LumberJocks Woodworking Forum banner

Care of Saw Table Cast iron

4K views 22 replies 17 participants last post by  wapakfred 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Great forum you have here, glad I found it!

With respect to caring for Cast Iron on a Table Saw, is the overall preference Wax over Boeshield T9? If the former, recommended brand of Wax?

Thank you,

Lyman
 
#3 ·
I have used wax but I found Bostic's glide coat works quite well and seems to last about 6 months between applications. It is not cheap but it is a lot faster and easier to use on cast iron surfaces. I use it on all mine including the bed of my lathe where it makes it easier to move and position the tool rest.

Another product I have used is Slip-it which works on both metal as a sealer and lubricant and wood as a lubricant.

I'm not convinced that Boeshield T9 is all that effective; especially in the long run. Maybe only slightly more effective than WD-40.

Most paste waxes work and those with more Carnauba in them will last longer. Not all automotive "polishes" are wax so read the label.
 
#5 · (Edited by Moderator)
To remove rust use a little used oil and a 200 grit ROS. When the oil changes color to mud wipe it clean. I use Johnson's paste wax on most everything, top and fence.

Johnson's is found in the Floor Care aisle, not in wood finishes.

Avoid ANY silicone based products as that will contaminate your finish.
 
#6 · (Edited by Moderator)
To remove rust use a little used oil and a 200 grit ROS. When the oil changes color to mud wipe it clean. I use Johnson s paste wax on most everything, top and fence.

Johnson s is found in the Floor Care aisle, not in wood finishes.

Avoid ANY silicone based products as that will contaminate your finish.

- Madmark2
I use very similar methods. Spray with WD-40 or similar, and use the ROS to do the dirty work. Wipe frequently with a rag, respray, and do some more…..it's messy, but very effective.

I often use a combination of a very light film of Boeshield T9 spray, buff, let dry, then apply paste wax.
 
#8 ·
Thanks to everyone for not only the quick replies but for the invaluable input and advice. Greatly appreciated! Again, excellent forum!

Best,
Lyman
 
#9 ·
If you don't want to be messing with it every few months, wipe on a few very thin coats of polyurethane, then optionally a light coat of wax. The poly will hold up way longer than the wax. Very thin coats, dampen a paper towel and rub it on. It will also seal any nooks and crannies you can't see, basically forever.
 
#13 · (Edited by Moderator)
The wax is just much easier IMO than the T9. The T9 goes on wet, takes longer to dry, and is easy to apply too much and unevenly. The wax on the other hand dries to a haze in a few minutes and even if you are in a hurry and buff it off before it dries will still give you protection. The wax is also more slippery and makes wood and cross cut sleds move more easily.

I was just thinking yesterday that its almost time to buy another can Johnsons paste wax. Once every 36 years is a pretty good bargain.

EDIT: The paste wax is also good for coating any tools that might tend to rust. I wouldn't want to spray the T9 on them.
 
#14 ·
Not sure what climate you're in, but I'm in the midwest where you can see the humidity form into rain before your eyes. I find, for rust prevention, wax and T-9 Boshield to be total junk. It doesn't last nearly long enough. I'm talking a matter of weeks, and if you're in the shop once or twice a week like me, I can't be spending that kind of time maintaining tools.

Some kind folks here recommended CRC 3-36, and I'm very impressed! I apply annually and no rust problems whatsoever.

Here's a link: https://www.amazon.com/CRC-Multi-Purpose-Lubricant-Corrosion-Inhibitor/dp/B00192EX10

I do still use Johnson's paste wax for lubrication purposes, on top of the CRC 3-36, but I've found solely as a rust inhibitor it just doesn't work for me.
 
#15 ·
I use CRC too. It was recommended in a Fine Woodworking comparison test issue 227. Aside from that keeping humidity low is your best defence. Also don't leave stuff on your table. Even a plastic bag left on my table saw a couple days resulted in a visible mark (not rust, but a start)
 
#17 ·
I get made fun of sometimes for my polished CI, but that's ok I never deal with rust. After polishing I spray the iron with clear urethane. no need for wax. As it wears. I quick wipe with some alcohol, a few light sprays of urethane & good to go. The jointer tops are polished & ready to be clear coated, this may not work for everyone but I have had great results.
Engineering Gas Machine Vehicle Metal


Motor vehicle Engineering Gas Machine Industry
 

Attachments

#19 ·
I stick to the Johnsons' paste wax, though over theyears I've used a few other brands (Briwax, Trewax, etc.). they all do a very good job, but the Jonson's is generally a little easier to find.
 
#20 ·
Thanks Dave. What is 'ROS'?

Best,

Lyman
I m another Johnson s Paste Wax guy. For rust I use a little WD-40 and a Scotchbrite pad. If the rust is a bit thick I ll use the ROS with the Scothbrite pad.

- DaveM123
 
#21 ·
Thanks Nathan, especially for the tip on using wax on tools that might tend to rust. During the Summer months the humidity in the garage blows through the roof and some tools (pliers, as an example) do not handle it well. Back in the day you could use Naval Jelly to remove the rust but from what I understand that has been banned….the wax will at least prevent other tools from getting to that point in the first place.

Thanks again,

Lyman

The wax is just much easier IMO than the T9. The T9 goes on wet, takes longer to dry, and is easy to apply too much and unevenly. The wax on the other hand dries to a haze in a few minutes and even if you are in a hurry and buff it off before it dries will still give you protection. The wax is also more slippery and makes wood and cross cut sleds move more easily.

I was just thinking yesterday that its almost time to buy another can Johnsons paste wax. Once every 36 years is a pretty good bargain.

EDIT: The paste wax is also good for coating any tools that might tend to rust. I wouldn t want to spray the T9 on them.

- Lazyman
 
#22 ·
Thanks. Humidity here (North of Boston in Taxachusetts) is only a problem during the Summer months. During that time if I shut the garage door a 50 pint humidifier will fill up relatively quickly. I'll look into the CRC 3-36.

Again, thank you.

Lyman

Not sure what climate you re in, but I m in the midwest where you can see the humidity form into rain before your eyes. I find, for rust prevention, wax and T-9 Boshield to be total junk. It doesn t last nearly long enough. I m talking a matter of weeks, and if you re in the shop once or twice a week like me, I can t be spending that kind of time maintaining tools.

Some kind folks here recommended CRC 3-36, and I m very impressed! I apply annually and no rust problems whatsoever.

Here s a link: https://www.amazon.com/CRC-Multi-Purpose-Lubricant-Corrosion-Inhibitor/dp/B00192EX10

I do still use Johnson s paste wax for lubrication purposes, on top of the CRC 3-36, but I ve found solely as a rust inhibitor it just doesn t work for me.

- jamsomito
 
#23 · (Edited by Moderator)
Thanks Dave. What is ROS ?

Best,

Lyman

I m another Johnson s Paste Wax guy. For rust I use a little WD-40 and a Scotchbrite pad. If the rust is a bit thick I ll use the ROS with the Scothbrite pad.

- DaveM123

- LGLDSR73
(Pinch hitting for Dave), He's referring to his random orbit sander.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top