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Advice needed on wardrobe doors

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Forum topic by denoria posted 11-12-2020 02:04 AM 404 views 1 time favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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denoria

5 posts in 116 days


11-12-2020 02:04 AM

Topic tags/keywords: question modern

Hello!

I work as a furniture designer in a company that designs and makes custom furniture. For the first time in five years I have been working in this position, the producers have told me they don’t know how to make something.

It’s a wardrobe with four doors. I intended to make the doors out of a veneer covered MDF and attach vertical slats on top of it. A door width is 440 mm (17.32 in) and height 2180 mm (85.83 in). The slats are 34 mm (1.34 in) wide and the space between the slats has the same value.

After consulting with the producer I understood that because of the tension in the material, the doors will start to bend and lose their shape. We couldn’t come up with any good alternative…

Do you have any good ideas how to make this kind of doors in a way that they will keep their shape?!

Here are some pictures from the 3D model and drawings:



PS. Since English is not my first language and I don’t have to talk about these kind of things in English a lot, there might be some odd words in my text :)

Thanks already in advance!


9 replies so far

View LeeRoyMan's profile

LeeRoyMan

1557 posts in 742 days


#1 posted 11-12-2020 02:13 AM

You need to put the same slats on the back of the door to balance it out.
If you could attach all the slats, and put the door in a press, that would be the ideal way to keep it flat while the glue is drying.

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SMP

3460 posts in 921 days


#2 posted 11-12-2020 02:54 AM

How thick is the MDF? How thick is the veneer? How thick are the slats?

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denoria

5 posts in 116 days


#3 posted 11-12-2020 08:23 AM

@LeeRoyMan Yes, I thought about this as well, but the thickness of the door will become pretty big… Around 36 mm (1.4 in). But I will consider it. Thanks!

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denoria

5 posts in 116 days


#4 posted 11-12-2020 08:26 AM

Actually no… I could make it 26 mm (1.02 in) and that would be fine

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denoria

5 posts in 116 days


#5 posted 11-12-2020 08:29 AM



How thick is the MDF? How thick is the veneer? How thick are the slats?

- SMP

MDF 16 mm (0.62 in) + the veneer perhaps 0.6 mm (0.02 in) + the slats 5-10 mm (0.19-0.39 in)

View CaptainKlutz's profile

CaptainKlutz

4183 posts in 2510 days


#6 posted 11-12-2020 08:53 AM

One detail missing is wood species.
Different species for slats might make the job harder/easier?

IMHO – Need a finite element model of design. :-)

What I would expect the model to show:
MDF can not resist the stress/strain created by slats and PVA glue n front. Will come out of glue press with curve, and/or it will bend unevenly when exposed to moisture.
: solution 1: Make panel stronger.
Use high ply count birch or birch/MDO veneered base panel with cross grain ply’s.
: solution 2: If you match the pattern on back as design feature, you match the stresses.
Alternatively, Add batten’s (cross braces) on back side counteract the expansion/contraction of front strips. Could likely use fewer strips on back to reduce mfg costs, with a wider width strip and less of them. For width of 440mm width, suggest ~80-100mm wide, every ~400mm across the back as starting point.

If I were making these panels; would use a 2 sided mold in a vacuum glue press, just like used on thermo-film covered entry doors. Probably using an IR or microwave activated PUR adhesive to minimize the amount of water introduced into that stack. Would want the hinge pockets machined before glue up, as standard hinge pocket machine wants flat surfaces. Will also need special consideration during finishing, with both sides sprayed wet at same time, and dried evenly to keep them flat. In order to keep the external moisture impact to minimum, would suggest a high build polyurethane top coat also.

All of the above represents a major change from the design, but can not think of any other way to make it work? Without a FEA model, the above is just a guess.

Best Luck.

-- If it wasn't for bad luck, I wouldn't have no luck at all, - Albert King - Born Under a Bad Sign released 1967

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LeeRoyMan

1557 posts in 742 days


#7 posted 11-12-2020 02:47 PM

Myself, I don’t see a problem with a 1 1/4” – 1 3/8” thick door.

Food for thought…
Another thing you could do, would be to re align the slats
so that you can make an end cap to give the doors the thicker appearance.
(And also at the hinge side so you get more meat for the hinges.)

Adding some U-Channels at the ends could also help keep the panels straight.

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denoria

5 posts in 116 days


#8 posted 11-12-2020 03:16 PM



Myself, I don t see a problem with a 1 1/4” – 1 3/8” thick door.

Food for thought…
Another thing you could do, would be to re align the slats
so that you can make an end cap to give the doors the thicker appearance.
(And also at the hinge side so you get more meat for the hinges.)

Adding some U-Channels at the ends could also help keep the panels straight.

- LeeRoyMan

Ohh, that could work! So simple and genius :D Thanks!

What do you think, would there be a problem if the slats are glued? Would it be better to fix them in some other way? Somebody recommended these thingies (no idea how they’re called in English):

View Loren's profile (online now)

Loren

11037 posts in 4663 days


#9 posted 11-12-2020 05:39 PM

You can buy door flattening hardware for large doors. Its a metal frame that fits on the back. If the door is thick enough some of the frames fit in grooves I think. The principle is similar to a truss rod in a guitar neck.

I saw the stuff in a Hafele catalog or similar.

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