Delta RAS Question (33-830)

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Forum topic by GatoFiero posted 09-14-2020 12:04 PM 297 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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2 posts in 173 days

09-14-2020 12:04 PM

Hello folks! I am new to this forum and I’d like to start of question for anyone with a Delta RAS 33-830 question.

Could someone provide me with measurements for the table top and fence pieces?

I know that the specs say 27” x 44”, but I am assuming that is the complete size with all the pieces in place. I cannot find a mention anywhere in the ‘net for the sizes of individual four pieces that make up the Set.

I picked up a gently used 33-830 but it doesn’t have a table top.
So, I’d like to make one, with the fence, right like factory specifications.

Could someone help me out?

6 replies so far

View ibewjon's profile


2279 posts in 3808 days

#1 posted 09-14-2020 12:45 PM

I put a wider table on my DeWalt RAS. Added 6” to each side. If you are going to use it, make it the size that works for you.

View GatoFiero's profile


2 posts in 173 days

#2 posted 09-14-2020 02:50 PM

I agree, that “wider is better.”

However, I want to emulate the original fence depth and the depth of those two pieces behind the fence tailgate go up to the clamps/stops.

I would like this measurements and the make them wider.

It all looks like 3/4” stock. I just need the front-to-back measurements of each piece, then, like you said, make it wider…

View MPython's profile


338 posts in 827 days

#3 posted 09-14-2020 04:07 PM

I don’t know the factory specs for the table for your saw. I have a Rockwell Delta Super 900 RAS. The table design is different from yours, but I think the bottom line is the same. The exact table specs aren’t all that important as long as you’re careful that the pieces fit closely in the space between the screw holes that anchor the pieces to the saw base. I’ve replaced the table on my saw several times and I’m pretty sure it is no longer factory spec. Just be sure you have the screw holes correctly lined up on the front and back piece and you should be good to go. If you google your saw model, you will find replacement parts diagrams that show the pieces of the table, but they don’t provide the specs. Use the diagram as a guide and make your own. One thing to watch for is the placement of the fence. The farther toward the rear of the saw you locate the fence, the more you limit the thickness of the stock you can safely cut. The closer to the front you locate the fence, the more you limit the length of the cut. There are a couple of thin strips that, along with the fence, fit between the rear table piece and the front one. They serve to regulate the fore and aft position of the fence. You can alter the fence position by placing one or both of these pieces in front of or behind the fence. This will probably make more sense if you refer to the parts diagrams mentioned above.
Good luck.

View pottz's profile


15006 posts in 1999 days

#4 posted 09-14-2020 04:19 PM

i agree with the others dont worry about what was factory make it the size you want,after redoing my ras it’s not even close to original but it’s what i like.most stock tables are way too small imo.

-- working with my hands is a joy,it gives me a sense of fulfillment,somthing so many seek and so few find.-SAM MALOOF.

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

6848 posts in 3508 days

#5 posted 09-14-2020 04:31 PM

I found these dimensions in the manual (copy at OWWM). Since you know the overall size, you can interpret the rest, but the fence board is 2” wide (of course this gets put in with the 2” going vertical) the narrow board is 1 1/4” wide, and the wider one is 5 3/4”. If I added right (and your overall size is right), that make the table itself 19 1/4 deep. I got those from page 12 of the manual. Let me suggest that you not make it from 3/4” thick boards. It needs to be thicker, at least 1”..and even better a Mr. Sawdust table (search that term, if you’re interested any number of us can talk you through it).

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View runswithscissors's profile


3128 posts in 3040 days

#6 posted 09-14-2020 08:17 PM

If you intend to do any dado cutting on the RAS, the front face of the fence should fall directly under the blade arbor, or at the dead center bottom of the blade teeth (2 ways of saying the same thing). This lets you know how wide to make the piece behind the fence.

This is why miters saws don’t work for dadoing; the dado cutter stops cutting as soon as it reaches the fence, hence a dado slot shaped like a ski jump. You can sketch this out on the back of an envelope to see why this is so.

-- I admit to being an adrenaline junky; fortunately, I'm very easily frightened

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