I'm upgrading from a small Shopsmith bandsaw to a larger more powerful saw. I have a Grizzly 8" Helical Head Jointer and I'm very happy with it. They have (2) models of 17" bandsaws I was considering. One is the 2HP 17" Anniversary Model G0513ANV for $1075 and the other is the 2HP 17" G0513 for $995.
Does anyone have any experience with or opinions on either of these saws? Or any recommendations on another brand with comparable features in this price range? I'm not stuck on a Grizzly but have had great experience with my jointer.
Any advice, opinions or recommendations is appreciated.
I have had the Grizzly G0513X2BF for apx 5 years now and have been very pleased with the construction quality and the performance. The only thing I would change would be the foot brake, really not needed as the motor brake works plenty fast enough.
While it can handle a smaller blade for various types of work, I have a 1 inch blade installed that I use for resawing and that is really all I use this saw for. My 10" handles nearly all of the other work. Good luck on your quest.
As Blindhog, I also have the Grizzly G0513X2BF, and I also agree the foot brake is not really needed. I've had this saw about 5 years, and think the cost was around $1,100. I have a 1/2" blade (can't recall the make, but not the original) and the saw is really precise, in fact yesterday, was the first I resawed anything: a piece of 1-1/2" cherry about 2" long, resawed to a shy 3/4". Did a great job, in spite of not having a resaw fence.
The saw has cast iron wheels and cast iron trunnions. I would buy it again in a heartbeat.
I too have had a Grizzly 17" saw for several years and it performs great. The foot brake is a nice idea but in an emergency I doubt you could get to it any faster than the stop button on the controls.
The guide bearings work well but the lower one is awkward to adjust when changing blade sizes and the bearings are "cheap" chinese" types that I had to replace after about 3 years….they are a standard size and readily available. They may have changed the bearing adjustments on newer models???
One small draw back is the size of the blade, 131 1/2" which is not common so you have to buy from Grizzly or order custom made. There is no added expense it is just that you can't go to the local store and buy one. I get most of mine from a local saw sharpening shop who makes them up in a couple of days and right away if he is not busy.
Have the G0513 band saw.
Picked mine up used from original owner's estate for half of new price, was ~9 years old. Had to replace the wheel bearings about month after I got it as the were noisy, and replaced tires while I had the wheels off, as they had deep grooves from PO using mostly narrow blades.
The lack of cast iron wheels .vs. aluminum on base models does not seem to make much difference with 2HP motor to me? It has never had any issue. Have re-sawing some 10" high tough as nails Tigerwood. Even ripping knotty cedar didn't cause any slow down or jerking to due lack of wheel mass. Friend has the G01513X2 with cast iron wheels and biggest difference I see is aluminum wheels slow down faster?
I like the euro style disc glides on G0513. They require less maintenance than ball bearing guides on G0513X2 or G01513X2BF models. My buddy with G01513X2 keeps a can of spray bearing cleaner/oil as this lower ball bearings junk up quickly with softwoods. Setting up the G0513 guides on < 1/4" blade requires some patience, as the guides don't have micro-adjustment wheel like my smaller 14" band saw. IME - suggest all large saws are better suited for large blade widths (greater than 1/4"), even though they can run smaller.
The only minor weak spot I have found with G0513 (base model) is the stamped steel table mounting trunions. If you toss a long hunk of 8/4 Tigerwood or some other heavy green log on table abruptly; can see it vibrate. Never feel the table moving during use, but my 'over engineer everything' brain wishes mine had the cast iron trunions? IMHO - having the beefier cast iron trunions would be important if you tilt the table, or use heavy circle jig mounted to table? But then I can not remember the last time I tilted the table on my band saws?
The dust collection is like most band saws with open area below table. The guides can knock off some swarf and it ends on on floor. When I first used the G0513 had a single 4 hose, split into (2) 4in ports. Recently changed to 5" main hose split into (2) 4" ports and eliminated the dust on floor. The table insert on the G513 is perforated with holes to help keep dust off the table. They seem to help, but they are delicate? Have had to replace mine twice due #IAMAKLUTZ, and Arizona heat & low RH makes plastic fragile after awhile.
Bruce, I too am in the market for a bandsaw (my very first one) and I'm leaning towards Grizzly as well. Here are some specs on three different models I'm considering;
Model # G0555xh G0457 G0513
Price (+129 shipping) $1075 $1150 $995
Size 14" 14" 17"
HP 1.75 2 2
Speed (fpm) 3000 3000 1700/3500
Wheels Mat. Cast Iron Cast Iron Cast Aluminum
Table size 21-3/4×16-1/8 19.75×14 17×17
Max Blade width ¾ ¾ 1
Cutting width 13.5 13.5 16.25
Cutting height 12 10 12
Frame/body Cast Iron Welded steel Welded steel?
I'm sharing this hoping to get some feedback from others on some of these specs such as; Cast Iron vs. Cast Aluminum wheels, Cast Iron vs. Welded Steel Frame/body, 2 speeds vs. 1 speed, etc… I see that you're considering two different 17" models but the same questions should apply and hopefully the feedback will help us both make an informed decision. Good luck with your choice.
I can't say about a Griz BS, I bought a Rikon because it was 1000 bux off when I bought mine, but I have been tickled to pieces with my Jointer, Planer, Dust Collector, and 2 Air cleaners all gotten over the last few years from Griz.
Update
WOW went and looked at BS's and that G0513ANV is looking like Santa loaded it himself. That reminds me of the deal on my 18" 2 1/2 hp Rikon. I just couldn't say no. 1075.00 and free shipping, winner winner chickun dinner….
I have the griz 17" with iron wheels and no break. A tough unit. I have resawed, done fine work and actually use it for cutting tails on dovetail joints (you want them square to the face and straight, so why not a bandsaw with a wide blade?).
I think it is a great balance of size/power/price. My only complaint is the amount of time it takes to change from a wide blade to a narrow one (if you take the time to re-align all the guides). They are not quick release and a bit awkward to get to. But I would buy it again because it performs above its price point.
I'm sharing this hoping to get some feedback from others on some of these specs such as; Cast Iron vs. Cast Aluminum wheels, Cast Iron vs. Welded Steel Frame/body, 2 speeds vs. 1 speed, etc… I see that you're considering two different 17" models but the same questions should apply and hopefully the feedback will help us both make an informed decision. Good luck with your choice.
I think the steel body BS is able to be tensioned to a much higher setting than any of the cast iron ones which is really good for the wider blades. As for the 1 speed versus 2, I can't say that I've ever had 2 speeds, but I've only had 2 bandsaws….so what do I know? I do know I've never wished for a different speed, tho'. Wheels, well we are collectively a lot like Tim Taylor….more of anything is good, and so it is with the weight of cast iron; but look at Klutz's input; he can't tell the difference and I'm not sure I can either. Intuitively, it seems like the extra weight would have some advantage in tough cutting (a flywheel effect) and dampening vibrations, generally run smoother.
I think it is a great balance of size/power/price. My only complaint is the amount of time it takes to change from a wide blade to a narrow one (if you take the time to re-align all the guides). They are not quick release and a bit awkward to get to. But I would buy it again because it performs above its price point.
Speed may change with number of times ya do it. but any blade change is a PIA for the most part, it's back to the drawing board trying to dial it in tension wise for optimal, getting whatever guides you have adjusted just so. It's just a lot more points than say a TS blade, so while doing it, it does kinda suck.
Room and $$$$$ if you have a bit of both can get you the happiest marriage for a woodworker. Get your big old resaw BS with that big wide blade for the resaw. Then get a Delta 14" or one of the many clones.
I have the lowly HF 14" BS, and I love it. Of course mine has more Delta, and Carter jewelry than most would, but I just use it for curves, mainly tight curves. For guides I have the Carter sports steering. Alex did his work, and sold me on the Carter Band Saw Stabilizer
You only want to use it on small blades, but after the Stabilizer is on, all you do is stretch the blade on, and tighten it up. No guides to adjust, because it rolls off the front roller wheel. It can make turns as tight as the blades can tolerate.
It's 2 bandsaws, but for the most part, the only changes I need to make now is if I go to the universal 1/4" blade for something, I do occasionally, but usually I try to figure out how to do it with a small blade, or a big one. I have never been so happy with my "bandsaw" as I am now.
Carter also has a huge line of standard bearings, and rollers, and block models of guides to bring even the oldest of bandsaws out of the dark ages, and get them sporting new type guides. No longer do you have to wonder what it would be like to adjust your BS like folks do with the new types of guides. Carter covers a lot of territory.
Room and $$$$$ if you have a bit of both can get you the happiest marriage for a woodworker. Get your big old resaw BS with that big wide blade for the resaw. Then get a Delta 14" or one of the many clones.
I also have the 0513×2bf, great saw! I have been using timberwolf blades with very good results, just resawed a some 8 inch ipe, cut great. As said its a little slow on blade changes but not bad.
Actually, I have three, the Grizz 513X2bf, a Jet 14" and a Craftsman 12" (I think, it is floor standing). The Craftsman has a 1/8" blade on it, for scroll type sawing-came home with me after my dad passed in 2004. The Jet was bought maybe in 2000 or so, has upgraded bearings, fence and other stuff, with a top blade and used for most bandsaw stuff. The Grizz is bone stock, except for a Woodslicer blade, and the Grizz is a joy to use.
I have the G0513×2 since 2011 . I've replaced both tires, which is really hard in the winter. I have thought it would nice to have the brake since it seems to take 2 minutes to stop when switched off. The guides are hard to adjust since they move when I tighten the screws. I think that is because the hole they fit in is sloppy. But overall I really like it. Possibly later ones are less sloppy in the guides. It was several years before I figured out that I had to move the main trunnion mount to center the lower guides.
We have a G0513ANV and it's about a year old now. At the time the anniversary model was cheaper than the standard version.
We're happy with the saw. Grizzly gave attention to small but important features like brushes on the lower wheels to wipe off dust.
Biggest complaint is that the cheap, plastic knob for the table lock stripped out and needs to be replaced. The threads in the saw are fine so it's not a big deal.
I like the Euro blade guides than roller bearing guides but still prefer simple steel blocks.
The Grizzly's ceramic guides are not perfectly machined so there is some wobble as they rotate. Stationary steel guide blocks don't have that issue. I chose this saw for our shop because it's one of the few that does not have roller bearings for blade guides. Someday, I'll probably replace the ceramic guides with steel bar stock.
Thanks so much for the replies and for providing so many details in your responses. I've decided to order the 17" Anniversary model. I'm ordering it today.
So it too have a GO513X2. Going on 4 years now and love it. I went with the X2 over the lesser models to get the added bells and whistles. Mainly cast iron parts over the steel or aluminum parts.
And the X2 has the tall resaw fence.
I looked at the anniversary saw, and adding aftermarket upgrades down the road. Like a better fence. Was cheaper in the long run to get the X2. But that was to get features I wanted. I opted not to get the foot brake model. Sometimes I wish I had it. But ok without it. It does take a full 45 seconds for my blade to come to a complete stop.
I agree with others about the lower guide adjustment being a pain. And while I have not worn out the bearings, I am planning on a Carter Guide upgrade in the next month. Christmas present to me. Lol.
Oh I have also used blades from. 1/4", up to 3/4". All have worked great.
I also have my blades made locally for around $18 each.
Good luck.
I agree with others about the lower guide adjustment being a pain. And while I have not worn out the bearings, I am planning on a Carter Guide upgrade in the next month. Christmas present to me. Lol.
bigJohninvegas
Wow, $265 bearing guide upgrade for bearings is a great Xmas present. My bearings did not so much "wear" out as they were infiltrated by sawdust and went dry and noisy. The seals were not good and the grease in them was minimal…as I have found in other cheap bearings. I think my Japanese made replacements cost $60.
I started this thread and had decided to go with the 2HP 17" Anniversary Model G0513ANV. But COVID got in the way and I didn't get it ordered. A few weeks ago the 14" Powermatic PWBS-14CS came on sale $1169 with free shipping. I ordered it instead of the Grizzly but just received an email that it's on back order until February 2021. I have a Grizzly helical jointer and like it. I have a Powermatic 15" helical planer and like it. I'm not in a bind to need either bandsaw immediately. What are the opinions on whether or not the Powermatic is worth waiting for until February? It's so difficult to compare equipment with just a spec sheet.
I used either the PWBS-14CS or something very similar at Marc Adams school. Other than the roller bearing blade guides (square blocks are easier to setup, slower to wear and never seize up) it's a nice 14" saw.
The 17" Grizzly is way more saw for less money. A 1" blade backed by 2HP allows for much faster feedrates while resawing.
The big question is what do you need your saw to do?
While Powermatic makes good tools. That saw does not compare too the Grizzly you were looking at.
I had a 1.5hp saw, and found it underpowered when trying to cut anything more than 8/4.
But I also wish I had kept that saw just to have a dedicated 1/4" blade for the smaller work.
It seems the Grizzly saws are in stock too.
But again, I think it will be a fine saw if it fits your needs.
I'm a little impatient though when it comes to long backorders. Lol.
And don't bet you can get the griz any faster. I have walked out on new griz machines because when I tried to order, they were always on backorder. The power switch turns off the power, as does the foot brake. But the brake stops the blade. Big cast iron wheels turn for a long time due to the mass. I like the foot brake, hoping I never NEED it, but if I do, the blade stops.
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
LumberJocks Woodworking Forum
2.5M posts
96K members
Since 2006
A forum community dedicated to professional woodworkers and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about shop safety, wood, carpentry, lumber, finishing, tools, machinery, woodworking related topics, styles, scales, reviews, accessories, classifieds, and more!