LumberJocks

Rockwell (Delta) 28-200 band saw help needed

  • Advertise with us

« back to Power Tools, Hardware and Accessories forum

Forum topic by controlfreak posted 09-13-2020 06:28 PM 423 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View controlfreak's profile

controlfreak

1303 posts in 489 days


09-13-2020 06:28 PM

Topic tags/keywords: rockwell delta 14 band saw question bandsaw refurbishing

I picked up a 14 band saw with a rusty table and that is fixed now. As I started tuning it up I found that the lower thrust barring was maxing out it’s travel distance before reaching the 3/16” blade. I tried adjusting the blade further back but never quite got there while the blade was a little right of center but had to stop adjusting (see below). To anyone that has replaced the thrust bearing before, is this just “pressed” onto the shaft and is therefore adjustable? I realize that this shouldn’t be a problem as I use wider blades.

What is a good starter set of blades in terms of size and brand? Don’t have a riser block and thinking that I will wait until I get a bigger saw for 6” + resaw capacity. I plan on doing some resawing and the regular mild curved work. The 3/16” blade that came with the saw is probably trash judging by the wear in the steel blocks and the tooth imprint in the tires so I will start fresh

The old rubber tires look okay but the glue has dried up and upon firing the saw up the tire sifted and threw the blade. At $25 per tire I think I will just upgrade rather than re glue the old rubber ones. Was thinking Carter blue but if anyone has a better tire please chime in.

The steel Blocks are worn and I could file a bit but as cheap as they are I can replace. What do you think, Cool Blocks?

I looked at the tension quick release but for $200 I think I can release the tension the old fashioned way.

Lastly if the thrust bearing adjustment assembly is extremely borked I could just get a replacement kit. It looks like Carter spends the most on advertising but are there any other kits worth looking at. This is a costly item and I would rather not go down this road but

On the bright side the motor is new and good Delta motor and the wheel bearings seem to be okay for now.

I know this is long but there is usually some real good advise here on LJ.


9 replies so far

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

8244 posts in 3086 days


#1 posted 09-13-2020 06:38 PM

No pictures, so can’t help with bearing other than to tell you that it is a standard 6200 bearing and is not press fit.

For the rest – urethane tires are urethane tires afaik… I’ve never seen any real difference between the blue or red ones other than color and price. Your HSS steel guide blocks are the best there is, so I wound’t replace them – if they are tore up, they can be easly fixed on a bench grinder or with a metal file. And save your green on that quick releas tension thing… just snake oil unless you are one of those people who change their blades on an hourly basis.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View controlfreak's profile

controlfreak

1303 posts in 489 days


#2 posted 09-13-2020 09:16 PM

Thanks @MrUnix I guess I will do a search on tires to see what shows up. I will get a file and true up the steel blocks. I will try to post a picture of the thrust bearing issue. But how is the bearing attached to the shaft? If it can be replaced then is its position able to be adjusted? This is the lower trust bearing I am referring to. When bringing the lower thrust bearing closer to the blade a fat lock ring collides with a nut stopping movement.

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

8244 posts in 3086 days


#3 posted 09-13-2020 09:54 PM

But how is the bearing attached to the shaft? If it can be replaced then is its position able to be adjusted?

The lower thrust bearing is on a stepped rod, captured on one side by the step, and the other by a sleeve. The entire assembly slides freely back and forth in the bracket, and a link is attached at the front to the secondary adjusting bolt. Here is a picture for reference:

And here are all of the parts disassembled:

The lower thrust bearing, stepped rod, sleeve and attaching bits are in the bottom of that photo. The thrust bearing position on the rod is fixed, sandwiched between the machined step and the sleeve. There is quite a lot of linear movement provided with that setup, so if you can’t get the bearing to meet the blade, then the only thing I can think of (provided all the stock parts are there) would be an improperly mounted blade or a wrong thrust bearing.

In case you haven’t already seen it, here is the obligatory tune up video you should watch:

Band Saw Clinic with Alex Snodgrass

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View controlfreak's profile

controlfreak

1303 posts in 489 days


#4 posted 09-16-2020 01:11 AM

I have done the videos and they are great. Got some orange tires for half of the blue, thanks MrUnix, and they fixed my issues. The blade is tracking well and I have the saw dialed in. It cuts beautifully. I opted to spend the $10 on some cool blocks over filing the steel ones. Happy to have a nice band saw

View controlfreak's profile

controlfreak

1303 posts in 489 days


#5 posted 09-16-2020 10:42 AM

I also think that the lower trust barring adjuster is possibly bent. This could be from impact or being forced to where the nut collides with the housing at max range. I can turn freely for about half a turn and then need a channel lock to move past a tight spot. Once again MrUnix thank you for the pictures. They will help when I break that assembly apart to clean and see what happened to that threaded shaft. If that is your saw man that baby looks well taken care of.

View controlfreak's profile

controlfreak

1303 posts in 489 days


#6 posted 09-17-2020 01:39 PM

Next Item to consider?

I haven’t bought any blades yet but a 3/16” came with the saw and cuts well. Before I buy anymore I have found a riser block kit (seen on youtube) that is made for a grizzly I think but has modified “pin” holes from CS Machinery. I need to measure the round vertical rod to see if it is 15/16” or a 1”. The 1” is $230 and the 15/16” is $260, I guess he needs to make or turn it. Right now I have a 1/2 HP motor and have no illusions about re-sawing a 13” piece of oak but the first time I want to fit an 8” board on it (max 6” re-saw now) I will be revisiting this moment.

I would love to hear thoughts on this from follow LJ’s

I am also thinking about making a re-saw fence but have seen a maglock fence. Anyone like these? The bonus is I can use on my drill press too.

View controlfreak's profile

controlfreak

1303 posts in 489 days


#7 posted 09-17-2020 08:01 PM

@MrUnix What paint did you use in that restoration?

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

8244 posts in 3086 days


#8 posted 09-17-2020 09:25 PM

@MrUnix What paint did you use in that restoration?
- controlfreak

The paint used has since been discontinued… it was rattle can Sherwin Williams High Seas Gray #650094014. Perfect match to what was there, but I guess not enough people buying it to justify keeping it on the shelf.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View controlfreak's profile

controlfreak

1303 posts in 489 days


#9 posted 09-18-2020 12:41 AM

Thanks @MrUnix That is a relief, it looked so good I thought I was going to need to buy an expensive spray rig. I will look around and see what seems to match my factory colors. What are your thoughts on a riser block kit? I was a bit depressed to find that my round rod is 15/16ths and thus $30 more.

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com