After scoring a 1972 Rockwell/Delta 14" bandsaw for just $100 this past weekend, I decided to treat it to a new resaw blade. Reviews suggest the Highland Wood Slicer would be a wise choice. Ordered yesterday. Came in today. Can't fault the customer service. Will mount the new blade and see if it is an improvement and report my findings with some comparative photos.
Best is tricky to answer accurately for different people, but I've used several of that blade for some very fine resawing and it does leave a very nice finish and has a thin kerf. A bit on the expensive side, but not terrible.
Still, it dulls like other blades and then starts to wander which doesn't do well with tall resawing jobs.
I'd say that it would be a great choice for resawing where you need to preserve the most stock as you can and if you want a fine surface off the saw. If you're looking to do a ton of resawing or use some exotics, a carbide blade might be a better investment.
If you're willing to replace it when it shown signs of dulling, you'll be very happy with it.
For the work I do now, which is working with log sections for turning with bark and wet wood, I like a blade with a wider set and use a Timberwolf that eats up the logs.
It's easily the top non-carbide-tipped blade out there based on my experience. The best by far is the Laguna ReSaw King carbide blade. While the $150 price tag might give you sticker shock, the fact that it can be resharpened four times at around $40 a pop makes it far more economical than it might appear at first glance. You're essentially getting five blades for $310. Also, keep an eye on eBay. Laguna sells them there and I've paid as little as $125 with free shipping. Gotta watch for the deals though.
When you're spending good money for quality blades, a worthwhile investment is a spliciing jig and some silver solder for those breaks that always seem to happen at the worst time. Lee Valley sells a kit for $34.50, which is enough to get you free shipping. They also sell extra silver solder and flux, although if you have a local jeweler supply dealer you can get it there too.
Be careful not to over-tension the blade to reduce breakage. They tend to start in the gullet between the teeth, and if you see the blade thrusting forward as it's running, that's a sign it's starting to fail.
It s easily the top non-carbide-tipped blade out there based on my experience. The best by far is the Laguna ReSaw King carbide blade. While the $150 price tag might give you sticker shock, the fact that it can be resharpened four times at around $40 a pop makes it far more economical than it might appear at first glance. You re essentially getting five blades for $310. Also, keep an eye on eBay. Laguna sells them there and I ve paid as little as $125 with free shipping. Gotta watch for the deals though.
When you re spending good money for quality blades, a worthwhile investment is a spliciing jig and some silver solder for those breaks that always seem to happen at the worst time. Lee Valley sells a kit for $34.50, which is enough to get you free shipping. They also sell extra silver solder and flux, although if you have a local jeweler supply dealer you can get it there too.
Be careful not to over-tension the blade to reduce breakage. They tend to start in the gullet between the teeth, and if you see the blade thrusting forward as it s running, that s a sign it s starting to fail.
Appreciate all the comments and warnings - you are on the money for this blade as a top value, Rick - until it dulls, of course. Just got done mounting it and it cuts like a hot knife through butter in some Ash I tested it with. Thankfully, my newly acquired saw is in excellent shape and adjusts out to being perfectly square with all the guide properly set against the blade. The saw has a tension scale on the back side which I used to tension this blade and it behaves perfectly. Best tool buy ever…
I hear you - don't expect this blade to last forever but it will save me a lot of time and effort in eliminating additional planing and provide faster sanding sessions - that's worth money to me, even as a hobbyist. Looks like you're cutting much wider stock which is gonna make a difference.
It's a great blade. My experience was it didn't stay sharp long.
A lot of people may not know you can send standard steel resaw blades out for sharpening. Not with this one. The variable pitch doesn't work on the machines sharpening shops use.
It would be a great blade for cutting veneer or guitar plates from precious woods but for everyday resawing other blades may offer more bang for the buck.
I went through three of these Highlander blade (16" 3.5 HP) and they do cut superbly when fresh. With the last one, I took as much care as possible to avoid re-sawing hard woods since that was what I thought killed the first two in short order. Basically a fine blade with smooth cuts and short life.
I'm currently on the Laguna RK (carbide) and I feed it everything. So far, so good!
It s easily the top non-carbide-tipped blade out there based on my experience. The best by far is the Laguna ReSaw King carbide blade. While the $150 price tag might give you sticker shock, the fact that it can be resharpened four times at around $40 a pop makes it far more economical than it might appear at first glance. You re essentially getting five blades for $310. Also, keep an eye on eBay. Laguna sells them there and I ve paid as little as $125 with free shipping. Gotta watch for the deals though.
When you re spending good money for quality blades, a worthwhile investment is a spliciing jig and some silver solder for those breaks that always seem to happen at the worst time. Lee Valley sells a kit for $34.50, which is enough to get you free shipping. They also sell extra silver solder and flux, although if you have a local jeweler supply dealer you can get it there too.
Be careful not to over-tension the blade to reduce breakage. They tend to start in the gullet between the teeth, and if you see the blade thrusting forward as it s running, that s a sign it s starting to fail.
I'm with the others, the wood Slicer is a great blade when sharp but it doesn't stay sharp very long. Thanks for the tip and insight on the Laguna Blade. When you add in that it can be sharpened it takes away the sticker shock.
I might point out that steel band saw blades are just that-saw blades. Just as you can sharpen your dovetail or carcass saw, with the right files, the right technique, and lots of patience, you can sharpen one yourself in the shop.
Have I ever done that? Heck no (did I mention the patience part?). But you could.
I find the comments about the Wood Slicer's short life interesting. I experienced the same thing. Since I was resawing mesquite, which is very gritty due to the environment it grows in, I had assumed it was just that steel blades couldn't stand up to it. I guess it wasn't just me.
The blade I keep on my saw for general cutting is the Starrett Advanz. It's razor sharp, but pricier than the Laguna.
Completely on the opposite side of the world, I have been having splendid luck with the Starrett's sold at WoodCraft, they call them Duratech. Really low cost to get in, and I'm finding they last at least as long as The Woodslicer, which I felt came about half dull by my experience. They are frequently on sale at least 10% off, sometimes 15%. I stock up then. I can only rate the Woodslicers I tried, versus the Starrett's, the welds on the Starrett's are far superior, and a poor weld is a bad blade.I realize you can dress a bad weld, but why should you have to?
This is a good discussion. I have the wood slicer, I did not know that my blade is dull. It has not resawed well for some time. It's time to look into the Laguna.
Woodslicers are my favorite because they give a really nice finish on my saw. As others have said though, the longevity leaves something to be desired. However, replacing the blade more often is a trade I'm willing to make for the results I get personally. However I don't resaw all that much so bear that in mind. If I did significantly more resawing, I'd definitely invest in a carbide blade.
I'm surprised the Timber Wolf hasn't been mentioned. As far as the Woodcraft lineup goes, it is the "premium" blade versus Starrett. Cuts beautifully, lasted longer than the Wood Slicer, but still didn't stand up to the woods I cut well enough for my needs.
Woodslicers are my favorite because they give a really nice finish on my saw. As others have said though, the longevity leaves something to be desired. However, replacing the blade more often is a trade I m willing to make for the results I get personally. However I don t resaw all that much so bear that in mind. If I did significantly more resawing, I d definitely invest in a carbide blade.
I've cut one piece of wood and love the cut quality already. No more planing!
As far as blade life goes, I'm in the same boat - if this blade lasts me six months or longer, I'll buy a new one. Sharpening fees are just less money to spend on new tooling as far as I'm concerned. Not even sure anyone around here sharpens these blades. (I really expect it to last a long while with the infrequent use I intend)
+1 Timberwolf over Woodslicer in my shop.
Even the Lenox bi-metal is better value than Woodslicer.
Had one Woodslicer, after 2nd Bubinga board needed 2x more pressure to keep cutting than when new and not cutting straight. Lasted only 2-1/2 boards before I replaced it. That is a very poor value.
Put on a used Timberwolf 2-3VP and finished the other boards with ease. The same Timberwolf blade resaw'd stack of aromatic cedar before it was gummed and too dull to use for fine finish on next cherry project.
Later used the same Woodslicer on some poplar, and it cut OK. Not as smooth or as straight as new; but I got another 100ft of cut from the blade, before it went in to steel recycling pile.
IMHO - if all you cut is soft species of domestic wood, then blade choice is much more flexible; and you might think a Woodslicer is great. Not in my shop, Woodslicer is a bad choice. If you cut hard exotic woods, then you need much tougher blade.
+1 Rich; if you resaw a lot: go with carbide.
But even carbide may not be best VALUE for everyone.
Bought a resaw king for use on a mesquite project. Also used it on some rosewood, and eucalyptus; two more very dense woods. Worked well till I ruined it. #IAMAKLUTZ. I knocked couple teeth off swapping blades from the saw a third time. Hence, if you change blades a lot; you might not get the expected lifetime from carbide either. :-(
Have since been using Timberwolf and Lenox bimetal blade(s) for resaw. Lasts longer than any other except the carbide, ignoring risk of missing teeth. With my limited amount of resaw per month, they last many projects. Despite the higher price, they represent the best value for my use. Plus it saves having to change blades in middle of stack of boards. I hate changing blades.
PS - Another variable in your band saw blade VALUE equation:
where do you buy blades and how many at once?
My 17" Grizzly uses a 131-1/2" blade size not carried by any local wood working store. I have to order custom made to length blades. Takes me a week to get an order from Timberwolf, or hour drive one way across town to have them custom made Lennox by local blade shop while I wait. I.E. I don't have any 'discount' blade sources.
If I need a 93-1/2 blade for standard 14" saw, you can buy those most anywhere; sometimes on sale, and even the BORG. (Don't do it; cough, cough, dull out of the package.)
This is my first brandy new blade buy so I'll be learning from here on out as to what works and what works better. Don't cut exotic woods (can't afford them!), don't resaw that often, and am fairly fanatical about keeping the saw properly tuned beforehand (based on miserable results in the past). The only drama I experience is what I create myself - the tools have been better performers than I have in the shop.
I've read that Lennox makes good blades - was never to impressed with their hand tool blades but will consider theirs if the Slicer doesn't impress me. Based on Rich and Cap, bimetal blades appear to be the minimum performers for the long haul. I'll look at those if the Slicer doesn't impress….
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