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Wax over tung, then later.... ??

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Forum topic by jklingel posted 10-22-2020 04:51 PM 349 views 0 times favorited 15 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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jklingel

149 posts in 2068 days


10-22-2020 04:51 PM

My plan is to let tung oil dry a few weeks (winter here, less than 20% humidity in the house) and then wax it with Johnson’s wax or a quality car wax (let me know if car wax is a bad idea, but it seems that wax is pretty much wax….???). Should blonde shellac be applied before the wax? Thanks for any insights. I’ve read here a bit, but don’t recall seeing that specific question asked.


15 replies so far

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MrWolfe

1229 posts in 1035 days


#1 posted 10-22-2020 04:57 PM

Just my suggestion.
Once the tung oil is cured then shellac is fine (shellac seems fine at any point in the schedule). I apply a light coat of shellac after the oil then hit it with crumpled brown paper from a paper bag (very fine grit just to dull the sheen and knock off nibs) and I apply a wax that has carnauba and beeswax. This gives the piece a matte sheen. For a satin sheen, more shellac. I prefer the matt sheen.
Trewax is an easily available wax with caanauba wax.
jon

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jklingel

149 posts in 2068 days


#2 posted 10-22-2020 05:06 PM

Thanks, Jon. Is the shellac necessary, or just a good idea?

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

5311 posts in 4872 days


#3 posted 10-22-2020 05:39 PM

Shellac is a plus. Will seal the surface well. NO AUTO WAX!

-- [email protected]

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MrWolfe

1229 posts in 1035 days


#4 posted 10-22-2020 05:39 PM

I’m personally leaning towards a matte finish rather than satin or glossy. Its personal preference. So I sometimes leave the shellac out if my final sanding is really smooth, like 320 or 400 grit. If I only sand to 150 or 220 then I add the shellac but I buff out some of the sheen before waxing. Just my preference.
jon

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jklingel

149 posts in 2068 days


#5 posted 10-22-2020 06:20 PM

Thanks again. I will try some waxing over shellac.

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jklingel

149 posts in 2068 days


#6 posted 10-22-2020 06:22 PM



Shellac is a plus. Will seal the surface well. NO AUTO WAX!

- Bill White


I guess I will leave the turtle in the bottle then. Thanks.

View AndyJ1s's profile

AndyJ1s

471 posts in 666 days


#7 posted 10-22-2020 07:36 PM

When you say Tung Oil, are you meaning “Pure Tung Oil”, or “Tung Oil Finish”

Big difference… Google “Tung Oil Bob Flexner” to find out, and how to use either one.

I love pure (cut) tung oil on walnut, but it takes a long time to dry between the multiple applications typically required. Well worth the effort.

-- Andy - Arlington TX

View CWWoodworking's profile

CWWoodworking

1130 posts in 1090 days


#8 posted 10-22-2020 08:53 PM

Try some of the hard wax oils instead of mixing stuff. Less frustrating and usually much better results.

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jklingel

149 posts in 2068 days


#9 posted 10-22-2020 09:15 PM



When you say Tung Oil, are you meaning “Pure Tung Oil”, or “Tung Oil Finish”

Big difference… Google “Tung Oil Bob Flexner” to find out, and how to use either one.

I love pure (cut) tung oil on walnut, but it takes a long time to dry between the multiple applications typically required. Well worth the effort.

- AndyJ1s
Pure tung oil. Nothing but the best for my customers!


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jklingel

149 posts in 2068 days


#10 posted 10-22-2020 09:18 PM



Try some of the hard wax oils instead of mixing stuff. Less frustrating and usually much better results.

- CWWoodworking


I had to Google “hard wax oil”, but thanks. That may be the easiest and best solution. I’ll let the oiled bowls dry a while and give it a shot.

View SMP's profile

SMP

2852 posts in 817 days


#11 posted 10-23-2020 12:59 AM

Well pure tung oil looks fine by itself IMO. Now for shellac, the reason some people wax it is because its difficult to get an even finish, so many people buff with steel wool to even it out then wax to cover the steel wool scratches. I’ve never felt the need to do anything over tung oil, or BLO for that matter.

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jklingel

149 posts in 2068 days


#12 posted 10-23-2020 01:21 AM

SMP: Agreed. I have no real issue w/ the looks of tung oil, as it gives a very natural, grain-enhancing look to most of the bowls. But, I have a bit of shine-attraction in me and want to glitz some of the bowls up a bit, as well as protect them more. That “protection” is probably unnecessary because the oil is apparently gonna do a great job of protection, and most bowls I make will be sitting on a table holding fruit or (I hope) peanut M&M’s. I encourage the M&M’s, but don’t demand it. : ) Either that, or they will migrate inside a cupboard…. I will try the wax on a few and see what happens. I just took out all 36 of the ones I made 5 months ago and rounded the top edges over, then re-oiled them. I was surprised that they look even shinier now. So, I’ll see how it goes. I can always use the wax on my table saw.

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SMP

2852 posts in 817 days


#13 posted 10-23-2020 02:54 AM

If its shine you want then as someone mentioned Trewax works great. I think the carbauba content is higher than a lot of others out there.

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jklingel

149 posts in 2068 days


#14 posted 10-23-2020 04:18 AM

I will look for Trewax! Thanks. Shine is good. I would have used high gloss paint in our house if my Main Squeeze would have allowed it. Next marriage…. Cheers. j

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jklingel

149 posts in 2068 days


#15 posted 10-31-2020 05:44 AM

A final question on this. Once I wax a bowl, with or without shellac (I will try shellac on a few to see what gives) what will people have to do down the road? Rewax only? Strip the wax, oil again, etc. These bowls are probably not going to see liquid very often, if ever, other than a wiping off. I don’t want to generate a lot of work for someone. So far, I have only used pure tung oil or mineral oil; easy to doll up. Thanks. j

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