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Forum topic by CWWoodworking posted 09-24-2020 10:56 PM 917 views 0 times favorited 34 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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CWWoodworking

1093 posts in 1065 days


09-24-2020 10:56 PM

Pick a thickness for 1/4” please. 5mm, 5.2, 6. I don’t really care. Just make it with a little consistency.

In the past month it’s ranged from 4 to 6 and its driving me nuts.

I just recently ordered some pretty expensive tooling. I went with 6 mm, now I’m wondering if I shouldn’t gone a little bigger.

What size does everyone use for plywood frame and panel doors?


34 replies so far

View AlaskaGuy's profile

AlaskaGuy

6115 posts in 3195 days


#1 posted 09-24-2020 11:02 PM



Pick a thickness for 1/4” please. 5mm, 5.2, 6. I don’t really care. Just make it with a little consistency.

In the past month it’s ranged from 4 to 6 and its driving me nuts.

I just recently ordered some pretty expensive tooling. I went with 6 mm, now I’m wondering if I shouldn’t gone a little bigger.

What size does everyone use for plywood frame and panel doors?

- CWWoodworking


You must be new to using plywood. :)

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

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CWWoodworking

1093 posts in 1065 days


#2 posted 09-24-2020 11:12 PM

No not new. I don’t consider myself all that picky. But man I must have got the extremes. I had to sand off a ton just to get it into a 5.5mm. Then the next panel raddled they were so loose.

View Rich's profile

Rich

6000 posts in 1475 days


#3 posted 09-24-2020 11:17 PM

.

-- Half of what we read or hear about finishing is right. We just don’t know which half! — Bob Flexner

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SMP

2678 posts in 791 days


#4 posted 09-24-2020 11:27 PM

Yeah its crazy. Now when searching some websites they are in categories. 1/4” category can have like 5 different thicknesses pretty close to 1/4”-ish. Imagine if car parts were like that. Yeah I need some valve springs that are around 1”.

View LittleBlackDuck's profile

LittleBlackDuck

5822 posts in 1707 days


#5 posted 09-25-2020 01:45 AM

Can’t help you with the ply dillema… I bite the bullet, put on my Trend full head shield and work with MDF (6mm in this case)... at least the MDF has a better standard deviation distribution.

You think you have problems with ply… just wait till you try the same comparison with shop vacs and their respective hoses and dust ports.

-- If your first cut is too short... Take the second cut from the longer end... LBD

View splintergroup's profile

splintergroup

4059 posts in 2108 days


#6 posted 09-25-2020 03:35 PM

Even in “the good old days” when things were more consistent, I always got all the required plywood from the same batch and then sized my grooves appropriately. Royal PITA, but not much else that can be done. Alternatively, a small rabbet can be cut on the back side (router table) such that the portion that slips into the groove is of consistent thickness.

Each method either requires a lot of pre-planning or wastes a lot of time and opens up other avenues of aggravation 8^)

For tooling, I’ve also given up on getting the proper fit with one pass and instead size my cutters a tad under the minimum thickness needed (then make two passes).

My guess for the whole situation is as follows:
Ply manufactures make 3/4” (0.75”) plywood.
Router bit cabal makes 0.750” dado bits.
Ply mfg, makes undersized by 1/32”
Router bit cabal makes 1/32” undersized cutters
Ply mfd. laughs and makes random thickness sheets.
Router bit cabal makes variable diameter bit with bright anodizing and calls it a “system” for only $200
Ply Mfg. make thickness vary over entire sheet.

View drsurfrat's profile

drsurfrat

164 posts in 73 days


#7 posted 09-25-2020 05:18 PM

You guys are funny – made my day.

-- Mike (near Boston) ... Laziness is the mother of invention, necessity is the mother of exhaustion - me

View woodbutcherbynight's profile

woodbutcherbynight

6319 posts in 3295 days


#8 posted 09-26-2020 12:17 AM



Even in “the good old days” when things were more consistent, I always got all the required plywood from the same batch and then sized my grooves appropriately. Royal PITA, but not much else that can be done. Alternatively, a small rabbet can be cut on the back side (router table) such that the portion that slips into the groove is of consistent thickness.

Each method either requires a lot of pre-planning or wastes a lot of time and opens up other avenues of aggravation 8^)

For tooling, I ve also given up on getting the proper fit with one pass and instead size my cutters a tad under the minimum thickness needed (then make two passes).

My guess for the whole situation is as follows:
Ply manufactures make 3/4” (0.75”) plywood.
Router bit cabal makes 0.750” dado bits.
Ply mfg, makes undersized by 1/32”
Router bit cabal makes 1/32” undersized cutters
Ply mfd. laughs and makes random thickness sheets.
Router bit cabal makes variable diameter bit with bright anodizing and calls it a “system” for only $200
Ply Mfg. make thickness vary over entire sheet.

- splintergroup

-- Live to tell the stories, they sound better that way.

View WoodenDreams's profile

WoodenDreams

1164 posts in 797 days


#9 posted 09-26-2020 01:48 AM

I normally don’t use plywood or MDF on any project. But, I just finished making two shed doors for a customer. He wanted 1 1/2”x 5 1/2” rails and stiles with 3/8” plywood for center panels with center trim pieces to stiffen up the plywood in the doors. I usually figure 1/32 to 1/64 inch narrower dados for the plywood to eliminate slop. Turned out the plywood was actually 3/8” thick. Good thing I didn’t make the dado cuts before the plywood was delivered to me. Would of had to recut the dado slots.

View SMP's profile

SMP

2678 posts in 791 days


#10 posted 09-26-2020 03:55 AM

If i wanted to make millions I would in invent a system of channels. Say for panels or drawer bottoms. You route a 1/4 groove, and insert my channel that is sized to accept one of the 100 or so thicknesses near 1/4”

View therealSteveN's profile

therealSteveN

6475 posts in 1460 days


#11 posted 09-26-2020 04:11 AM

CW just 2 words for you and your dilemma. SPACE BALLS. Set them into a groove wide enough to take the panel. They take care of the rattles, and the fit will always be like it was custom made.

The rest of you guys. Thanks for the chuckles, it was a fun read.

-- Think safe, be safe

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pottz

11735 posts in 1870 days


#12 posted 09-26-2020 04:13 AM

just deal with it,thats the wood life…...next !

-- working with my hands is a joy,it gives me a sense of fulfillment,somthing so many seek and so few find.-SAM MALOOF.

View bondogaposis's profile

bondogaposis

5875 posts in 3237 days


#13 posted 09-26-2020 01:20 PM

This has been a pet peeve of mine for years, if they can make MDF and Particle board true to size there no reason for plywood not to be true size, it is a manufactured product, they can make any size they want. So why not simple logical sizes? 5.2 mm is 0.2047244” , so convenient.

-- Bondo Gaposis

View 987Ron's profile

987Ron

105 posts in 202 days


#14 posted 09-26-2020 07:02 PM

I have a wood block, 6” x 10” prox. 3/4” thick. Over a period of time I have cut grooves with various router bits and marked the groove with the bit size. Standard bits like 1/4” then some “plywood bits” etc.
Now when making a groove for a panel I use the block with the ply to see which one is close or get lucky and find the one that fits right.

-- It's not a mistake it's a design opportunity

View LittleBlackDuck's profile

LittleBlackDuck

5822 posts in 1707 days


#15 posted 09-26-2020 08:31 PM



... if they can make MDF and Particle board true to size there no reason…
- bondogaposis

I don’t know about MDF. I often buy it and it sometimes its exactly 3mm thick, but then at other times it 6mm thick and even 9mm thick… I gave up when it go to 12mm… I just couldn’t handle the inconsistency in sizes.

-- If your first cut is too short... Take the second cut from the longer end... LBD

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