Complimentary woods

Black Walnut, Wenge, Black Palm. That covers the dark end of the spectrum with Holly, Yellow wood, tiger maple et. al on the lighter end of the spectrum.

-- Cheap is expensive! - my Dad

I go the other way, if the wood in question is darker, I almost always go light. Maple being a favorite wood anyhow pairs very well to any of the darker ones. By using curly, birds eye, quarter sawn, or just plain flat sawn it can also have a bunch of different looks.

This is something you can easily use Google images for. If you have an idea of 2 woods, put them in a google search, make sure to say Maple, and Padauk same project. Then just pick images. I do this quite often.

https://duckduckgo.com/?q=Maple%2C+and+Padauk+same+project&t=opera&iax=images&ia=images

-- Think safe, be safe

I also prefer lighter as contrast. I would choose some type of maple, followed by ash or butternut, possibly white oak.

The great article by Garrett Hack FWW #211 “The right way to use contrast” is the answer to your question.
https://www.finewoodworking.com/2010/02/11/the-right-way-to-use-contrast

Ebony goes with anything.

Pear

QS sycamore.

Birch, beech.

Chesnut, butternut.

Iroko

Mulberry

Box elder

Sinker cypress

-- WWBBJ: It is better to be interesting and wrong, than boring and right.

Padauk will bleed into the bordering wood. If you go with a lighter wood you will have problems. You may be able to spray a sealer (shellac) on before applying your finish and control the problem. Brucshing just compound the bleed.

-- Bruce, Boise, ID

Also consider that Padauk will usually turn brown after a short time.

I often look to pictures of acoustic guitar pictures. Many luthiers use contrasting binding to very good effect.

Good point splintergroup! African Padauk almost always turns to a root beer brown if it sees the light of day. A darker corner might take longer to change or to a lesser extent.

-- I love the smell of sawdust in the morning.