I'm a brand new woodworker on my first project - a crib for our new grandson. (Yes, I know what some of you are thinking about a crib as a first project, but now I'm committed!) I found LOTS of helpful posts here on LumberJocks in the past when I was researching tools, workshop organization, mallets, etc. and felt the are many responsive, helpful, experienced folks here who might be willing to provide some advice, so here goes. (I could not find a prior question about this issue, so please pardon me if I missed previous answers to this question.)
Currently I am routing (beveling) 36 slats for the crib sides from hard maple on an inexpensive Bosch router table using a 60-degree bevel bit. Near the end of each piece in the routed/beveled area is a slight bump/bulge. It appears to occur at the bit about where the first end of the piece hits the fence on the left side of the bit.
What am I doing wrong or missing, please?
I could sand out these bumps, but I don't relish doing that 72 times if I can fix the problem up front.
Set your router bit for height, and then take a straight stick of your stock and set the fence(s) so that they are either flush or a 1/32 ahead of the bearing. When set this way, the bearing is eliminated from the process and you're just using the fences and should not have any odd cuts as the stock enter or leaves the bit.
Welcome to LJ's and I'm sad to say you've still got a boatload of sanding ahead of you, other than elves, none of us have solved that issue yet.
I would do what was mentioned above with the fences. However if you still get it, try doing a slightly shallower pass, then a final "skim" pass, that should clear it up as there will be less pressure moving rhe piece around.
I m a brand new woodworker on my first project - a crib for our new grandson. (Yes, I know what some of you are thinking about a crib as a first project, but now I m committed!)
I've been one of the most vocal on that topic. In fact, while I have over 5 decades of experience in the shop, I recently turned down a request from a good friend to build a crib for his daughter who is due in a few months. I'm simply not willing to risk it because there are so many safety factors to consider.
Set your router bit for height, and then take a straight stick of your stock and set the fence(s) so that they are either flush or a 1/32 ahead of the bearing. When set this way, the bearing is eliminated from the process and you re just using the fences and should not have any odd cuts as the stock enter or leaves the bit.
Welcome to LJ s and I m sad to say you ve still got a boatload of sanding ahead of you, other than elves, none of us have solved that issue yet.
I ve been one of the most vocal on that topic. In fact, while I have over 5 decades of experience in the shop, I recently turned down a request from a good friend to build a crib for his daughter who is due in a few months. I m simply not willing to risk it because there are so many safety factors to consider.
Agree, when our children were young there were always safety recalls on cribs. All kinds of things can happen that you wouldn't even think of until you read the recalls.
I put feet that project out 3 or 4 in front to move the CG back a bit on childrens bookcases I've built. The tips are beveled to reduce toe stubs as well.
As for your Q, the infeed and outfeed fence sections are not aligned properly. Ideally the outfeed is offset by the depth of cut. Since the depth of cut is difficult to measure and compensate for, you can waste a lot of time and materials trying to get it dialed in perfectly.
Alternately you can treat it like planer snipe and just start long and cut the "snipe" off.
I m a brand new woodworker on my first project - a crib for our new grandson. (Yes, I know what some of you are thinking about a crib as a first project, but now I m committed!)
- Niuhi
I ve been one of the most vocal on that topic. In fact, while I have over 5 decades of experience in the shop, I recently turned down a request from a good friend to build a crib for his daughter who is due in a few months. I m simply not willing to risk it because there are so many safety factors to consider.
I put feet that project out 3 or 4 in front to move the CG back a bit on childrens bookcases I ve built. The tips are beveled to reduce toe stubs as well.
As for your Q, the infeed and outfeed fence sections are not aligned properly. Ideally the outfeed is offset by the depth of cut. Since the depth of cut is difficult to measure and compensate for, you can waste a lot of time and materials trying to get it dialed in perfectly.
Alternately you can treat it like planer snipe and just start long and cut the "snipe" off.
i think ill disagree with that mark i have a jointech smart fence system and the fence is solid so the out feed and infeed are in perfect alignment,the only time i have that problem is if the fence is set back too much and the wood is rising off the bearing rather than the fence.,just as chefdan stated.it's as simple adjustment to solve the problem.
Could the opening in fence be too wide, allowing the piece to drop into the opening as it is pushed the last few inches? More of a question to the group than an answer to the original question as I'm on the uphill side of the learning curve.
I learned the bearing isolation trick watching the Router Workshop on PBS+ The link will take you to a YT Playlist. Those guys did SO MUCH with such a simple table that I still am amazed at how they could do what they did without any of the fancy jigs and other set ups, truly a testament to the old adage that a poor carpenter blames his tools. If you're new to the router you won't be wasting any time watching these episodes.
When you set up your fence, are you taking into account that you are removing wood from the edge and the piece will then want to move toward the fence by the same amount you removed? For example, if you removing 1/16", you need to make sure that the part of the fence after the bit is forward of the feed fence by that 1/16".
I usually put a piece of sacrificial wood across the fence to avoid "snipe". If I had vernier adjustments on the fence, it would be no problem- they could be lined right up to a gnat's eyebrow.
When you set up your fence, are you taking into account that you are removing wood from the edge and the piece will then want to move toward the fence by the same amount you removed? For example, if you removing 1/16", you need to make sure that the part of the fence after the bit is forward of the feed fence by that 1/16".
- gwilki
Yes, you need to adjust the outfeed if your profile is affecting the reference face, but the OP is just cutting an edge bevel and not making any changes to the reference face and both faces of the fence should be co-planar.
To me it seems as simple as either use the bearing or use the fence. If the bearing is making contact then you don't need the fence. With the bearing you control the size of the bevel with the height above the table. When using the fence, make sure that there is no way that the bearing ever touches the side of the piece and that there is no way for the ends to move inward at the beginning and end of the cut.
I learned the bearing isolation trick watching the Router Workshop on PBS+ The link will take you to a YT Playlist. Those guys did SO MUCH with such a simple table that I still am amazed at how they could do what they did without any of the fancy jigs and other set ups, truly a testament to the old adage that a poor carpenter blames his tools. If you re new to the router you won t be wasting any time watching these episodes.
Thanks for reminding me of this show. It was my inspiration to work with wood. In my humble opinion it was the best how-to show I have ever seen. I recommend everyone watch.
Long ago, one Saturday morning, I couldn't sleep and flipped on the TV. Started watching and was hooked. No more sleeping in on Saturdays.
Don't put too much stock in ole' Beanie. He was demoing how a little zig-zag when free routing doesn't matter (it does). At the end of the demo there was a big gap exactly where he said there wouldn't be - and he covered it with his thumb as he pronounced it "perfect".
He did such beautiful work with those specialty jigs - that he never explained how to make.
Take his show cum grano salo!
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