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Suggestions on how to notch MDF trim to clear a door latch

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Forum topic by SlimPete posted 09-21-2020 11:22 AM 262 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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SlimPete

2 posts in 35 days


09-21-2020 11:22 AM

I will be replacing some trim around a door frame with 2.5” squared off MDF. The trim is a bit too thick so I think the door latch will rub. Initially I thought I could raise the blade at an angle on a table saw but I’m guessing the cut would be too large with a 10” blade.

I’m looking to remove something about the same size and shape of a lime wedge or smaller. I have about 8 doors to do so I thought it was worth asking since I am out of my depth.

Thanks for your input,

Chris


6 replies so far

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John Smith

2726 posts in 1046 days


#1 posted 09-21-2020 12:00 PM

welcome to the forum Chris.
photos of your project would help immensely.
I have a few carving tools that are really sharp. so when it comes to working
with MDF things, I just grab the appropriate chisel and whack away at it.
depending on your issue, things like a coping saw, bench chisel, box knife,
kitchen knife, the end of a belt sander, etc. will work.
just depends on your handyman skills and tools available.
photos will help us help you.

.

-- there is no educational alternative to having a front row seat in the School of Hard Knocks. --

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

6503 posts in 3376 days


#2 posted 09-21-2020 01:32 PM

When you say “lime wedge” I’m guessing you want to just remove the area the latch (plate?) would rub. Much easier and looks just as good (to me) would be to get maybe a 1/4” or 3/8” radius roundover bit and chuck it in a palm router. Round over about 1” + to allow clearance for the plate. if I’ve misinterpreted your problem I apologize.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

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LittleShaver

695 posts in 1502 days


#3 posted 09-21-2020 03:16 PM

MDF cuts easily with a sharp chisel or knife. Side benefit is there is no nasty dust from power tool.

-- Sawdust Maker

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tbone

318 posts in 4567 days


#4 posted 09-21-2020 03:57 PM

You can always order ‘extended lip’ strike plates that will protrude just beyond the new trim. Multiple sizes and configurations are available. https://www.doorware.com/site/department.cfm?id=460757

-- Kinky Friedman: "The first thing I'll do if I'm elected is demand a recount."

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Fred Hargis

6503 posts in 3376 days


#5 posted 09-21-2020 04:56 PM



You can always order extended lip strike plates that will protrude just beyond the new trim. Multiple sizes and configurations are available. https://www.doorware.com/site/department.cfm?id=460757

- tbone


I was unaware such things existed, certainly an easier route.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

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SlimPete

2 posts in 35 days


#6 posted 09-22-2020 01:25 AM

Thanks for all of the quick replies. I forgot that our installed garage door has the same issue but have included a picture. It was installed by a professional but it looks like he struggled a bit. The trim extends about 5/8” from the door jam. Of the tools you listed, I have a coping saw, a single 1” chisel, and a finishing hand sander. My main concern about using a hand tool is achieving a consistent look. That said I have plenty of scraps to practice on.

The following link is to my onedrive account if you want to see one of the installed doors.

https://1drv.ms/u/s!Ap_oFkEX81J0gctriF8gsjmGH8Zi5w?e=ywF1uT

Tbone – thanks for the doorware website link to extended striker plates. I haven’t measured the distance from the screws to the edge of the trim but I’m optimistic.

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