guessing it’s probably very similar to Johnsons, but I’ve had the same can 20 years too and swear by it.

Thanks to everyone for not only the quick replies but for the invaluable input and advice. Greatly appreciated! Again, excellent forum!

Best,
Lyman

If you don’t want to be messing with it every few months, wipe on a few very thin coats of polyurethane, then optionally a light coat of wax. The poly will hold up way longer than the wax. Very thin coats, dampen a paper towel and rub it on. It will also seal any nooks and crannies you can’t see, basically forever.

-- Rick M, http://thewoodknack.blogspot.com/

I have a video on how to care for cast iron tops. If you’ve got more than a bit of surface rust, I use a ROS with a scotch brite pad and WD-40 to clean it up.

-- Tony, SW Chicago Suburbs

once cleaned i spray a table slick on it, can’t remember name, but use it for a lot of items planers and table saws.
works for me, did wax them a few times, but the spray seems to do the deal.

-- Living the dream

I’m another Johnson’s Paste Wax guy. For rust I use a little WD-40 and a Scotchbrite pad. If the rust is a bit thick I’ll use the ROS with the Scothbrite pad.

-- Dave

The wax is just much easier IMO than the T9. The T9 goes on wet, takes longer to dry, and is easy to apply too much and unevenly. The wax on the other hand dries to a haze in a few minutes and even if you are in a hurry and buff it off before it dries will still give you protection. The wax is also more slippery and makes wood and cross cut sleds move more easily.

I was just thinking yesterday that its almost time to buy another can Johnsons paste wax. Once every 36 years is a pretty good bargain.

EDIT: The paste wax is also good for coating any tools that might tend to rust. I wouldn’t want to spray the T9 on them.

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

Not sure what climate you’re in, but I’m in the midwest where you can see the humidity form into rain before your eyes. I find, for rust prevention, wax and T-9 Boshield to be total junk. It doesn’t last nearly long enough. I’m talking a matter of weeks, and if you’re in the shop once or twice a week like me, I can’t be spending that kind of time maintaining tools.

Some kind folks here recommended CRC 3-36, and I’m very impressed! I apply annually and no rust problems whatsoever.

Here’s a link: https://www.amazon.com/CRC-Multi-Purpose-Lubricant-Corrosion-Inhibitor/dp/B00192EX10

I do still use Johnson’s paste wax for lubrication purposes, on top of the CRC 3-36, but I’ve found solely as a rust inhibitor it just doesn’t work for me.

I use CRC too. It was recommended in a Fine Woodworking comparison test issue 227. Aside from that keeping humidity low is your best defence. Also don’t leave stuff on your table. Even a plastic bag left on my table saw a couple days resulted in a visible mark (not rust, but a start)

-- Just a Duffer

lol, its called something kote, use is a lot keeps the tables slick, and frankly in Az not a rust problem for me.
best of luck
rj

-- Living the dream