Band Saw Dust Collection is the PITS >> Solution

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Forum topic by jgt1942 posted 06-19-2020 07:07 PM 486 views 0 times favorited 4 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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264 posts in 2735 days

06-19-2020 07:07 PM

Anybody that has a bandsaw knows that the dust collection is the pits. The good news is that it can be solved. I watch several “solutions” on YouTube but the one I liked best was by Rob Cosman, see

Because each bandsaw is different you will have to experiment and determine what modifications will be necessary for your setup. I have a Jet 20”, except for the super poor dust collection I have been very pleased with it.

Step 1 > watch Rob’s video
Step 2 > Now you need to determine what might work for your bandsaw. Following is my JET looking at the underside of the table. Note that there is NOT a lot of room.

I took some measurements and spent some time trying to determine my next steps.

Along with the measurements, I noticed that the support spoke ribs were NOT flat. this would make attaching magnetics difficult.
Step 3 >I removed the tabletop (gee it is heavy), flipped it over, used a flapper on my grinder, and made everything flat.

Step 4 > Now I could easily see the area I needed to install a pipe.

Step 5 > Now I referenced my image with the measurements and Rob’s video. I decided to use 2” pipe because it would easily fit between the front of my large blade and the front edge of the tabletop in the blade area.
I drilled a 1 1/2” hole (see Rob’s safety tips).
Step 6 > Because the pipe was stopped by the bearing blade guide I decided to flatten one end of the pipe so it would easily fit between the bearing and tabletop. For this, I used my dual ACE heat gun on the high setting to heat the pipe. I constantly rotated the pipe heating about 2” of one end. I kept testing to see if it was hot enough to bend.

Step 7 > when I determined the pipe was hot enough I inserted it into my vice which had some oversize wooden blocks to help ensure I put pressure on the entire section I wanted to compress. Note I did NOT compress the pipe open so that it was closed. I had about 1/2” opening. Also when I inserted it into the vice I insured the drilled hole was on the top.

-- JohnT

4 replies so far

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264 posts in 2735 days

#1 posted 06-19-2020 07:39 PM

Step 8 > now it was time to attach the pipe to a support board but first I had to determine where to put the pipe and magnetics. I marked the board where I wanted the pipe and the locations of the metal spokes/ribs in the tabletop.

BTW here is an image of the compressed end. Later I taped the end closed using duct tape.
I cut a slot in the side of the pipe to accept the bandsaw blade.

If you look down the inside of the pipe you will see a screw and nut. No matter what glue I tried I was not able to attach the pipe to the board without it breaking loose. I gave up and attached with two screws.
Step 9 > using the marks I determined where I wanted to install my magnetics and cut a semi-circle for the pipe.
Here is what I had at this point. Note the position of the hole I drilled in the pipe. Note The magnetics I used were not very strong but that is all I had. If the pipe was hit it would easily move.

Step 10 > Because the pipe was so easily moved I decided to add some support. I clamped a scrap piece of Baltic Birch 1/2” plywood to the tabletop (the top edge of the BB was even with the top edge of the tabletop), and drew lines across the BB (on both sides) to identify where I needed to cut for the pipe. I then rounded the end of the BB. Here is what I had at this point.

Step 11 > I cut out the area for the pipe (not exactly nice looking). To test fit I first clamped a board to the tabletop to ensure the BB piece on the side would be at the correct height. I drilled and tapped two 3/8” holes for knobs I had.

Step 12 Between the knobs and BB I used a fender washer to prevent the knobs from digging into the BB. I also drilled a hole for the tabletop pin, later I made this into a slot thus making it easier to remove. I also framed the pipe to help cover my goof when I cut the slot.
Step 13 > Testing, WOW what a positive difference. I cut several different pieces of wood for about 30 minutes and did not see any dust collecting in the bandsaw. I’m not sure how much dust is being collected but it is FAR better than the 40 percent originally being collected. NOTE the knobs or BB does NOT extend past the top of the tabletop otherwise it would interfere with cutting wood.

-- JohnT

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264 posts in 2735 days

#2 posted 06-19-2020 07:42 PM

Forgot to mention, rather than using my big dust collector to collect the sawdust I’m using a shop vac which will be modified by using a Thien baffle or Dust Deputy. Also, I no longer use any of the dust ports provided by JET, they DO not add any value to the dust collection process.

-- JohnT

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1125 posts in 501 days

#3 posted 06-19-2020 09:10 PM

Do you have a better pic of under the table with the hose installed? I’m trying to get a better idea of how you cleared the lower guides. Or is it just the shape of the hose being flattened fits in that space?

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264 posts in 2735 days

#4 posted 06-20-2020 04:36 PM

Let me know if the following answers your question.
Note the purple pipe cleaner, this was my failed attempt to glue the pipe to the board.
Note above the 45 degree fitting I did remove a small amount of the rib from the tabletop.

I just moved the camera further back to include the BB support.
The pipe coupling is NOT glued. I must remove it to remove the BB brace. None of the pipe fittings have been glued. I did not glue them thinking I might need to modify something.

This is from the other side. When I had the larger blade installed the support board was flush with the right trundle. At this time I had a 1/4” blade installed and the bearing behind the blade was moved to the left thus the pipe almost rested against the bearing forcing the assembly to the left.

I moved the camera closer. The notch in the board proved to be unnecessary. Originally I thought I needed it to clear the thumbscrew.
Note that the blade guide bearing is free to rotate. When I heated the PVC pipe and clamped it in the vise I wanted to squeeze the pipe enough to ensure I would clear the bearing. I just noticed that the pipe is not compressed on the top side. I assume I did not heat that side as much as the bottom side. As it turned out this was a good goof. I wish I could say it was by design.

Here is a straight-on shot with the BB support removed.

Here is where I installed the hose to the Shopvac. I need to modify the coupling to accept the Shopvac hose adaptor then I would not have to remove it.

Ok so I need to modify the coupling and today is a good time to do it. I removed the coupling. With my digital caliper, I measured the inside dia of the coupling and locked the measurement. I did the same for the piece that would go into the coupling using a 2nd caliper and locked the measurement. I found a scrap 4×4 and cut 6” off. This was inserted into my lathe and turned. Inside dia of the coupling was used for the tip of “A”, actually I tuned this section slightly smaller. The “B” section is the dia of the part that will go into the coupling. later I determined that the length of “B” should be longer.

Test fit. Note the clamp on the coupling. I wanted to ensure that one end was not modified.

Note how short the “B” section is, this is when I returned to the lathe and returned this section.

Much better

I placed the base of the wood on my tablesaw with the coupling on the top. Using my heat gun on the high setting I applied heat and conitnuoulsy rotated everything. BTW be sure to wear a leather glove, this is going to get a bit warm. Here the finished piece.

I removed the clamp, note the marks from the clamp.

Not to see if it really worked. WOW success1 Gee that was a good feeling.

Now I don’t have to remove the Rockler hose fitting. NOTE none of the PVC pile was NOT glued and I do NOT plan to glue it.

-- JohnT

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