Best table saw fence material?

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Forum topic by Kylemcle1 posted 11-09-2020 04:18 AM 641 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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5 posts in 828 days

11-09-2020 04:18 AM

Topic tags/keywords: question tablesaw

Hi all, I have a late model Grizzly table saw (G0691) and I find the plastic material on the fence to be very “wavy” which isn’t ideal. I even took it off and just used the steel a time or two. I’ve found that straightening it with tape shims or other materials is very frustrating. Is there any material that can be used to replace this? Does Baltic Birch work well in this case? Thanks

10 replies so far

View EugdOT's profile


332 posts in 1720 days

#1 posted 11-09-2020 04:26 AM

Replace it with some 80/20 tslot extrusion instead then you can add jigs to it at anytime

View therealSteveN's profile


8267 posts in 1739 days

#2 posted 11-09-2020 10:01 AM

Baltic Birch is a good one, MDF can work as long as it’s well supported.

I agree that plastics get wavy, especially if it gets warm/hot. I don’t like it for saw slot runners either.

The mentioned 80/20 will work for true, and does allow you to hang jigs, just make sure not to get sacrificial with it, Expensive mistake, and scare ya to death I would imagine.

I have heard of people keeping the wavy gravy, and just shimming out the low spots. I think that sounds like a job that might not ever end.

-- Think safe, be safe

View Kylemcle1's profile


5 posts in 828 days

#3 posted 11-09-2020 12:03 PM

Both good replies. I never thought of using extrusion against the fence, but I’ll look at some pictures to get ideas. Thanks

View Ruscal's profile


107 posts in 343 days

#4 posted 11-09-2020 01:53 PM

The “plastic” is probably King Starboard. It’s used quite a bit in marine applications. I ran mine through my planer to freshen it up. You could do the same thing with a drum sander.

-- Have a hobby? You should have a business.

View Robert's profile


4643 posts in 2645 days

#5 posted 11-09-2020 02:24 PM

I used a laminated piece of countertop I had left over. I simply double stick taped it directly to the metal.

So far, it works well. I made it 4” high and the part above the existing fence is handy for clamping on a hold down, stop, etc.

The problem I have with wood, melamine, etc is over time it will wear. Minor issue, and that said, its easily replaceable.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

View Aj2's profile


3955 posts in 2963 days

#6 posted 11-09-2020 03:19 PM

Is it really the material on the fence or is the fence wavy. Another reason to have a reliable straight edge to check what’s what.

Good Luck

-- Aj

View splintergroup's profile


5484 posts in 2387 days

#7 posted 11-09-2020 03:39 PM

The 80/20 would be great against the steel tube. you can then hang all sorts of goodies in the future.
For a good fence surface, 3/4 melamine is excellent as the surface is flat and slick. With a 4×8 sheet of the melamine and the “T” slot you could make a huge number of faces that could be swapped out.

Alternatively, the BB plywood (really too soft on its own) would be a great substrate for a formica laminate applied with contact cement.

View HokieKen's profile


18475 posts in 2303 days

#8 posted 11-09-2020 03:47 PM

I just use the steel. Doesn’t work if you cut rabbets on your tablesaw but I don’t.

-- I collect hobbies. There is no sense in limiting yourself (Don W) - - - - - - - - Kenny in SW VA

View Davevand's profile


276 posts in 2001 days

#9 posted 11-09-2020 04:58 PM

This is what I replaced my plastic with, mine dished out about 3-4 inches in front and behind the blade.

View therealSteveN's profile


8267 posts in 1739 days

#10 posted 11-09-2020 06:16 PM

This is what I replaced my plastic with, mine dished out about 3-4 inches in front and behind the blade.

- Davevand

For 3” tall by 1 1/2” thick x 48” that is probably going to be lower priced than the 80/20 stuff @ $56.56

Probably only need 36” for the job, this one may be a better bet. $44.99

-- Think safe, be safe

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