Delta tablesaw identity?

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Forum topic by Jim55 posted 08-19-2020 12:40 PM 309 views 0 times favorited 11 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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194 posts in 2944 days

08-19-2020 12:40 PM

I recently acquired a Delta Table saw from Lowes. The problem is it only came with one GP throat plate that isn’t wide enough for a full 45 deg. or dado cuts. I want to add a wide plate and a make a zero clearance plate too.

My problem came while trying to find plates for my saw. It don’t look to be what it says it is! The box and model number on the saw itself is 36-725 which is this saw…36-725
BUT! The saw sitting in my shop looks like this 36-500

Now, to see if my links work… OK. They work.

If anybody can suggest to me what goes on here, I sure would appreciate it! Barring that, off the top of your heads, Are the throat plate sizes of the two saws the same? ( I am going to look it up to be sure in any case.)

11 replies so far

View PPK's profile


1801 posts in 1688 days

#1 posted 08-19-2020 12:51 PM

Hmm. I wonder if Delta even makes extra inserts for contractor saws. If it were me, I’d just cut an insert out of plywood, drop it in and make a zero clearance insert. Same for the dado/ miter one, but you’ll have to cut out the blade slot… shoot, while I’m at it, I’d cut out half a dozen so that when one insert gets worn, I have another all ready to go. Thems just my thoughts anyway.

-- Pete

View Jim55's profile


194 posts in 2944 days

#2 posted 08-19-2020 01:26 PM

I spent a lot of time yesterday trying to sort this out. A few minutes on the phone with Delta cleared it all up. I’ll share what I learned in the off chance that it is of use to somebody else.
From 2013-19, Delta manufactured a model 36-725. That’s a saw with grey surround sides, looks just like a 36-500.

Starting in 2019, they introduced a new version that replaced the older model in their line up. It is the 36-725 T2. It has only one side actually I guess you call it a face plate, that is black. The other three sides are open.

Concerning the throat plates, the have some. Model or part numbers are; Zero clearance plate, 36-501. The dado plate is 36-502.

If it were me, I’d just cut an insert out of plywood…” that’s fine and I know it will work just fine too. But, fFor myself, where I have the option, I prefer to use the part designed for the job.

Still, thanks for the reply.

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1054 posts in 2527 days

#3 posted 08-19-2020 01:28 PM

Looks like you got the older one. It might be a better saw. It would be easier to put on a base and make a hybrid out of for better dust collection. Just to be sure, downloads the owners manuals and look at the parts diagrams.

It has a riving knife, not a splitter? I don’t know when the changeover.

DIY throat plates. SOP.

View Jim55's profile


194 posts in 2944 days

#4 posted 08-19-2020 01:42 PM

Yes, I have the older model and I’m fine with that. I got the saw I looked over at the store and said I wanted.
Yes, it has a riving knife. That was a must for me. I previously had a Hitachi C10FL Table saw. It is a good saw for sure. But, it has a splitter on it. I just so often found myself wishing I had the riving knife instead that I decided to go ahead and get a new saw.

That’s getting harder to do these days! This is the only floor model saw offered in either Lowes or Home Depot. Everything else are collapsible contractor saws. (Though Delta calls this new one of mine a “contractor saw” too.) Searching the web shows the same. The next step up are hybrid or cabinet saws and those, regrettably, are waayyy beyond my pitiful budget!

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221 posts in 523 days

#5 posted 08-19-2020 02:48 PM

I have the 36-725. I bought the Delta ZCI. It is less than optimal. There are still wide gaps in it that allow thin offcuts to fall through. I ended up making my own with some laminate floor scraps. If you can use a router and a jigsaw, they are not too difficult to make.

There is also a guy who sells MDF ones on Etsy if you’re not up to making your own.

-- –Chuck M. Nutmegger by choice

View therealSteveN's profile


6422 posts in 1452 days

#6 posted 08-19-2020 03:47 PM

In the long run you will be much further ahead to just make your own. I’d suggest 1/2” MDF, in use it works out a lot better than the metal vibratory plates, and against plywood the MDF is heavier = more stable, and you will have to really work at it to hurt yourself, unlike plywood inserts that are always trying to loan you a splinter.

The win comes in that you can have a zero clearance plate for any contingency, plus some back ups out of a sheet of MDF. Once you are set up, just keep making. use one for whatever, then magic marker what angle, and blade on it, and surprisingly they last a long time. If you coat them quickly in some thinned poly, they last even longer.

-- Think safe, be safe

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455 posts in 633 days

#7 posted 08-19-2020 09:01 PM

AFAIK, the common terminology for (non-slider) tables saw types in the US is cabinet vs hybrid vs contractor vs jobsite saws.

Cabinet saws have full cabinet enclosures (all the way to the floor), two piece trunions (the semicircular ways that allow blade tilt) mounted to the cabinet, and belt-driven from induction motors.

Hybrid saws have lighter, two piece trunions, mounted to the cabinet, and usually belt driven from induction motors. Hybrid saw cabinets do not go to the floor, and have open legs.

Contractor saws have trunions mounted to the underside of the table, gear or belt driven from an induction motor. Externally, they look similar to hybrid saws.

Jobsite saws have smaller tops, usually cast aluminum, with noisy, universal (brushed) motors, and trunions mounted to (or cast into?) the underside of the table, gear or direct driven. They often have folding stands/legs with wheels.

Cabinet and hybrid saws are easier to adjust the top (miter slots) parallel to the blade. Contractor and jobsite saws are harder to adjust.

-- Andy - Arlington TX

View Jim55's profile


194 posts in 2944 days

#8 posted 08-20-2020 08:33 AM

Thanks for the clarification Andy and howdy from a fellow Texan!

Based upon your descriptions what I’m seeing in the warehouse stores and on-line, are a predomination of “job-site saws.” This Lowes had 1 hybrid saw, 1 contractor saw, and several job-site saws. Of course, the hybrid saw cost a fortune. I don’t even bother to look at them.

Anyway, that’s enough for me.
Thanks to all who answered.

View Planeman40's profile


1519 posts in 3639 days

#9 posted 08-20-2020 04:01 PM

Just a note to say that aluminum makes nice throat plates. Aluminum works well with woodworking tools, especially carbide teeth. But non-carbide teeth work well too.

-- Always remember: It is a mathematical certainty that half the people in this country are below average in intelligence!

View 23tony's profile


65 posts in 1048 days

#10 posted 08-20-2020 04:42 PM

I have the 36-725, I have yet to find any third-party inserts that fit. At one point I picked up one that was a close fit and applied some “adjustments” to get it right. Probably would have been better off just making my own, given the cost and effort.

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455 posts in 633 days

#11 posted 08-20-2020 08:19 PM

The best article I’ve seen on making your own zero clearance inserts for table saws was written by Bob Van Dyke in Fine Woodworking #251 – Tools and Shops 2016 Issue. A PDF of the article is available free online at FWW if you have an account.

He lays out the process step by step, with lots of great ideas for easily and safely making them.

-- Andy - Arlington TX

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