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Table saw getting wedged - What am I doing wrong here?

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Forum topic by Nate Finch posted 08-15-2020 02:36 AM 1646 views 0 times favorited 42 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Nate Finch

49 posts in 3773 days


08-15-2020 02:36 AM

Topic tags/keywords: tablesaw

Trying to rip a piece of ~2 inch ash to width on my 3hp table saw…. And the wood had gotten wedged twice, causing the above burns.

The other side is planed flat. The fence appears perfectly square to the blade. Thoughts?

Tips suggested. This thing worked fine yesterday, as far as I could tell.

-- Nate


42 replies so far

View Madmark2's profile

Madmark2

1608 posts in 1436 days


#1 posted 08-15-2020 02:44 AM

Try flipping it over and cutting from the other end/side.

Its releasing internal stress causing it to bow into the blade. Come at it from the other direction & it’ll want to go away from the blade.

-- The hump with the stump and the pump!

View LeeRoyMan's profile

LeeRoyMan

1399 posts in 575 days


#2 posted 08-15-2020 02:49 AM

Dull Blade?
Too many teeth? (I would go with a 24 tooth blade.)

Might need to take a few passes, cut half way 1st pass, then finish up.

-- I only know... what I know....

View waho6o9's profile

waho6o9

8940 posts in 3425 days


#3 posted 08-15-2020 03:20 AM

A rip blade would work better.

View Nate Finch's profile

Nate Finch

49 posts in 3773 days


#4 posted 08-15-2020 03:20 AM

It’s not the wood, since it’s also happening on random scrap as well…. Just tried it with a 2×6 (above).

It’s notably mostly the part of the wood near the bottom. It seems like it only happens when the blade is pretty high out of the table. I wonder if the speed holes (whatever they’re called, the slits in the blade) near the center are adding friction, they feel a bit rough on the fence side of the blade .

-- Nate

View Aj2's profile

Aj2

3325 posts in 2646 days


#5 posted 08-15-2020 03:22 AM

What does appear mean to you.
The blade should be parallel with the miter slot on the right. Then the fence should be adjusted to be either parallel with the miter slot or out slightly. If it’s inward even a little that’s not good.
From the looks of the blade it needs to be cleaned and your saws alignment checked.
If you need suggestions how to do the alignment. Feel free to ask there’s nothing wrong with not knowing how.
Good Luck

-- Aj

View Nate Finch's profile

Nate Finch

49 posts in 3773 days


#6 posted 08-15-2020 03:23 AM

(I should also swap out the blade for something less toothy, it’s true.. I’ll try that)

-- Nate

View LeeRoyMan's profile

LeeRoyMan

1399 posts in 575 days


#7 posted 08-15-2020 03:31 AM

Blade got hot and warped?
Blade looks like it’s deflecting (probably from being dull or too many teeth) and the plate is rubbing the wood, compounding the problem.
Just throwing out ideas, I really don’t have a clue.

-- I only know... what I know....

View Nate Finch's profile

Nate Finch

49 posts in 3773 days


#8 posted 08-15-2020 03:32 AM

Yes, happy to have someone tell me how to ensure the fence is perfectly parallel to the blade. I’m sure there’s a trick I don’t know.

-- Nate

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

8211 posts in 3047 days


#9 posted 08-15-2020 03:35 AM

Yes, happy to have someone tell me how to ensure the fence is perfectly parallel to the blade. I m sure there s a trick I don t know.
- Nate Finch

Align miter slot to blade. Plenty of methods and super easy on a cabinet sat.
Align fence to miter slot. See documentation for your fence on how to do that.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View Aj2's profile

Aj2

3325 posts in 2646 days


#10 posted 08-15-2020 04:12 AM



Yes, happy to have someone tell me how to ensure the fence is perfectly parallel to the blade. I m sure there s a trick I don t know.

- Nate Finch

I use a combination square. Heres a pic.

Use the miter slot between the blade and fence. Check the blade first and make any adjustments before setting the fence. Last adjustment is the blade square to the table.

Good Luck

-- Aj

View Robert's profile

Robert

3936 posts in 2329 days


#11 posted 08-15-2020 12:09 PM

Nate,

I prefer to align the fence to the blade using a dial indicator with the base registered against the fence. You can also use a reference block and feeler gauges. The gap at the back of blade should be a bout .003” wider. Be sure to measure off the same tooth.

My first thought was what MadMark said. Before you do anything o you need to clean the blade. Krud Kutter works great.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

View LeeRoyMan's profile

LeeRoyMan

1399 posts in 575 days


#12 posted 08-15-2020 01:37 PM

Feed rate too fast with the dull blade?

-- I only know... what I know....

View Brayden's profile

Brayden

5 posts in 62 days


#13 posted 08-15-2020 01:37 PM

Hey Nate, if you do happen to pick up a new rip blade and you find that it works, be sure to let us know which blade you bought! I am looking for one this weekend as it so happens…

PS Thanks AJ for that photo. Helped me to visualize it.

-- Brayden

View northwoodsman's profile

northwoodsman

326 posts in 4594 days


#14 posted 08-15-2020 01:59 PM

Are you trying to rip the wood to width or resaw it to the desired thickness? For safety, on a tablesaw the surface of the horizontal surface of the wood touching the table should be greater than the vertical wood surface touching the fence. It almost looks like you are attempting to resaw the wood which is better suited for a bandsaw. When aligning your saw there are two factors – 1) make sure your blade is parallel to the miter slot, tolerance of 0.010 max, and then make sure your fence it parallel to the miter slot as well with the same or even tighter tolerance. I personally like the total of these tolerances less than 0.010 when added together. See your owners guide for how to adjust the trunnion and the fence for proper alignment. My table saw doesn’t get used much but I still check the alignment at least once a year. Some people might think that the alignment should be closer than 0.010 but I’m just going with what my owners manual states for my Saw Stop.

-- NorthWoodsMan

View Nate Finch's profile

Nate Finch

49 posts in 3773 days


#15 posted 08-15-2020 02:17 PM

I did something that didn’t occur to me last night – I checked to see if the blade is flat – it’s not.

It’s convex in the fence side, so the center of the blade is closer to the fence than the edges, which is why it only showed up when the blade was very high.

As for what I’m doing, I’m just making 1.75” square posts out of ~2” stock. So I flatten one face of the stock, joint an edge square and then rip the other two sides.

-- Nate

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