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Help with sliding style dovetails

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Forum topic by scribble posted 08-31-2020 12:40 PM 307 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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scribble

237 posts in 3077 days


08-31-2020 12:40 PM

Topic tags/keywords: jig question router maple oak

I am trying to make a sliding dovetail setup for my tenoning jig im building but am having numerous problems getting it to work out. Its both the male and female portion.
Thank You for any help.
Like this.

-- If you can't read it Scribble wrote it!! “Experience is merely the name men gave to their mistakes.”


9 replies so far

View Axis39's profile

Axis39

356 posts in 474 days


#1 posted 08-31-2020 12:59 PM

We might need more info on what those problems are….

-- John F. SoCal transplant, chewer uppper of good wood

View Robert's profile

Robert

4029 posts in 2357 days


#2 posted 08-31-2020 01:00 PM

The fit is always the issue for me, I’m assuming you, too.

I’ll tell you what I know.

Hog out the bulk with a straight bit first. I think this gives a more accurate result. Establish the heighth & don’t ever change it.

I do the female part first, then dial in the male but it can be done either way.

You’re talking thousandths of an inch, and each change is doubled if you’re centering the pin.

When adjusting the fence, I find it helpful to clamp a reference block and use a feeler gauge to adjust. For example if the fence needs to move back, place the gauge, clamp the block, remove the gauge and then move the fence & vice versa.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

View bondogaposis's profile

bondogaposis

5870 posts in 3228 days


#3 posted 08-31-2020 01:07 PM

When you get the fit tight, but still difficult to slide, wax it. Sometimes that is all you need to get to move freely.

-- Bondo Gaposis

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scribble

237 posts in 3077 days


#4 posted 08-31-2020 01:18 PM

I am trying to figure how to make the male portion the correct width, is were im having issues.

Cutting the female side the only issue I have is that I measure and mark center and use a v bit to verify it is in the middle with my line it always seems to be slightly to one side.

-- If you can't read it Scribble wrote it!! “Experience is merely the name men gave to their mistakes.”

View John Jardin's profile

John Jardin

83 posts in 517 days


#5 posted 08-31-2020 01:38 PM

scribble,
you would do well buying a dovetail bit, then proceed as Robert has suggested.

View Nubsnstubs's profile

Nubsnstubs

1732 posts in 2607 days


#6 posted 08-31-2020 03:02 PM



I am trying to figure how to make the male portion the correct width, is were im having issues.

Cutting the female side the only issue I have is that I measure and mark center and use a v bit to verify it is in the middle with my line it always seems to be slightly to one side.

- scribble


When you make the female cut, turn the piece around and make another pass. That should center the female dovetail.
When making the male DT, creep up on the cuts until you have what you need. ............ Jerry (in Tucson)

-- Jerry (in Tucson) www.woodturnerstools.com

View JackDuren's profile

JackDuren

1330 posts in 1836 days


#7 posted 08-31-2020 03:57 PM

Is it choking on the router table?

View therealSteveN's profile

therealSteveN

6419 posts in 1451 days


#8 posted 08-31-2020 07:24 PM



I am trying to figure how to make the male portion the correct width, is were im having issues.

Cutting the female side the only issue I have is that I measure and mark center and use a v bit to verify it is in the middle with my line it always seems to be slightly to one side.

- scribble

Pretty much, then you enter the land of a Thousand test cuts. Made harder if that Female half isn’t dead center. Finding center with the splayed DT bit is much harder than a straight sided straight bit, as others have said to hog the waste. It also can more easily define your start point. Once the Female is centered…...

Use scrap to start test cuts. The biggest tip I can give you is this entire process is more easily repeatable if you always use 3/4” stock, exactly 3/4”. Not just some marked in a bin as being 3/4”, but measured, and worked to be 3/4” exactly. Or whatever size you feel warm and fuzzy about.

Having the same size stock every time, you can then make (out of really straight grained hardwood, Maple rocks) make yourself a set of set up blocks using the successful cuts you made after test cuts. Measuring from them makes going back to A-Ok, much easier.

But good measurement, and test cuts is the answer. Plus keep in mind a movement is just half the needed distance, and what I would add to Bondo’s comment is: Or 0.150mm or less.

-- Think safe, be safe

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scribble

237 posts in 3077 days


#9 posted 09-08-2020 05:25 PM

Thank you for all the help, I was able to get them made and worked out with numerous cuts and adjustments to go.

-- If you can't read it Scribble wrote it!! “Experience is merely the name men gave to their mistakes.”

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