Non-Model Specific Repair Guide for Drill Press

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Forum topic by TTH posted 08-14-2020 04:40 PM 302 views 0 times favorited 1 reply Add to Favorites Watch
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32 posts in 641 days

08-14-2020 04:40 PM

Hey folks, I’m going to pick up a free benchtop drill press today that the owner days won’t turn on. It’s a Nu-Mark model 60-145 1/2 HP drill press that was apparently manufactured in 1989. I figure if i can get it running for less than 50 bucks or so then I’m coming out ahead.

I can’t find a manual for it online anywhere, so I was curious if anyone has any general troubleshooting/repair guides they would recommend I look at as I start tinkering with this thing.

-- Travis, DFW

1 reply so far

View AndyJ1s's profile


485 posts in 1092 days

#1 posted 08-14-2020 06:32 PM

That far back, this may not work too well, but if you can find a current model that looks similar to yours, and has a manual online, I would start there. Today, most small drill presses are made in one of a few factories in China or Taiwan. If you can find a “made in…” label on it, look for drill presses made in the same country.

When you get it home, see if the spindle will turn by hand, and if that turns the motor. If not, that needs to be addressed before you go any further. Could be frozen/dirty/dry bearings on the spindle shaft, the pulley shaft(s), or the motor. Or a bad/missing belt.

Once the motor and spindle spin each other by hand ok, then plug it in and turn it on. No sound at all usually means an electrical problem in the plug, the cord, or the power switch. Each of these can be tested with a basic multimeter. Possibly the motor. If you are not comfortable testing and repairing electrical stuff, then seek help from a motor repair shop or an electric appliance repair shop.

Then, if it just hums when power is turned on, but the motor does not turn, then the starting capacitor on the motor is likely bad, and needs to be replaced with one of the same specs (they should be printed on the side of the capacitor, which is usually located under a cover on the side of the motor). There is also usually a centrifugal start/run switch inside the motor that cuts out the starting capacitor when it gets up to speed. If that is bad (open) with the motor not running, then it needs cleaning or replacing. If the motor starts but gets hot quickly, the centrifugal switch may not be opening, and needs cleaning or replacing.

Beyond this, you should probably seek additional help, or write this off as a not too expensive learning experience.

Good luck!

-- Andy - Arlington TX

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