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Forum topic by Jopldangla posted 10-14-2020 12:46 PM 636 views 0 times favorited 20 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Jopldangla

19 posts in 42 days


10-14-2020 12:46 PM

I am quite new to the wood fabrication scene. I am in the process of building a few custom width cabinets and such for a bedroom closet. I have been using this Hitachi table saw, which annoyingly has fence issues. The table saw is my brothers, so I am in the market to get one of my own, but also to get one which is a bit better. I need to build 6 drawer fronts, and 8 shaker style doors to finish off the cabinets. Any recommendations? my budget is about 300-400.

Thoughts… buy a used contractor type saw and upgrade it with a better fence?

buy this saw? https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/345714436666557

From what I have learned, up to now, I need to be looking for something which has a belt driven motor or induction motor. Craftsman brand seems to be ok (but I am at a loss as to which models I should be hunting for).

I am new Boston, MA (if that matters).

Thank you so much for your help (hoping I get some help).


20 replies so far

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Robert

4134 posts in 2393 days


#1 posted 10-14-2020 01:35 PM

I think that saw is decent, at least it has a decent looking fence and looks well cared for, so IMO its a good deal.

That looks like a wobble dado blade – meh. For what you are doing you’ll need a flat top rip blade to make the grooves and a 40-60 tooth blade for crosscuts. A sled or good miter gauge is a necessity.

Induction motors are much quieter, more durable, and more powerful than universal or direct drive motors. They can have a belt, too, but I think you’re talking about regular v-type fan belts just thought I’d mention that.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

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CaptainKlutz

3827 posts in 2407 days


#2 posted 10-14-2020 01:53 PM

Welcome to Lumberjocks!

Might find this blog post helpful:
The ABCs of Table Saws

Your budget puts in the middle to lower end of contractor saw market in my area. Might have to search awhile for TS with decent fence at that price. As you mentioned, other option is buying a Crapsman saw with lousy fence, and upgrade it. All depends on how much time you want to spend fixing up your tool .vs. working wood? The newer Craftsmen or Ridgid contractor saws with extruded aluminum front fence rail are decent choice, with only minor fence complaints.

Finding a used saw to buy is always a challenge. Doing research in advance is smart.
Common question asked in forums is Is this tool a good deal?, which can have various answers.

Best Luck.

-- If it wasn't for bad luck, I wouldn't have no luck at all, - Albert King - Born Under a Bad Sign released 1967

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therealSteveN

6630 posts in 1487 days


#3 posted 10-14-2020 06:12 PM

I agree, completely read over Scotts post about table saws, he offers really good insights there.

https://www.lumberjocks.com/knotscott/blog/32154

After doing so, if you find a saw, you want input on, either make a new post, or better yet add it to this one.

If you find that a contractor saw would be your best bet, that Craftsman saw you linked to could be a choice to give some years of service, it certainly looks cleaner than most of that vintage, and the Dado and Molding head might give you some service. $225 isn’t a terrible price anywhere in the USA, and in New England it’s probably about right. For clean saws you are usually starting at $150.00 anywhere, so take that into consideration. The Dado and molder could be seen as the difference in price. Not so sure you could sell them off for 75 bux though. I would mention that to the seller. HAGGLE is a word, and some sellers never want to, but few will shoot you for trying. :-) I’d offer 175, see what they say?

You could upgrade it’s fence, but you are probably stuck with the miter gauge. The Sears saws come with a proprietary miter slot that doesn’t work with most of the miter bars used on table saws. I feel it’s their worst feature, much of the rest of them can be worked around, replaced, and upgraded as you see a need.

-- Think safe, be safe

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SMP

2856 posts in 818 days


#4 posted 10-14-2020 06:26 PM

Honestly if it were me, i would just “tune up” that saw the best I could and learn how to use a tape measure to make the fence as parallel as possible to the blade. Then put your $300-400 into a router table and router and shaker door router set. I’d personally much rather have that to do 8 shaker doors. I’ve done doors out of 1×3 or 1×4 poplar from big box stores, and the router table did most of the work.

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therealSteveN

6630 posts in 1487 days


#5 posted 10-14-2020 06:59 PM

Possibly I am reading more into it then exists, but the OP did say they thought a belt drive was the place to start, so my thinking was the Hitachi he dislikes is a jobsite TS.

Maybe I am wrong, but I was under the belief that all of the jobsite saws came Pre-tuned up, meaning they were just like this, no updates, no changes, no accessories. So there was nothing you could do to tune them up. If you didn’t like what they were, you just needed to move up a class of saw.

I do not disagree with the router table thought, and no time to have one available then when making cabinet doors.

Of course everything we do is a push/shove, of tool cost, and what we can make with the ones we have, and cost of just surrendering, and buying furniture, cabinets, and such already made.

-- Think safe, be safe

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sansoo22

1283 posts in 567 days


#6 posted 10-14-2020 07:43 PM



Possibly I am reading more into it then exists, but the OP did say they thought a belt drive was the place to start, so my thinking was the Hitachi he dislikes is a jobsite TS.

Maybe I am wrong, but I was under the belief that all of the jobsite saws came Pre-tuned up, meaning they were just like this, no updates, no changes, no accessories. So there was nothing you could do to tune them up. If you didn t like what they were, you just needed to move up a class of saw.

- therealSteveN

My DeWalt 7491RS could be “tuned”...but it was an exercise that induced swearing and fist shaking at the universe. You could adjust whatever it considered a trunion and the fence for getting them parallel with the miter slot. Just one miter slot though since they werent parallel to each other.

I tend to agree with SMP about using the budget for a router table. I did a handful of shaker drawer fronts and cabinet doors not long ago and once my parts were cut to size the rest of the work took place on the router table.

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ras61

118 posts in 2434 days


#7 posted 10-14-2020 08:50 PM

I love my older Delta 2000 Series Contractor Saw, it can do 90% of what a cabinet saw can do at a fraction of the price. I upgraded the fence and replaced one of the steel wings with a cast iron extension that mounts a router underneath, this isn’t necessary for good results but is nice that it can be upgraded down the road. These older well made saws can be found in your budget, but it might take a little time and patience; estate sales and folks moving are the best way to get one at a good price. SMP makes a good point about working with a bad or so-so fence, just take a little extra time to measure the distance from the front and back of the blade to the fence with a tape and you can accurately make any cut.

Frankly that saw your looking at seems exactly like what you want and need. It’s clean and from a dry shop, many contractor saws are rust buckets from poor storage. It seems like a good deal to me, I’d jump on it unless someone has bad experience with this model – Good Luck!

-- "South Carolina is too small for a republic and too large for an insane asylum" - James L. Petigru, 1860

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Jopldangla

19 posts in 42 days


#8 posted 10-14-2020 08:52 PM

The table saw I am using, Hitachi C10FR, which I would call a portable/jobsite type saw.
I did read the ABC’s, I should read them again. Thank you for all the tips thus far. Quite an informative bunch.

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ras61

118 posts in 2434 days


#9 posted 10-14-2020 09:28 PM



Frankly that saw your looking at seems exactly like what you want and need. It s clean and from a dry shop, many contractor saws are rust buckets from poor storage. It seems like a good deal to me, I d jump on it unless someone has bad experience with this model – Good Luck!

That looks like an older model that I’d bet was made in the USA, and was probably made by Delta and a clone of one of their own. I see the owners manual in the pics, contact the owner and get the model # and do a little research, that will clear up any questions or doubts

-- "South Carolina is too small for a republic and too large for an insane asylum" - James L. Petigru, 1860

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Jopldangla

19 posts in 42 days


#10 posted 10-15-2020 12:54 PM

What do you guys think of this bad guy?
Seems really clean, and sort of inline with some of your recommendations thus far. I am a little uncertain of the price. (he says he is firm).

It is a Delta 36-474, 10” Contractors saw, Platinum Edition.

https://boston.craigslist.org/sob/tls/d/marshfield-delta-table-saw/7214107689.html

Does the UniFence only connect to a rail on the front side? Isn’t that a bit unstable?

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Lazyman

5932 posts in 2300 days


#11 posted 10-15-2020 01:23 PM

Here is a discussion about the 36-474 on LJ. Doesn’t look like a bad saw and $325 is probably in the ball park.

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

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CaptainKlutz

3827 posts in 2407 days


#12 posted 10-15-2020 01:27 PM

Unifence is my favorite fence. Nothing unstable about it. The fence alone sells for $250+ on fleabay as they have large fan club and are discontinued.
Saw looks in great shape. That model has uncommon dual winding motor; is 1.5HP that runs well on 120v 15A power, and offers 2Hp on 240v circuit. Price is pretty fair with mobile base and top of line fence. Doubt you can find a better USA made contractor saw for money?
Also suggest you might find OWWM rule #5 happening soon.

Cheers!

-- If it wasn't for bad luck, I wouldn't have no luck at all, - Albert King - Born Under a Bad Sign released 1967

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ras61

118 posts in 2434 days


#13 posted 10-15-2020 01:51 PM

What CaptainKlutz said!

-- "South Carolina is too small for a republic and too large for an insane asylum" - James L. Petigru, 1860

View Jopldangla's profile

Jopldangla

19 posts in 42 days


#14 posted 10-15-2020 09:28 PM



Unifence is my favorite fence. Nothing unstable about it. The fence alone sells for $250+ on fleabay as they have large fan club and are discontinued.
Saw looks in great shape. That model has uncommon dual winding motor; is 1.5HP that runs well on 120v 15A power, and offers 2Hp on 240v circuit. Price is pretty fair with mobile base and top of line fence. Doubt you can find a better USA made contractor saw for money?
Also suggest you might find OWWM rule #5 happening soon.

Cheers!

- CaptainKlutz

DARN!!! Lost this one… OWWM Rule #5… :(

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Sark

352 posts in 1273 days


#15 posted 10-17-2020 08:28 PM

Instead of buying a new table saw, buy a work stand system which includes a quality fence and continue using your current saw which probably cuts just fine if it only had a decent fence. The advantage of doing things this way, is that regardless of what new saw you bought, it doesn’t really replace the need for a good quality work stand, so for the same money you’ll get a lot of additional functionality.

Also, I would buy the Shaker doors and drawer fronts from a cabinet door manufacturer, such as Decor and not try to make them. Leastways that’s what I did running a cabinet shop for 10 years. Let the door company worry about the getting warp-free wood, perfect joints, etc….

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