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String inlay and finishing

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Forum topic by HarveyDunn posted 10-26-2020 10:18 PM 329 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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HarveyDunn

397 posts in 2645 days


10-26-2020 10:18 PM

I’m working on a keepsake box design and I think that the addition of some holly stringing on the lid might be just the thing it needs. Never done it before but I think I grasp the basics. However: I want to use a colored stain on the same face as the striking, but yet keep the stringing white. I don’t think prefinishing the face with the stain is an option. I read in FWW about painting the stringing with a few coats of shellac before applying stain to the rest of the piece, and I think that is an option. But what kind of stain can I use that won’t disturb the shellac? I want a colored stain (blue, I think).

Edit: Is Rubio Monocoat an option?


6 replies so far

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shipwright

8618 posts in 3712 days


#1 posted 10-26-2020 11:54 PM

You probably want a dye not a stain. Why not dye the base and then add the stringing? You can clean the Holly down to the base surface with a card scraper and not penetrate the surface enough to remove the dye.

-- Paul M ..............the early bird may get the worm but it’s the second mouse that gets the cheese! http://thecanadianschooloffrenchmarquetry.com/

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HarveyDunn

397 posts in 2645 days


#2 posted 10-27-2020 01:18 AM

Can I ask why dye not stain?

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shipwright

8618 posts in 3712 days


#3 posted 10-27-2020 04:59 AM

Crisper colour, no effect on glue for the stringing, I guess I just prefer dye for appearance.

-- Paul M ..............the early bird may get the worm but it’s the second mouse that gets the cheese! http://thecanadianschooloffrenchmarquetry.com/

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Robert

4142 posts in 2394 days


#4 posted 10-27-2020 10:31 AM


You probably want a dye not a stain. Why not dye the base and then add the stringing? You can clean the Holly down to the base surface with a card scraper and not penetrate the surface enough to remove the dye.

- shipwright

+1 on dyeing first.

I’ve tried leveling inlay banding with a card scraper & it was impossible to avoid scraping the field. The next time I used a chisel and got much better results, but again, a bit tricky.

Some boxes I’m making now I’m going to try a plane blade.

I’m thinking a crank neck chisel or a chisel plane would be the best tools for the job.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

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Rich

6145 posts in 1503 days


#5 posted 10-27-2020 01:43 PM


I’m thinking a crank neck chisel or a chisel plane would be the best tools for the job.

- Robert

Yeah, the first thought I had was a chisel plane. The advantage to that method is that the blade can be adjusted, allowing you to keep it clear of cutting into the surface of the box, while gradually lowering the blade to sneak up on leveling the inlay. A crank neck chisel or bent paring chisel would work too if you were very careful, but I’d probably start with my chisel plane just to play it safe.

-- Half of what we read or hear about finishing is right. We just don’t know which half! — Bob Flexner

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shipwright

8618 posts in 3712 days


#6 posted 10-27-2020 11:10 PM

I’m still going with the scraper. This marquetry is inlayed into an old teak plywood table top. Who knows how thin the veneer is? All I know is I didn’t want to find out. .... and I didn’t.
Any blade attacking on a plane like angle has the risk of catching grain running down and chipping IMHO making a scraper a safer bet.

-- Paul M ..............the early bird may get the worm but it’s the second mouse that gets the cheese! http://thecanadianschooloffrenchmarquetry.com/

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