Rockwell 14" Bandsaw + Grizzly Riser Upgrade

So, I’m waiting for the delivery and will report findings. In the end, this upgrade is just $155 and well below the riser kit for Rockwell/Delta’s at $238 – w/o a new blade.

Where are you finding the OEM Delta riser kit for $238?

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

eBay and other etailers sell them along with similar Jet riser kits – all cost more than the Grizzly kit.

-- Bstrom

eBay and other etailers sell them along with similar Jet riser kits – all cost more than the Grizzly kit.
- Bstrom

I’ve seen them for that price, but they are not OEM. BTW: It’s not that I want one – I wouldn’t run a riser on either of mine. It’s just that they haven’t been made for years and finding an OEM kit is like looking for hens teeth – they are very few and far between.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

You’re right but these other brands work with the needed mods. The kit I was referring to was a ‘made-for-Delta’ version with no need for the mods. Same parts but ready to install at a higher price. Don’t expect to see a true OEM kit ever again really.

Thankfully, my saw cuts very consistent thicknesses so am looking forward to the expanded cut height.

-- Bstrom

Received the kit and had to sort out a difference in my saw – no slots for removing or adding a longer bolt for the riser. It wasn’t an issue after I got my head wrapped around what was needed, so I got started and disassembled the saw. I created new pin location guides with some 3/4” Pine 3/4” hammered down onto the new riser and existing pins in the saw. Positioned them on their respective parts and drilled the pin holes needed on the drill press. Took a little ‘modding’ to make a fit but the metal is an alloy so not too tough to work with.

Got the parts ready and reassembly was pretty easy – and accurate enough to get the new blade to run just fine. Although the hardware is intended for a Grizzly saw, I was able to use all the parts they supplied. Also took the time to clean and lube all the adjusters and replace some fasteners with some upgraded hardware.

Set up the Timberwolf 3/4” X 3TPI blade (this is one scary looking blade!) and put everything into alignment. The cut is smoother than my recently acquired Wood Slicer as the photo will show. I have a full 12” throat capacity now which is ready to tackle some stock in my shelves.

All in all, about a 5 hour job start-to-finish with a very pleasing outcome, not to mention the added value it has provided in this tool.

-- Bstrom

Spent a few hours yesterday resawing some Cedar with the modded saw and had good results. If you hurry it, the saw bogs cutting a full 12” board (including several power strip breaker restarts), but handles a 10” board pretty well. Cut quality is good with the Timberwolf blade – I then planed these boards down to ~1/4” for clock panels. Narrower board widths would probably cut cleaner and be able to sand finish.

Like any tool, removing the guard panels and cleaning out the cavities, as well as air spraying the guide assemblies, will be a regular chore each time it is used. Total upgrade cost of the Grizzly riser kit, Timberwolf blade and a little hardware was just $137 – a worthwhile investment.

-- Bstrom

I like your post. I also have a older Rockwell/Delta band saw that I am trying to do this to. I called Grizzly and didn’t get much help. My guide post is a 7/8 hex post, and they told me they didn’t make a hex post anymore. The kit you used is a round post but they couldn’t tell me the diameter of the one in your kit. I think I can make one work i it is 7/8 diameter and has a flat side. Thanks for any help you can give me.

As you can see, the parts work in spite of their different shapes and sizes. My saw performs great with that kit installed. I also installed their fence for 14” Bandsaws today and it is pretty decent as an alternative to the OEM fence. Had to do some hardware swapping to mount it – I’ll be writing a review here in a bit on a separate post.

c

-- Bstrom

I also have the Delta and did mine some yrs back with the Grizzly kit. The fence is the Grizzly also for the 14” ? I have got to check that out!!!!! Have a part # for the fence? Thanks in advance!

-- Mike,North Carolina

Grizzly H7587 Resaw Fence Complete $204 shipped direct from Grizzly

you can also get just the fence for about $25 cheaper so be sure to get the Complete kit for the conversion.

-- Bstrom

Thanks for you help ordering my kit now

Received the kit and had to sort out a difference in my saw – no slots for removing or adding a longer bolt for the riser. It wasn’t an issue after I got my head wrapped around what was needed, so I got started and disassembled the saw. I created new pin location guides with some 3/4” Pine 3/4” hammered down onto the new riser and existing pins in the saw. Positioned them on their respective parts and drilled the pin holes needed on the drill press. Took a little ‘modding’ to make a fit but the metal is an alloy so not too tough to work with.

Got the parts ready and reassembly was pretty easy – and accurate enough to get the new blade to run just fine. Although the hardware is intended for a Grizzly saw, I was able to use all the parts they supplied. Also took the time to clean and lube all the adjusters and replace some fasteners with some upgraded hardware.

Set up the Timberwolf 3/4” X 3TPI blade (this is one scary looking blade!) and put everything into alignment. The cut is smoother than my recently acquired Wood Slicer as the photo will show. I have a full 12” throat capacity now which is ready to tackle some stock in my shelves.

All in all, about a 5 hour job start-to-finish with a very pleasing outcome, not to mention the added value it has provided in this tool.

- Bstrom

I have the same issue with my saw (no slots for longer bolt). It looks like you made a slot in the base. True?
Was thinking I could just machine a riser from aluminum and thread the top and bottom.

Received the kit and had to sort out a difference in my saw – no slots for removing or adding a longer bolt for the riser. It wasn’t an issue after I got my head wrapped around what was needed, so I got started and disassembled the saw. I created new pin location guides with some 3/4” Pine 3/4” hammered down onto the new riser and existing pins in the saw. Positioned them on their respective parts and drilled the pin holes needed on the drill press. Took a little ‘modding’ to make a fit but the metal is an alloy so not too tough to work with.

Got the parts ready and reassembly was pretty easy – and accurate enough to get the new blade to run just fine. Although the hardware is intended for a Grizzly saw, I was able to use all the parts they supplied. Also took the time to clean and lube all the adjusters and replace some fasteners with some upgraded hardware.

Set up the Timberwolf 3/4” X 3TPI blade (this is one scary looking blade!) and put everything into alignment. The cut is smoother than my recently acquired Wood Slicer as the photo will show. I have a full 12” throat capacity now which is ready to tackle some stock in my shelves.

All in all, about a 5 hour job start-to-finish with a very pleasing outcome, not to mention the added value it has provided in this tool.

- Bstrom

I have the same issue with my saw (no slots for longer bolt). It looks like you made a slot in the base. True?
Was thinking I could just machine a riser from aluminum and thread the top and bottom.

- jimrk

I made a slot but technically didn’t need it as the bolt will slip through there base hole – if you get someone to help you juggle all the parts! Once assembled (with new pin location holes drilled too) it works out great. I added a thin sheet of rubber between the riser and saw surfaces to minimize vibration. Don’t know if it’s actually doing so but I feel better about it…

PS: I’ve got to upgrade the 1/3hp motor to get any power to go through those wide boards, so be prepared for a long slow resaw experience with the stock motor.

-- Bstrom

I thought the longer bolt ‘might’ be snaked in. Thanks for the info

You ‘jiggy’ the bolt head into the upper arm opening (be sure to get it to seat well) and then you can ‘drop’ the bolt through the riser and base hole. I used a washer top and bottom and a lock washer under the nut. Try to line the guide head up as you tighten – here’s how I did I mine:

1) The Grizzly guide post will be super loose, so put it in before doing the riser assembly and snug it up in to the groove so you have a reference for alignment.
2) Install a blade and finesse your top and bottom alignment settings prior to final tightening on the riser. You kinda have to do everything at once to get the parts to cooperate.
3) Square up your bed to the blade and check the blade tension and rotate manually before powering up. It should turn very easily with no catch points or friction.

-- Bstrom