I also have the DeWalt and long and short tracks, and accessories. Love it, and it has always done what I needed from it without problem.
That said if I was looking for low budget, and had time on my side when using it. I would have stayed with what I had before the DeWalt. A good circular saw I was comfortable with, and a plywood cutting shoe. Actually I am planning to remake one, and add on the other side a ledge to run a straight bit Plywood 23/32" in a router. Like shown below.
chefHDAN described it above.
Loren was correct, with a straight edge you have to add in the overlap, no need here, because you are cutting the exact edge of the jig, so just like a track saw you are aligning it directly to your line.
The thing about the track saw, is the rubber feet that keep it from moving as you position the jig along the line. These jigs you make don't have a rubber bottom like that. They are a very good thing. Most people make track saw cuts without clamps, because the rubber hold the track in place
However you won't change the accuracy any if you added a rubber bottom to your plywood to make it less slippy.
Adding something like this, and pretty soon you'll quit thinking of buying a track saw.
How to make one shown below. One sheet of plywood, or really some scraps of plywood, and you are almost done, add a few clamps, and get busy.
https://www.rockler.com/learn/circular-saw-cutting-jigs
Colin shows how to make and use the jig in this video.
In the following video Tommy shows you how to make the jig bi directional. Take that thought, but instead of circ saw both ways, make the shorter ledge for a 23/32 straight cut router bit, and make it a router ledge. The thing about either the saw side, or the router side is it is only set up for one particular saw, or router, and with the blade thickness, or the router bit, only one size as well. IOW: changing to a 1/2" router bit will cut past the line made by the 3/4' bit.
Note Tommy carefully measured to know where to set the guide ledge. All you really need to do is allow plenty of overhang, and it doesn't really need to be straight, square or whatever. When you cut it, you will make it straight, and square. Same for the router side.
The router side is awesome if you build a cabinet with dadoed in shelves. All you need to do is take a piece of plywood the depth of BOTH walls of a cabinet, lets saw for a wall cabinet of 12" depth you use a 24" piece of plywood to make both. Figure where you want your shelf/shelves and before you rip the side out of the entire piece of plywood, make your dado's across the entire thing. JUST remember to make a mark on what will become both haves, either top, or bottom. After you make your dado/dados rip the plywood into the 2 pieces, and you have perfectly aligned walls for your dados to match side to side. Nice flat evenly spaced shelves with almost no work, and measuring to get it done. AS long as you keep the tops same, or the bottoms same.
A slick jig, with a lot of firepower.