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Forum topic by slolearner posted 10-18-2020 10:31 PM 548 views 2 times favorited 28 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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slolearner

38 posts in 1023 days


10-18-2020 10:31 PM

Ok fellas, I am officially frustrated. So i bought this thing about 2yrs ago and havent used it much because i do not trust it. I had the blades sharpened and it cut good but i was getting a taper. I put the thing in the corner and havent touched it since. Well I am bored now and it irritates me to have 300.00 machine sittin around that doesnt work right. So ive figured out the outfeed table is saggin at the end about a good 1/16th of a inch which if ive understood is what causes this taper. So my question is how do I adjust it up…?


28 replies so far

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CaptainKlutz

3825 posts in 2406 days


#1 posted 10-18-2020 10:46 PM

Need to adjust the gib screws and/or add some shims:

https://www.woodsmith.com/article/troubleshooting-tips-for-your-jointer-tapered-cuts/

https://www.finewoodworking.com/2014/10/21/how-to-shim-a-jointer

BTW – it is sort of PIA trial and error process, as shims will try to move as table moves. Worked best for me if set the out feed table height to preferred location, loosen gib screws and THEN insert shims. Move out feed table as little as possible after shimming.

Best Luck.

-- If it wasn't for bad luck, I wouldn't have no luck at all, - Albert King - Born Under a Bad Sign released 1967

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Aj2

3491 posts in 2709 days


#2 posted 10-18-2020 10:50 PM

How did you determine this sag. Before you start down the path of shimming we must be certain our diagnosis is accurate,
When the outfeed is low to the top center of the cut you could possibly get a tapered board in length. If you board is tapered across it width most likely it’s one side has the knives high and cutting more off the wood.

-- Aj

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slolearner

38 posts in 1023 days


#3 posted 10-18-2020 11:20 PM

If Iam running a 2×4 through it on the 1.5 face and i make a pass or two the 3.5 side of the board will have taper in it. I found the sag by running the infeed side up even with the outfeed table and holding a aluminum box level on the infeed side showing being low on the last 2 3rds of the outfeed…

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AlaskaGuy

6199 posts in 3220 days


#4 posted 10-18-2020 11:54 PM

Tapering may or may not be a problem.

Wouldn’t hurt to read it all but you can scroll down to the tapering part.

http://www.newwoodworker.com/jntrprobfxs.html

At the bottom of this article it says::

Think Before Adjusting!

I have to stress the importance of thinking before you start adjusting your jointer. It is very common for problems to be associated with technique rather than mechanical issues with the jointer. People seem to like pronouncing virtually any jointer difficulty the fault of the jointer with an adjustment required. Remember that it is far easier to alter your technique and do the necessary tests to confirm that the problem lies with the jointer itself. I have spoken with very frustrated tech line personnel who have had to try and walk people through restoring what was a perfect alignment that had been adjusted away unnecessarily. Remember that you are the one who can actually see and touch your jointer. Take the time to check its alignment before accepting the advice to adjust anything on it. Just because it happened to someone else doesn’t automatically mean your jointer is in error the same way.

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

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Scap

135 posts in 838 days


#5 posted 10-19-2020 01:55 AM


If Iam running a 2×4 through it on the 1.5 face and i make a pass or two the 3.5 side of the board will have taper in it.
- slolearner

You’re jointing the skinny side, but the wide side is getting tapered?

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AlaskaGuy

6199 posts in 3220 days


#6 posted 10-19-2020 02:30 AM


If Iam running a 2×4 through it on the 1.5 face and i make a pass or two the 3.5 side of the board will have taper in it.
- slolearner

You re jointing the skinny side, but the wide side is getting tapered?

- Scap


I didn’t quite understand that either.

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

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Aj2

3491 posts in 2709 days


#7 posted 10-19-2020 02:33 AM

If it’s tapered across the width 3.50 then check the knives height. If one side is 1/64 higher every two passes is 1/32 it adds up quick.
Aluminum box level is not good enough to evaluate jointer tables in my book. No way

-- Aj

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slolearner

38 posts in 1023 days


#8 posted 10-19-2020 10:06 AM

If Iam running a 2×4 through it on the 1.5 face and i make a pass or two the 3.5 side of the board will have taper in it.
- slolearner

You re jointing the skinny side, but the wide side is getting tapered?

- Scap

For sake of confusion yes. If i have the jointer set up to wack off a .25 inch and i run it along the 1.5 end then after the cut its going to be 3.25×1.5…...

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slolearner

38 posts in 1023 days


#9 posted 10-19-2020 10:07 AM



If it’s tapered across the width 3.50 then check the knives height. If one side is 1/64 higher every two passes is 1/32 it adds up quick.
Aluminum box level is not good enough to evaluate jointer tables in my book. No way

- Aj2

I understand, what do you recommend to check for straightness…..?

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slolearner

38 posts in 1023 days


#10 posted 10-19-2020 10:09 AM

The knife height was set up with a digital gauge to .002 across the cutter head…...

View controlfreak's profile

controlfreak

1385 posts in 513 days


#11 posted 10-19-2020 10:30 AM

I would use a gauge to check and set the knives.

I made this one using a 1 2 3 block and a Harbor Freight gauge after someone hear gave me the idea. That should be your first step and in my case fixed my issues. If table adjustment is still needed I wouldn’t attempt without a very high quality machinist straight edge. It is not cheap but a level is just not accurate enough.

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Fred Hargis

6556 posts in 3405 days


#12 posted 10-19-2020 10:35 AM


For sake of confusion yes. If i have the jointer set up to wack off a .25 inch and i run it along the 1.5 end then after the cut its going to be 3.25×1.5…...

- slolearner

I’m having trouble following this, but that sounds like you’re getting the common taper to me. I wouldn’t trust a level to check it. Di you happen to have to accurate squares of some kind? Set one on each table with the legs pointing up, then bring those legs together. If the squares are truly square and the tables are not aligned you’ll see a gap between the upright legs at the top.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View AlaskaGuy's profile (online now)

AlaskaGuy

6199 posts in 3220 days


#13 posted 10-19-2020 04:22 PM

As Fred said

Picture of the using 2 squares to check the tables. Drafting triangles are relatively cheap compared to a machinist straight edge.

I too am in the camp of not using a level.

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

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AlaskaGuy

6199 posts in 3220 days


#14 posted 10-19-2020 04:40 PM

This is how I adjust my out-feed table to my jointer knives. No tools necessary. When I do this I lower the out-feed table making sure it’s below the knife height, make the cut and bring the out-feed table back up to the piece of wood.

https://youtu.be/PNOt1SvjoLs

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

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slolearner

38 posts in 1023 days


#15 posted 10-20-2020 09:51 AM


As Fred said

Picture of the using 2 squares to check the tables. Drafting triangles are relatively cheap compared to a machinist straight edge.

I too am in the camp of not using a level.

- AlaskaGuy

I will try this soon thank you very much, I am workin 12hrs for the next couple days…..

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