Hey everyone, I'm new to woodworking and would like some input on a design I'm considering. The aquarium is 30" long and 18" wide and will hold about 40 gallons of water, so I'm estimating the final weight (with water, substrate, wood and rocks) will be right around 400 pounds.
The stand will be 30" tall, 30" long, and 18" deep so it will be the same dimensions of the tank. The corner vertical pieces will be maple 1×4s, and the center vertical pieces will be 1×3s. They will all be joined will pocket holes and glue. I plan on making a rabbet cuts on the inside edges of the boards on the sides, and gluing in a half inch piece of plywood to close out the sides.
I'll also be using a plywood top so the tank will be fully supported.
Like I said, I'm new to this so I'm open to all feedback.
I built a 120G about 10 years ago. I built a 2X4 frame then applied an outside skin of Plywood. You want to have all the weight move through the 2X4's to the floor. The second thing is to make sure the platform the tank will sit on is flat and level. Sounds obvious, but deviation here will lead to an eventual glass leak. Flat and level. Have fun with the build. https://www.lumberjocks.com/projects/76628
I know why you have those center stiles going all the way up but it looks weird to me. I don't believe you'll lose any strength if the rails go all the way across. You could replace the angle braces on back with vertical 1×4's (doesn't have to be maple) and I feel it would be stronger. I'm afraid the angle braces might push the sides out over time, probably not but I would still do it. 400lbs isn't that much really, 2 grown men sitting on it. Most of the stands on the internet are way overbuilt.
I think the key question is, "Where would the 40 gallons of water go if the stand fails?"
My last tank was a 40 and when I built the stand my key focus was to the point loads and weight distribution. I would not build it the way you're planning, especially with pocket holes and just butt joints. I don't think you need to go all the way to 2×4's for that size tank, I used 2×2 for my 40g, but the frame assembled with dado joints and strong connections. I would suggest you consider building a 2×2 frame similar to the way Beck showed in his post. You can build the frame and then wrap it with your panels. I also agree with Knack that you'll want a solid back on the case to add strength from racking.
I really just meant one 1×4 on each side so the back legs form an L and keep that outside stile rigid. All the weight will go to the corners and down, so 100lb on each leg. If you leave the front center stile you'll have about 67# on each front leg and 100# on each back. (Excluding the stand itself) That's not right but probably close enough.. unless one of our resident engineers wants to do the math. 100# isn't all that much really.
It's not the static weight, it's the wracking that will kill you. If you have a geometrically off design a shove from someone walking by could be catastrophic if the structure folds.
I like 2x vs 1x construction because of the larger end area. This prevents a minor shift from coming off the top of a support.
It's going to be a rimless aquarium, so the entire bottom of the tank needs to be supported. They even require a foam mat between the table top and the aquarium to "absorb" any bumps or imperfections on the surface.
I put a 3/4 plywood on the back with a couple of large holes to allow for canister filter and CO2 tubing to run through to the tank and power cords to run in. I will likely mount a power strip inside. Probably also a light.
I ran the front horizontal beams all the way across, removing the front vertical.
I also rotated the bottom center interior beam so it's no long resting on floor, and instead just acting as a brace between the front and back of the stand. You can see what I mean by looking at the top down picture. Is this OK, or should I keep it as a support touching the floor? I just did that because otherwise it would be visible on the outside.
With a 3/4" back and the rest of it engineered correctly, there is zero chance of failure due to pocket hole joinery. The thing would just tip over because of being top heavy.
My island has a piece of granite that is 4' x 10'. 100% pocket holes. Could dance on it. It's not moving.
Correct as long as he isn't using a frame-less tank. If that is the case he needs a solid top and a tank mat. Will void the warranty on some tanks if a mat is not used.
remember on a fish tank the weight is distributed around the perimeter. theres no need for a plywood top.
make your horizontal pieces run full length.
- tomsteve
Correct as long as he isn t using a frame-less tank. If that is the case he needs a solid top and a tank mat. Will void the warranty on some tanks if a mat is not used.
Yeah, it is a frameless tank, which is why I'll be using a full top for the stand. Plus I just think it makes it look nicer, more like a piece of furniture instead of just an aquarium stand.
I also don't really like the look of the horizontal 1×4 on the top front. I think I'll replace that with a 1×3 instead.
My last build I built the top more like an island counter top, I used 2 pc of 3/4 ply for the substrate and then applied laminate just as you would for a counter top overhang on all 4 sides, which gave lots of strength and support for the top. In addition, I learned from and earlier tank that tanks can make a big damn mess and having the laminate was a great help for the maintenance cleaning. The new design looks much better, the full cleats will also give you some better attachment points for the top.
Why do you think that is better? Not arguing, just wondering what advantage that gives compared to the corner cleats.
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