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Help please. I'm baffled on a jointer refurb

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Forum topic by Andybb posted 09-14-2020 07:56 PM 1019 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Andybb

3330 posts in 1849 days


09-14-2020 07:56 PM

Topic tags/keywords: jointer question

I bought an older Grizz G1182 off of CL. Needed some TLC but otherwise seemed to be in good shape. Don’t plan on painting it but I wanted to refresh all of the “workie” parts. Made a modified cutter guard out of maple for it using current available hardware as parts are no longer available and otherwise cleaned it up. No big deal right?

Well, the blades are now hitting the outfeed and infeed tables. Not by much but enough that they hit just a gnats ass hair before the tables get high enough to be higher than the blades at TDC. (can you say snipe?) I discovered it when I rotated the head by hand. I think I can shim the hell out of them enough to clear but there were no shims in there when I took it apart so I’m baffled and a little perplexed. Even called Grizzly and they were stumped too and they basically said just “shim the hell out of it”. If I adjust them so the blades spin freely I get just a little snipe, otherwise, I’d leave them alone as the outfeed never needs adjusting and the infeed is never going to be higher than the outfeed table and it cuts great.

Blades are new and adjusted to the correct height as per Grizz specs. I’ve got some aluminum shims in there now but they are still just a hair too thin so I’ll probably remove them and cut some long strips of sheet metal for the tables to ride on instead. Then I can use thin shims to get the tables co-planer etc.

When I got it I did notice that the blades in it were lower in the gibs on the cutter head than they should have been. I guess it’s possible that some previous owner had the same issue and simply uniformly set the blades lower?

I trust that when I get back from doing my honey-do errands one of you guys will have told me what the heck I’m missing and make me go “duh!” or tell me to “just shim the hell out of it” :-)

-- Andy - Seattle USA


10 replies so far

View Lazyman's profile

Lazyman

7987 posts in 2633 days


#1 posted 09-14-2020 08:26 PM

Are you using the cutter head adjuster or just setting the height to 1/8” as the manual says? I don’t have this jointer but looking at the manual I have to wonder if the 1/8” spec is just a starting point and the adjuster would lower it to its appropriate setting?

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

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Andybb

3330 posts in 1849 days


#2 posted 09-14-2020 08:53 PM

Thanks for the effort. Yes. Using the Grizz jig but it sets it at 1/8” The Grizz tech said just set to 1/8 even without the jig.

Thinking about a solid 1/16” shim and lowering the blades by 1/16” which would give me an eighth.

-- Andy - Seattle USA

View Jim Jakosh's profile

Jim Jakosh

26801 posts in 4351 days


#3 posted 09-14-2020 10:47 PM

I have a Grizzly jointer and I don’t understand where you are talking about putting shims? The knives sit on adjustable screws in mine. If you are getting snipe, the outfeed table is not adjusted up to be even with the cut edge coming off the knives and it HAS TO BE DEAD LEVEL WITH THE CUT SURFACE. We have an old craftsman in the shop in our park in Az.and the outfeed table is not adjustable, so you have to set the knives right on to that table. An old blacksmith showed me how to do that with out using a setting gauge. You take a small piece of wood about 3/8 square by about 3 inches and set that on the out feed table over the head. Then adjust the blade up until it just kisses the wood and moves it forward a bit when manually turning the head. Do that on both sides and with all the knives and then run it to check for snipe.

Good luck…...........Cheers, Jim

-- Jim Jakosh.....Practical Wood Products...........Learn something new every day!! Variety is the Spice of Life!!

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Andybb

3330 posts in 1849 days


#4 posted 09-14-2020 11:08 PM

Understood but my problem is that the blade contacts the bottom of the table before it gets high enough to to clear TDC of the blades which is where the outfeed table needs to be when the blades are set to the required height. That’s not how it’s supposed to work but I’m pretty sure I can fix it. I’d just like to eliminate the possibility that I’m missing something because I’m stupid. I even sent the Grizz tech those pictures.

-- Andy - Seattle USA

View Aj2's profile (online now)

Aj2

4073 posts in 3044 days


#5 posted 09-14-2020 11:19 PM

my guess is the knives are sticking out of the head too much.
They also could be too thick and sticking out too far.

-- Aj

View CaptainKlutz's profile

CaptainKlutz

4905 posts in 2740 days


#6 posted 09-15-2020 12:08 AM

Since this is a used machine, and you show chassis with cutter removed:
Have you double checked the head mounting flanges and bolts (item 208/209 in pic)?

Reason I ask:
One method used to solve out feed alignment table issues on old jointers with fixed out feed tables, is the addition of shims/washers under the bearing blocks (209) for the cutter head. If the bearing blocks are too high, the blades can hit the table.

+1 Lower the blades.
When the factory setting for knives is not working, then fugetabout factory gauge.
Instead set the out feed table near maximum, and set the knives level with out feed table. If this knife height impacts the table, lower the table and repeat knife setup. +/- 1/32” in knife height won’t change performance.

IMHO – I find dovetail jointer to be one of the most challenging tools to set up. If the casting surfaces are not flat, or table gibs not set properly; they can be really puzzling to get everything flat and tuned well.

Best Luck.

-- If it wasn't for bad luck, I wouldn't have no luck at all, Doom, despair, agony on me… - Albert King - Born Under a Bad Sign released 1967

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Andybb

3330 posts in 1849 days


#7 posted 09-15-2020 12:37 AM



+1 Lower the blades.
When the factory setting for knives is not working, then fugetabout factory gauge.
Instead set the out feed table near maximum, and set the knives level with out feed table. CaptainKlutz

Yes. Couldn’t have said it better myself. Exactly the conclusion I came to and the route I’m following. Just wanted to make sure I wasn’t missing something.

Thanks everyone.

-- Andy - Seattle USA

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Andybb

3330 posts in 1849 days


#8 posted 09-16-2020 05:58 PM


IMHO – I find dovetail jointer to be one of the most challenging tools to set up. If the casting surfaces are not flat, or table gibs not set properly; they can be really puzzling to get everything flat and tuned well.

Best Luck.
- CaptainKlutz

No joke! I had no idea but I now know that beast inside and out which I like. What a pain in the ass that was, but all good now with no snipe. The only issue I have is that with only 1/16” (vs 1/8”) between the tops of the gibs and the blade edges it would probably like to have a little more room to clear chips but it’s relatively happy as long as I take shallow cuts of 1/16” or less.

Thanks again everyone.

-- Andy - Seattle USA

View BoomerBuilt's profile

BoomerBuilt

27 posts in 790 days


#9 posted 12-30-2020 08:24 PM

Thanks for commenting on my feed of the same origin as this. I believe I solved it on mine by taking off the cutterhead, and using a die grinder to cut away the areas where it is hitting. I’m deep into a reassemble so haven’t checked it yet but can’t see why it won’t work. Basically I took the whole edge off the area where the cutterhead sat and the blades were catching.

-- You never know what you don’t know.

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woodman71

199 posts in 4570 days


#10 posted 12-30-2020 11:16 PM

It might be late but i think you infeed and outfeed table are not in a straight line . Your tables sound like the back of your tables are to high causing your front edge to be to far forward causing them to hit. you should check that with a long straight edge or use string . Put string on the back of both table but pull tight your table should be in line if not you need to adjust good luck.

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