Bottom bandsaw wheel JWBS - 18

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Forum topic by willhime posted 11-18-2020 11:57 PM 479 views 0 times favorited 5 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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175 posts in 2544 days

11-18-2020 11:57 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question resource tip trick bandsaw milling joining scrollworking

I have a rare model of the jet jwbs -18” bandsaw. Made in Taiwan it has 1.5 hp instead of the usual 1.75 for this size/model.

After my blade broke the other day resawing a 10’ 2×4 (very stupidly I was pushing it a little faster than the machine wanted to cut), I replaced with a new blade. I noticed no matter how much tension or tilt adjustment to the top wheel I did, the blade sits I little forward on the bottom wheel. Since the bottom wheel doesn’t have adjustment (I’m assuming) I’m considering using a grade 8 washer to shim it out 1/16-1/8”.

After rewatching snodgrass’ famous bandsaw video a couple times, I couldn’t find anything to help remedy this situation which is concerning to me given his point that the deepest part of the gullet should be in the center of the wheel, not the blade center on the center of the wheel. I can’t measure coplaner due to the construction of the machine- the housing for both wheels is proud of both of them.

The thing that gives me trepidation about just using the bandsaw as is (it runs fine for minutes on end now) is that the blade positioning being different will eventually stress the blade metal and brake it probably sending me to ER. A couple years back my router table had words with me after flush trimming the outer edge of a small round table top. When I told the nurse that i was a woodworker he looked at me like a motorcycle driver and had a ‘that checks out’ look on his face, before informing me that the vast majority of woodworker ER visits are bandsaw related.

1 – bottom wheel
2 – top wheel
3 – both wheels
4 – bottom wheel axel

-- Burn your fire for no witness

5 replies so far

View Rich's profile (online now)


6511 posts in 1595 days

#1 posted 11-19-2020 12:37 AM

The first photo is just fine. I wouldn’t mess with that at all. I know all about the Snodgrass recommendation, but where that’s riding on the tire is not a problem at all.

-- Half of what we read or hear about finishing is right. We just don’t know which half! — Bob Flexner

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1028 posts in 392 days

#2 posted 11-19-2020 12:47 AM

I haven’t watched the Snodgrass video in a long time, but co-planer is not nearly as important as having the gullets centered on the top wheel. Slightly out actually helps IME.

-- Darrel

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7686 posts in 3414 days

#3 posted 11-19-2020 01:50 AM

Leave it be as other suggested. It was working as it is, and will continue to work well. :)

-- Live to tell the stories, they sound better that way.

View Bstrom's profile


303 posts in 179 days

#4 posted 11-19-2020 02:06 AM

My recent riser mod has the 3/4” Timberwolf resaw blade riding at two different ‘locations’ on their wheels too. Well within the tire space available, I’m not worried but it did seem disconcerting at first. I let it work a good while to see that it would perform properly and it does. Not all in these middle class machines is perfect. Just keeping an eye out for potential mishaps with proper blade tightening and well made guide adjustments – which I agonize over for the sake of malfunction prevention – will serve you well.

-- Bstrom

View willhime's profile


175 posts in 2544 days

#5 posted 11-19-2020 07:35 AM

Ok. So then the bottom wheel from what I’ve gathered is ok to have the blade slightly forward I’m guessing shimming it with washers is not recommended despite the bottom seems about 1/8” closer to the mount then the top wheel.

I guess this is where drift comes into play since the blade, as it passes from the top to the bottom wheel, doesn’t match. Snodgrass mentioned that “a bandsaw should have zero drift when adjusting it properly.

Blade tension is tricky for me. I have a 1” blade on. When I tension the saw, the blade with indicator is well past the 1.5” blade setting but snodgrass also said that those indicators don’t mean much. As long as there’s an 1/8” side to side movement of the blade when tapped with my finger.

I’d like to upgrade the motor’s horsepower but I guess I’m going to have to do some digging to find one that’ll match the stock motor. I’ve been told grizzly has very good aftermarket bandsaw motors.

-- Burn your fire for no witness

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