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Forum topic by Andybb posted 10-29-2020 05:44 PM 316 views 0 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Andybb

2939 posts in 1517 days


10-29-2020 05:44 PM

Topic tags/keywords: veneering tablesaw router

I am making a veneered cremation container and it has been suggested that I apply molding to the corners using a dado blade or a router, but I can’t for the life of me figure out how to do that. Do I need to make a jig to hold the box at a 45-degree angle? I know it must be something simple that I just have a mental block about.

Like this box by @RogerBean

Thanks in advance.

-- Andy - Seattle USA


7 replies so far

View Richard Lee's profile

Richard Lee

322 posts in 1689 days


#1 posted 10-29-2020 05:45 PM

Yes a Jig, but man thats nice just the way it is !!!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=23wMCOLPX58
Something like this.

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Andybb

2939 posts in 1517 days


#2 posted 10-29-2020 05:59 PM



Yes a Jig, but man thats nice just the way it is !!!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=23wMCOLPX58
Something like this.

- Richard Lee

Thanks but that’s not my box. It’s the result I’m trying to achieve. I’m just nervous about running veneer over the spinning death machines after I’ve built (I hope) a perfect box.

-- Andy - Seattle USA

View Madmark2's profile

Madmark2

1813 posts in 1502 days


#3 posted 10-29-2020 06:05 PM

Leave well enough alone unless the customer insists.

A sacrificial fence on the TS will do that. Set the blade exposure and height to be exactly the same (or make two passes) and cut both sides to form a square recess. Once all edges have been done fill with square stock.

Ideally this should have been done before the veneer as if done after you can’t sand the edges.

Alternatively the veneer could have just been cut undersized to allow the natural wood to show at the edges.

-- The hump with the stump and the pump!

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Loren

10785 posts in 4561 days


#4 posted 10-29-2020 06:25 PM

That’s basically guitar binding. It will take some time but being straight makes it much easier. It helps when making the binding to have a thickness sander. You can also buy guitar binding, even plastic stuff.

You’d rout the edge using a rabbet bit with a bearing set to perhaps 3/16” depth. These bits are not necessarily cheap.

The binding makes the corners more durable. The veneer can be scored with a guitar maker’s purfling cutter or gramil prior to routing.

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Andybb

2939 posts in 1517 days


#5 posted 10-29-2020 07:31 PM


Leave well enough alone unless the customer insists.

A sacrificial fence on the TS will do that. Set the blade exposure and height to be exactly the same (or make two passes) and cut both sides to form a square recess. Once all edges have been done fill with square stock.

Ideally this should have been done before the veneer as if done after you can t sand the edges.

Alternatively the veneer could have just been cut undersized to allow the natural wood to show at the edges.

- Madmark2

Well, the customer is dead so it’s gonna be hard for her to insist on anything. :-)

I haven’t applied the veneer yet but I’m gonna be apoplectic if I ruin it! It’s not like it’s gonna be handled a lot as it’s going in a crypt.

I’m just trying to imagine how I’d use a dado blade for that, but a jig would work I think.


That s basically guitar binding. It will take some time but being straight makes it much easier. It helps when making the binding to have a thickness sander. You can also buy guitar binding, even plastic stuff.

You d rout the edge using a rabbet bit with a bearing set to perhaps 3/16” depth. These bits are not necessarily cheap.

The binding makes the corners more durable. The veneer can be scored with a guitar maker s purfling cutter or gramil prior to routing.

- Loren

Don’t want to spend”not cheap” $ on a bit and since I d’ve never even heard of a “guitar maker s purfling cutter or gramil” is I know I don’t have either of those.

Maybe I’ll just see how clean a corner I can get before I get creative. Like i said, it’s going in a crypt, not a mantle and thus should be safe until the second coming.

-- Andy - Seattle USA

View Jim Jakosh's profile

Jim Jakosh

25479 posts in 4019 days


#6 posted 10-29-2020 07:44 PM

I think you might be talking about a spine in the corners. fo that you would make a V block to set a box in to slide across the blade at a very shallow depth and then insert a contrasting piece of wood. But, for that box, it is so beautiful the way it is and if the corners are glued really good, I’d not touch it with splines.

I see that is not the box you are making so you could put splines in the corners ,sand it smooth and then veneer it if you worried bout strength and it come out looking like the one pictured.

Cheers, Jim.

-- Jim Jakosh.....Practical Wood Products...........Learn something new every day!! Variety is the Spice of Life!!

View wildwoodbybrianjohns's profile

wildwoodbybrianjohns

2212 posts in 461 days


#7 posted 10-29-2020 09:11 PM

If you are talking about doing something like this, then it is really quite simple. I cut the channel for these edge details using an FTG blade on tablesaw. Of course, you would have to calculate for the thickness of the veneer, leaving the banding proud by that much.

But on the sample box you posted, the corners where the banding meets are mitred, so I imagine he used a shooting board to get down to exact fit.

-- Wildwood by Brian Johns: The Big Bang: Nothing - exploded into Everything. Thanks to Nothing.

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