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THE WORKBENCH... My first woodworking project.

2K views 24 replies 9 participants last post by  controlfreak 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Ok. I just got my PM2000 in the house. And I'm not going to wait until I move to get going. I've decided that my first project is going to be turning my PM into a workbench on wheels. Then or course a ramp to get it in and out of the house. I got ideas… and of course questions. So I'll take it one at a time

First:
I was just given a Porter cable router 6902. Bit from what I can see, I want a 3.25 HP to be fixed under the table? Or just go the middle way for a 2.25 hp (looking at Bosch). Or will the weaker Porter be enough? I don't
want to change it later since I got to get a plate. Thoughts?
 
#2 ·
I would just go with the PC router for now and buy a plate you like. The same plate from the same manufacturer to fit a different model will still be the same size and just drop right in. I think most plates cost between $50 and $70 bucks. Unless you're talking a full router lift and then that's a whole other thing.
 
#3 ·
I would get a more powerful router -2.25 hp or 3.25 hp-that has variable speed for the router table-but 1.75 hp PC 6902 will work for all but the largest bits (e.g. panel raising bit).

With a PC 6902 in a router table you will likely find that adjusting bit height and changing bits is a hassle because you will have to either lift the router and plate up out of the table or go under the table to make the adjustments.

I would consider getting a router lift or buying a router that has built-in lift capabilities (e.g. Triton routers).
 
#5 ·
The same plate from the same manufacturer to fit a different model will still be the same size and just drop right in.
- sansoo22
^^^ Agreed, I've got a 690 & a PC 3hp on the same plate and switch between them just by dropping them in. I recently did a cabinet project and got another 690 at the pawnshop and just made a plate from plywood with a rabbet so it was mostly flush with the table and used it to cut all of the rabbets for my doors. I run most any bit in the 690's except the big cabinet bits, or with some woods that burn easily, when it helps to slow the bit down some.
 
#6 ·
I know this seems like I'm all over the place, but I'm just trying to grasp all my options…

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What about the path of the middle way? Would this handle a panel raising bit? Then I could use my 6902 for all my off table duties and only pull this one off table if 6902 won't get r done.
 

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#7 ·
If you ever plan on adding a premium lift, having a removable motor will give you more choices. JessEm does now have a lift that accepts plunge routers, but the list of compatible units is limited. You might be able to drill custom holes to fit other routers not on the list, but why bother?

I have the JessEm Mast-R-Lift II with the Bosch 1617 motor in it. It handles large panel raising bits just fine, even the 3 1/2" ones I use for raised panels on residential doors.
 
#8 · (Edited by Moderator)
That is a very good router, I do not have one but is frequently the top choice of LJ's when the router question is asked. I personally though would not pay over $80 for an edge guide, especially if you're thinking this one will live in the table. Better to spend your $$$ and get two identical router plates so that you can put either in to the table. I like the Rousseau Plates for cost & function, and there have been many times when I'll use one of the smaller routers and just leave the plate on the base. When you have a table, you will only go handheld when a piece is so big that you have to take the tool to the stock rather than the stock to the tool. As for the capability, it will all depend on the bit's you choose and how they can be used. ie a panel raising bit can be used to take light passes and your 690 would not have a problem with it. If you have a panel raising bit with a back cutter then it's an all in one bite cut and the Bosch should be able to do the job, you'll just have to be aware of your feed rate.

That said, you've got a very capable PC690, what project is on the plan that you want another router? My PC690 kit was my 3rd tool I bought after a drill and a circ saw, there were many projects that it did before I even got my table saw. I'd suggest you look at what the next project is and what you know you'll need, it's amazing how quickly clamps, layout tools, and other small tools can add up. And then, you can keep an eye on craigslist, and various sales for getting the next ones on the wish list.
 
#10 ·
A lift & a plate are 2 totally different things, a lift is $300+, a plate is $30 to $50 depending on material. The Rousseau plate I linked has 2 different diameter rings so that you can support the work piece as it enters the bit. I've been using them for 20+ years. Give me a link or a pic of what you're looking at.
 
#11 ·
d suggest you look at what the next project is and what you know you ll need, it s amazing how quickly clamps, layout tools, and other small tools can add up. And then, you can keep an eye on craigslist, and various sales for getting the next ones on the wish list.

- ChefHDAN
Yeah… I'm actually restoring all tools. My Amazon is at $1300 already…
 
#12 ·
Well hell's bells if you've got the budget then go to checkout, what doe the local Craig's List game look like? I had a good weekend last week, and got these at an estate sale, the antiques needed about a 1/2 day soak in evaporust, but they came out nice. I seriously started with a cordless drill, a circ saw, and my PC690 kit. As the needs or opportunities came along I bought more. I did get very lucky when HD changed their tools from grey to orange and all of the stationary tools sold for $200 each. Remember wood is expensive too, get the wood and a plan and start making the saw dust… for example, I think I would REALLY like a domino…. but $1k…. nah cannot justify that right now.
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Wood Metalworking hand tool Gas Facade Hand tool
 

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#13 · (Edited by Moderator)
A lift & a plate are 2 totally different things, a lift is $300+, a plate is $30 to $50 depending on material. The Rousseau plate I linked has 2 different diameter rings so that you can support the work piece as it enters the bit. I ve been using them for 20+ years. Give me a link or a pic of what you re looking at.

- ChefHDAN
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Just going by what model that guy suggested.
 

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#15 ·
I can't speak to those lifts, I know that many LJ's have and tout the Mast-r-lift. I modified my plunge router with the Router Raizer kit which does all that I need for my work, though, if I did get a nice lift, I'd likely be kicking myself for waiting so long but like the Domino, I have not hit a wall where I've said "I HAVE to buy a lift!" Just also noticed this for the Bosch and realized that I was looking at the wrong router before, the edge guide is about $40 which isn't too bad.
 
#17 · (Edited by Moderator)
I'm thinking this is the direction I'm going: (aside from bottom metal rail frame, casters, wood, and cabinet hardware. Anything I'm missing?

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That look good enough to last me
 

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#18 ·
In my opinion , after the router goes into the JessEm lift, you are going to leave it there.

Then you won't have use for the plunge combo, edge guide kits and should just go for the router a-la-carte.

Maybe acquire the hand router accessories for the PC690?
 
#20 ·
Ok. I looked into getting a new lunge for my Porter, and a guide…. and also tried to find a Bosch 1617 motor only. Looks like I'll be spending more this was than the other way. I can't decide the best way to go… is a plunge even neccessary with a good router table ?
 
#21 ·
There are times and projects when a plunge router is the best method, IE stopped dados inside casework. For my 690, the fixed base stays attached to a rousseau router plate to drop into the table or I've found it works for hand held also on many projects. When I need the ability to have a plunge I just pull the fixed base off and put the motor into the plunge.

It all comes down to where you're at for your work, I have 4 routers, The DW611 is the newest one and I've been blown away by it's versatility and surprised by what it'll do, only downer is that is a 1/4" collet only so I've had to get some profiles in 1/4" that I only had 1/2" for.

I see 690's in pawn shops all the time, my 2nd 690 came from a pawn shop for $40, and my DW611 was an included cost in a comissioned job. You don't need to get ALL of the tools at one time, better to get your table set up and then see where you're at, if the motor only winds up equal to the 2 base kit, get the kit and then keep an eye out for another Bosch motor or watch for one with a fixed base. The reason routers wind up multiplying is that when you have a job with multiple profiles it can be easier to just grab another router to finish rather than trying to change a bit and get the set up right.
 
#23 ·
Ok. Next question… am I a fool thinking I can push 800 lbs workstation up and down a ramp? I am now considering this sealed 10×20 shed that I can run wiring through and have AC and heat. They quoted me $2800 to build it and I would have to wire it myself. Is 10×20 enough? Maybe I'd be better to have someone come lay a level foundation for $1000 and build a 20×20 myself? Thoughts on that?
 
#25 ·
For speed and cost it is hard to beat some of the shed builders that build them remotely and deliver on a truck. I am not talking lowes or HD but a quality builder. I wanted to build mine and my wife said oh hell no I am going to order one. We added some decorative extras like a roof elevation and a row of glass over the door. Also some shutters on the windows. I ended up stealing her storage shed and making it a shop. It can get me by until I build something I can spread out into. She gets a patio and screen porch first.

Put a lot of thought into door placement and maybe adding a porch/ deck for outfeed. In a 20' building you will find it difficult to rip an 8' piece.
 
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