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Dust Collection Advice

4K views 57 replies 18 participants last post by  AL61 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
I have been so overwhelmed with differing dust collection options that I have continued to ignore the problem and do what little I can with my shop vac for years now. Since I do predominantly hand tool work these days, this has not been too much of a problem. I have recently decided that I need to take the plunge on a thickness planer to aid in stock preparation, and I cannot ignore the problem any longer.

I have a basement shop that is somewhat poorly laid out due to space constraints that would be difficult to overcome, therefore, I have given up on the idea of a central system and decided a portable system that can be brought to the machines is probably best.

I really like the idea of an upstream separator since the planer will make a lot of chips to handle. I looked cyclone units from Grizzly (poor reviews), Onedia (EXPENSIVE!!!), and Laguna (too big and too expensive).

My latest thought is to get a smaller wall mount and a couple of brackets so that I can just move it from one location to another, and a use trash can style separator upstream. Simple and relatively low cost. I can buy a second unit in the future if moving from one location to another proves to be too annoying (for less than the cost of one Oneida unit!). Alternately, I might mount the unit and the separator on diy mobile base of some sort.

I am looking at the small Rockler 650 CFM and the Rikon 60-101

The Rockler has a $50 gift card promo going, so the net price is $220 + shipping. I would probably opt for either the 5 micron bag (another $40). The Rikon is about $450 an includes a 1 micron filter.

Would love to hear some thoughts about this approach!
 
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#3 ·
Thanks. I have been leaning towards the Rikon myself, but can find very little information about it and no reviews to be found. There are as many (actually more) positive reviews on the Rockler as there are negative. I think it is matter of expectations (and yes, IF I went that way my expectations would be pretty low).

I get the point about "chip collection" vs "dust" removal. The problem is that you quickly go from hundreds dollars to many multiple thousands of dollars once you start down the Bill Pentz path of ultra fine particle removal. And I am not convinced that you can ever actually remove the ultra-fine particles (Steve Johnson makes a pretty good case for why you can never fully remove ultra fine particles here)

If I were a daily user of power tools, I would be all in, but there must be some sort of practical, mid range solution for casual users (a few hours a month).
 
#4 · (Edited by Moderator)
For wading dust in a basement workshop I would strongly recommend a Air Filtration Unit similar to this that I have in my basement shop https://www.amazon.com/WEN-3410-3-Speed-Remote-Controlled-Filtration/dp/B00LPD9BDI/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&hvadid=78271538121109&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvqmt=e&keywords=wen+3410&qid=1601845809&sr=8-1&tag=mh0b-20

The Rikon 60-101 is nice, but only has a 1.5 cubic feet collection bag capacity. unless you add a homemade cyclone style collection before it. or use a larger plastic bag. Menards offers the Rikon Products online shipped free to the store, if you live near a Menards, and 11% off rebate. You might want to consider the HF 70 gallon 2hp collector https://www.harborfreight.com/2-hp-industrial-5-micron-dust-collector-97869.html

Either way add a Air Filtration Unit. For sanding, add a box fan with a furnace filter attached also.
 
#5 ·
Is this just coming up because of the planer? Many (most? all?) planers including the DeWalt 735 have a fan ejecting the chips as fast or faster than most dust collectors can collect. Lots of folks just shoot these straight into a trash can, or maybe some setup with a cloth bag. Of all the tools to pick to be the one that pushes you over the edge of wanting a DC, I'm thinking a planer would not be the one …
 
#6 ·
Spraying the furnace filter with cooking spray helps the dust stick to a cheap filter. Sounds funny, but it worked for drywall dust. If you can, a 2 hp DC with a pleated filter is the best, and not much more money. Look for a used machine. I know of a good one near me, but Illinois would be a long ride. And the hanging Wen is also in my shop, and really helps with the fine dust. I personally think the Bill Pentz stuff goes way beyond a home shop. I am not knocking him. If I lived in my shop as a career, it would be different.
 
#7 ·
Thanks again!

I do use a box fan with a furnace filter. I was actually looking at the Wen unit earlier today too. I suspect that the box fan might actually move more air. I am curious if anyone sees a benefit to a dedicated air filter vs a box fan/filter setup. Since I am lucky enough to have a walkout basement, I run another fan (no filter) directed outside too (weather permitting).

I thought about running down the Harbor Freight 2HP route. It might be kind of fun to piece something together (with a Wynn filter and cyclone). But I need something portable and even if I put it on wheels, it would probably be kind-of big. I have not completely ruled it out though.

I see a lot of guys hook up one of the DustRight bags to their planer, so that is an option I am considering too. However, I do find that despite my best efforts of using a shop vac where I can and running the fans, I end up with a layer of dust everywhere. So my goal is to try to keep things a bit cleaner than they are today.
 
#8 · (Edited by Moderator)
I'm in the same camp as ibewjon and WoodenDreams… for less than you are thinking of spending on the Rikon, and just a bit over the Rockler, I would start with the HF dust collector (mobile) and an air cleaner like the WEN.
If/when you add a drum/spindle sander, spring for a cartridge filter for the HF.

BTW, did you ever finish that Cessna 182?
 
#11 ·
There are many stories on lLJ's about buying HF, then changing impeller, filter, and possibly other alterations. And some of those admit that it is the same money as buying a Jet or Griz. Not counting the time investment, and tools if you don't have them. I am sure you can find a decent used DC that only needs a filter upgrade for less that will work better.
 
#14 ·
Regardless of your choice of dust collector, I would encourage you to get a PAPR (positive air pressure respirator). Yes, they cost a bit, but so do various lung issues. Working in a basement w/out one, IMO, is like rolling dice that are loaded the wrong way. I finally bought one a couple of years ago, and find myself slapping it on to do the smallest amount of dusty work. It is that easy to put on. What convinced me was the first time I used it. Once I took it off, I was shocked at how dusty the air felt/smelled/tasted. "And I've been breathing that ()&& before this?" Remember, hearse does not tow a trailer, and there is no sense in cutting life short. Either way, good luck.
 
#15 ·
I recommend you reconsider the whole situation. A basement shop will allow the finest particles (the most dangerous ones) to spread in the living area. Having a capture and contain system seems to be a little more important. I'm not crying the sky is falling, but just asking you to give this careful thought. Capturing those fine particles takes air flow, lots of it. So the larger the DC, the better. But it's not just the DC, the ducting and tool ports have to support whatever level of collection you decide to do. The ambient air cleaner is an excellent idea as well. In the shop it's true that the by the time the ambient cleaner catches the particles it's already in your lungs. But by capturing the air borne particles it will mitigate their migration into the balance of the house. I realize it's very hard to spend money on a tool that does nothing to the wood; but it's one of the more important shop investments (IMHO). Best of luck as you sort all this out and set your self up.
 
#16 ·
I recommend you reconsider the whole situation. A basement shop will allow the finest particles (the most dangerous ones) to spread in the living area. Having a capture and contain system seems to be a little more important. I m not crying the sky is falling, but just asking you to give this careful thought. Capturing those fine particles takes air flow, lots of it. So the larger the DC, the better. But it s not just the DC, the ducting and tool ports have to support whatever level of collection you decide to do. The ambient air cleaner is an excellent idea as well. In the shop it s true that the by the time the ambient cleaner catches the particles it s already in your lungs. But by capturing the air borne particles it will mitigate their migration into the balance of the house. I realize it s very hard to spend money on a tool that does nothing to the wood; but it s one of the more important shop investments (IMHO). Best of luck as you sort all this out and set your self up.

- Fred Hargis
This is excellent advice!
 
#17 ·
Al,

Didn't read the posts so apologize if I'm redundant. Shavings producers like planers and jointers are not that difficult to collect, so a wall mount attached to a compact planer should work just fine.

The down side is they may not be big enough for a larger sized cyclone, and there are issues with the filter bags. The bags are crummy and they don't hold a lot.

IMO if it is possible to exhaust outside, a dedicated wall mount is an economical & good way to go.

If you have to keep the exhaust inside the shop, you'll need good filtration. A canister type is best.
 
#18 · (Edited by Moderator)
So I am reading through all of the recommendations, which are all MUCH appreciated and any additional thoughts and recommendations are welcome!

I need still need to think more about the overall approach, but a first step will be to pull the trigger on an air filter as was suggested. That will be worthwhile regardless of what I end up with for a DC.

But if the only approach is to go whole hog on full system with a 2HP collector, cyclones, PAPR masks, fixed ducting, electrical wiring to support the larger systems, etc. you are looking at thousands of dollars (even buying some of the stuff used).

I have to believe that there is a more moderate and portable approach that can be brought to the machine that is adequate for light duty occasional use.
 
#20 ·
Do not confuse a "chip collector" with an actual "dust" collector. Cloth bag units collect chips and big sawdust. The fine stuff is what kills you. Literally. You want a HEPA filter on your system and add a HEPA filter ambient air filter. When cutting or routing MDF, still need a good certified mask. PP as mentioned is a good idea. ( hard to find right now, I can't even replace my N95's) . I also have MERV 13 filters in front of my split-system and need to make one for my new de-humidifier. I buy generic filters online far cheaper than the local stores.

Hint: The estate I got my drill press from, was available because he did not put in a dust system until he already had lung disease.
 
#21 ·
Sorry to hear about "another statistic". I was not the best at lung/ear protection until a couple of years ago, though I had done very little woodworking until then. When stuff is out of sight, it really is out of mind. I now wear hearing aids. IMO, regardless of what air cleaning/purifying/massaging system you have in, fine dust is in your face before it may get extracted from the air. Therefor, put on a PAPR and THEN worry about the air in the rest of the room. If you have a PAPR on, then dust on the floor is your main, immediate concern. Screw the dust collectors w/ HEPA filters, etc, that cost both arms and one finger. WEAR your lung protection. The point about dust migrating to the rest of the house is a good one, because it will. Somehow, seal the door between shop and house, and pump bad air outside, if possible, as mentioned. Just my 2 cents.
 
#23 · (Edited by Moderator)
Well, we all have a different opinion on what is "adequate", and that s why answers to these questions are so varied. I hope you find what you consider adequate.
Agree completely! I guess I am still trying to figure out what "adequate" means tp me.

Unfortunately, there is no perfect answer to this. You can do everything possible to mitigate your risks and still become a statistic (my family has sad experience with this - not wood dust related), so this ends up being an individual decision.
 
#25 · (Edited by Moderator)
One suggestion not touched on for a basement shop. If you have ductwork in the basement for your heating & A/C system, seal off the cold air returns in the basement or put filters in the cold air return vent or at least use a better furnace filter and change the furnace filter very three months. I have 'central air' in my home. My basement has no cold air returns, only two heat vents and five cove heaters. My basement shop stays a consistent 70 degrees year-round. And I don't have the issue with wading dust throughout the house.

If you don't seal off the cold air return vents in the basement, you should have your air ducts cleaned every other year professionally by a company like Stanley Steemer at a cost of $500 or more each time. Using good Air Filtration methods and dust collection will help save this cost..
 
#26 ·
I don t see thousands. Buy a used machine with pleated filter. Add a dust deputy cyclone. An air filter and a dust mask. Less than $1000. The added electrical for a 240v machine is extra of course.

- ibewjon
It adds up fast:

Used 2HP System and Filter: $400 (Assume half the cost of a new Jet 2HP system)
New circuit: $350 (Based on last new circuit I had installed)
Cyclone $160 (Super Dust Deputy 4" Cyclone)
Ducts, blast gates, hoses $300 (Guess, probably low)
Air filtrations system $250 (Wen 3417)
PAPR Mask $450 (Trend air)
Supplies $100 (There are always bits and pieces)

Total $2,010 (Before taxes and shipping charges)

And I am sure I have low balled at least some of this because (invariably) I always do. All in, probably around $2,500 - $2,750. If I end up buying new (I have no way to transport home a used system bought from a private individual anymore) the total will be around $3,000 +/- a bit.
 
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