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Whiteside Table Saw Blades (Dimar)

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Forum topic by Everett1 posted 07-01-2020 06:19 PM 1078 views 0 times favorited 34 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Everett1

229 posts in 3343 days


07-01-2020 06:19 PM

Hey Everyone,

Looking for some new saw blades.

I have been using some Forrest blades; spent hours aligning, cleaning, etc. I have a full kerf combination blade and a thing kerf ripping blade.

Both blades i cannot stop from burning the wood. They aren’t dull, i had cleaned them, etc.

So, i’m looking to use something else. I was in the big Orange store, and grabbed a Diablo ripping blade for 28 bucks, figured what the hell, will get me through this little project.

Slapped it in, riving knife was already aligned, ripped, and it was night and day. It did an EXCELLENT job of ripping. I was in awe of how much better it was.

So; shopping now for something of a little more quality.

Anyone have any experience with the Whiteside saw blades? looks like just rebranded Dimar, which they state on their webpage. I see a bunch on Amazon and some other woodworking sites, but for the life of me i can’t find a review.

I love their router bits, and would love to send them my business in blades too.

Thanks!

Ev

-- Ev


34 replies so far

View Andre's profile

Andre

3641 posts in 2615 days


#1 posted 07-01-2020 07:23 PM

I have had a Dimar 24 FTB for many years, liked it so much that when I saw Lee Valley had a 50 t Dimar I picked one up, no regrets, amazing blade so far. Have a 40 t Forrester that has been my go to “good” blade? My last Freud blade
a Premier Fusion developed a warp after about a year of low usage, don’t see myself ever buy another one of there blades.
Was not aware of the Whiteside connection!

-- Lifting one end of the plank.

View gerrym526's profile

gerrym526

287 posts in 4617 days


#2 posted 07-01-2020 10:48 PM

As a woodworker who never met a tool he didn’t like, I don’t want to persuade you not to buy another table saw blade-LOL!
Having said that, I have to confess that I’m puzzled by the wood burning you experienced with the Forrest blades.
I’ve been using Forrest blades for 20 yrs in my tablesaw with very good results-i.e. no burning. Have had them sharpened twice when I noticed it was harder to push hardwoods past the blade. The company sharpens them for a minimal cost and they work great when returned to you.
Did some research on burning wood, and all articles led to the same conclusion-moving the wood too slowly through the blade. I do remember when I bought the Forrest blades years ago that the salesman said-a) make sure you use them in a tablesaw of sufficient power (I have a 3hp Unisaw), and, if you notice burning while cutting, raise the blade much higher above the wood to eliminate it. Being a “safety minded” woodworker, I was a little concerned about blade height when cutting, and was taught to never raise the blade more than a tooth’s dept above the surface being cut. And even at that depth never had burning from the Forrest.
Wanted to share these experiences with you to hopefully help you solve the issue with your current Forrest Blades. I use other blades (e.g. Freud) but always come back to the Forrest as the one that cuts the best.
You might want to start with increasing the feed rate of the wood you’re cutting with the Forrest, and see if that solves the problem. Or, revisit whether your riving knife is pushing the wood against the blade, causing the burn.
Hope this helps-but at the end of the day, if you can’t solve the issues with the Forrest-go buy some new blades!
Gerry

-- Gerry

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Aj2

3187 posts in 2607 days


#3 posted 07-01-2020 11:08 PM

I suspect your riving knife and blade were not playing well with each other.

Good Luck

-- Aj

View Everett1's profile

Everett1

229 posts in 3343 days


#4 posted 07-02-2020 12:46 AM

Thanks all,

First; would love to hear if anyone else has Whiteside/Dimar blade experience.

I have a 3HP Grizzly G0651, so plenty of power.

I spent literally hours aligning, testing, realigning the blade, riving knife and fence. I even have this pimp device from Woodpeckers.https://www.woodpeck.com/woodpeckers-saw-gauge-2-0.html

I got it to a point with barely a smidgen of difference from the front to the back of the blade and fence from the same miter slot. i don’t see how i could get it any better. Even tried multiple depth gauges to be sure something wasn’t funky.

Even with the 20 tooth THIN kerf Forrest rip blade, you have to PUSH, like really push to get it through. I’ve used that blade on 1 single project, and out of the box had the burning problems. I honestly don’t know how i could push any harder.

Then, i throw in this $28 diablo blade, and presto, the saw cuts through it like butter, not hard pushing required either. I did no adjusting of the table or fence to the diablo either, same settings as when the Forrest was in there.

And for what it’s worth, laying flat, the Diablo cheapo and the Forrest $110 rip blade, laying flat, are damn close to the same exact kerf.

Its with this i believe my alignment is all good, riving knife too, as no issues with the cheap blade; no burning, feeds nice and fast, i don’t have to push hard to where it’s scary i’m going to throw my hand right into the blade.

The ONLY thing i can think of; before i got the Grizzly G0651 a couple months ago, for a few years i had been using a 1946 Delta Unisaw, and i had used both these Forrest blades in it. Maybe it could be possible the Unisaw “bent” or made those blades out of whack somehow? Both of these blades in the older Unisaw never ever made me go “wow”.

Here is the thing; am i willing to shell out $120 bucks, a third time, so test that theory? It’s tough, because their reputation is impeccable, they are in NJ (So am I, and I would rather support local). Maybe i’ll reach out to them and see if they’d be willing to take a look at the blades, as right now it’s about 8-10 weeks to get a blade from them, depending what you order.

-- Ev

View SMP's profile

SMP

2268 posts in 714 days


#5 posted 07-02-2020 01:01 AM

Do you have a blade sharpening service nearby? Maybe the old saw was binding and torched the teeth? I had that happen with a wonky aluminum fence. Would shift and pinch the wood and start literally smoking. I took a file to the teeth and fixed it up good enough for a rough work blade(in case nails etc on reclaimed wood), but a sharpening place could do them right.

View Everett1's profile

Everett1

229 posts in 3343 days


#6 posted 07-02-2020 01:02 AM

Hrm; yeah, Forrest is actually not that far away from me. I’ll reach out to them.

-- Ev

View shampeon's profile

shampeon

2157 posts in 2992 days


#7 posted 07-02-2020 01:21 AM

Well, I think the cause has to be the fact you have to really push the piece to get it through. That suggests, to me, that the riving knife is either not in line with the teeth, or you have the wrong width riving knife for the blade.

The test would be to remove the riving knife temporarily and do a test rip (carefully, obvs). If it’s easy to push the piece through, it’s a problem lies with the riving knife.

-- ian | "You can't stop what's coming. It ain't all waiting on you. That's vanity."

View Everett1's profile

Everett1

229 posts in 3343 days


#8 posted 07-02-2020 03:10 AM

Yep; tested without riving knife, still same result.

unless i’m missing something, throwing that Diablo on there without adjusting anything would indicate riving knife is good.

FWIW these blades did this same behavior on my old saw too.

Just did some panel glue up with cuts of that diablo; they were perfect.

We’ll see what Forrest says; i’m at a point in my life that shop time is more precious, and i don’t’ wanna be chasing saw blades =-P

-- Ev

View Aj2's profile

Aj2

3187 posts in 2607 days


#9 posted 07-02-2020 03:52 AM

There’s you problem trying to spin a American blade on a Chinese saw. :)

Good Luck

-- Aj

View shampeon's profile

shampeon

2157 posts in 2992 days


#10 posted 07-02-2020 05:32 AM

Ok, that simplifies things greatly. The Forrest blades are likely dull. It’s for sure cheaper to sharpen the them than to buy new blades. But you might look into why the blades got dull. How it was stored, or cleaned, maybe. Cutting wood with a lot of silica, or just dirty wood, etc. For most hobbyists a quality blade like a Forrest won’t need to be sharpened very often under normal usage.

-- ian | "You can't stop what's coming. It ain't all waiting on you. That's vanity."

View therealSteveN's profile

therealSteveN

5963 posts in 1383 days


#11 posted 07-02-2020 06:04 AM


unless i m missing something, throwing that Diablo on there without adjusting anything would indicate riving knife is good.

- Everett1

All saw blade plates are not the same thickness. Neither are all of the riving knifes. and or splitters. It is likely you have no burning with the Freud, because it is near to, or thicker than the RK. The WWII is evidently thinner than the RK, and you are hanging up on it.

Check with a micrometer, or a caliper the thickness of all 3 items, WWII, Freud, and RK. I and several others are certain that you are going to find out what we are saying.

-- Think safe, be safe

View Tony_S's profile

Tony_S

1336 posts in 3892 days


#12 posted 07-02-2020 10:10 AM

Definitely send the Forrest blades back to them. They should perform flawlessly.
I’ve got…? Don’t really know…probably about 10-15 Dimar blades in the shop among 80-100 others. Mostly big boy blades 14”-16” but there’s a few 10” in the mix as well.
Most(all?) are Crosscut and combination blades. For the money, no real complaints at all. They’re good solid workhorse blades.
I’m comparing them to the others in the shop….Royce, FS Tool, Leitz, Tenryu, Kanefusa…I’d put them at the bottom of that list, but by no means are they low grade blades.
Dimar also lists 2 other brands, Woodpecker and Nova? I have zero experience with them.

If you’re looking for a top notch combination blade(I mean badass) in the 10” range, try out a Tenryu Gold Medal.
As good or better than a Forrest. You WILL smile and say dirty words.

-- “Wise men speak because they have something to say; fools because they have to say something.” – Plato

View Everett1's profile

Everett1

229 posts in 3343 days


#13 posted 07-02-2020 02:34 PM



There’s you problem trying to spin a American blade on a Chinese saw. :)

Good Luck

- Aj2

To be fair, had the same problems an an ACTUAL made in America saw, my 1946 Delta Unisaw. haha

-- Ev

View Everett1's profile

Everett1

229 posts in 3343 days


#14 posted 07-02-2020 02:35 PM


unless i m missing something, throwing that Diablo on there without adjusting anything would indicate riving knife is good.

- Everett1

All saw blade plates are not the same thickness. Neither are all of the riving knifes. and or splitters. It is likely you have no burning with the Freud, because it is near to, or thicker than the RK. The WWII is evidently thinner than the RK, and you are hanging up on it.

Check with a micrometer, or a caliper the thickness of all 3 items, WWII, Freud, and RK. I and several others are certain that you are going to find out what we are saying.

- therealSteveN

Yeah, was thinking that too, but as above, still have the issue without the riving knife AND with the full 1/8” Forrest blade as well.

-- Ev

View Gene Howe's profile

Gene Howe

12221 posts in 4237 days


#15 posted 07-02-2020 02:50 PM

I don’t use a riving knife. All my blades are Tenryu. My rips with their Gold Medal blades are glue ready. And my saws are Shopsmiths.

-- Gene 'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton

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