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Best (Cheapest) Way To Obtain 3HP Motor For Tablesaw???

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Forum topic by seagiant posted 06-06-2020 03:00 PM 1082 views 0 times favorited 41 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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seagiant

22 posts in 2733 days


06-06-2020 03:00 PM

Hi, I have one of the old Craftsman/Emerson 113.xxxxxx Table saws.

Just put a Delta T2 fence on which actually makes it usable but…

I only have a 1 HP motor on it and would like to put a 3 HP and beef it up?

Wondering if anyone here had done this and what is the best way to go???


41 replies so far

View Tedstor's profile

Tedstor

1690 posts in 3410 days


#1 posted 06-06-2020 03:25 PM

Sorry to reply to your question, with a question…..but wouldn’t a 3hp motor require a 220v outlet? Do you have one in your shop?

If not, you might want to look for a slightly more powerful, 15 amp motor.

I also have a 113/T2 combo. I feel your pain. I have a 1.5hp motor, and even it has limitations. I pretty much must use thin kerf blades on thick hardwood, and dado stacks can be a chore.
Anyway, I. looked into upgrading the motor many years ago, but realized the juice wasn’t worth the squeeze. I don’t remember the issues in detail. But 220v was one issue. The cost of the motor was another.
I’d have to pay an electrician to run a 220 circuit (and it would be a long run, clear across the house). And I believe the cheapest motor, of decent quality, was like $300. Between these expenses, I decided I’d hold off on 3hp until I bought a cabinet saw.

But I’ll watch this thread in the hopes that I’m wrong l, and there’s a good way to get this done.

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

8097 posts in 2976 days


#2 posted 06-06-2020 03:33 PM

IMO, you are best leaving it as designed and seeking out a new, more powerful saw if that is what you need. Putting a 3hp (real HP, not ‘developed’ or ‘peak’ fake HP) would be exceeding what the saw was designed for, and could result in some serious damage. You could get away with 1.5, but 3hp and up is where cabinet saws and their cast iron guts are needed.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

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Tedstor

1690 posts in 3410 days


#3 posted 06-06-2020 03:40 PM



IMO, you are best leaving it as designed and seeking out a new, more powerful saw if that is what you need. Putting a 3hp (real HP, not developed or peak fake HP) would be exceeding what the saw was designed for, and could result in some serious damage. You could get away with 1.5, but 3hp and up is where cabinet saws and their cast iron guts are needed.

Cheers,
Brad

- MrUnix

Yeah. To piggyback. This reply also reminded me of another point. The 113 motor mount seems to be ‘barely adequate’ enough to support the weight of the existing motor. I’m not confident a significantly bigger motor wouldn’t cause as many problems as it solves.

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seagiant

22 posts in 2733 days


#4 posted 06-06-2020 03:46 PM

Hi, Thanks, I have 220V in my shop no problem.

As far as this saw taking a 3HP Motor, I see no problem.

It has “cast iron guts”, I do not do a lot of woodwork more metal work but a small table saw does come in handy at times!

What is stopping me is the price of the motor, didn’t know if someone here had a line on how to get a suitable 3HP Motor for a decent price???

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GrantA

2573 posts in 2185 days


#5 posted 06-06-2020 04:14 PM

Whereabouts in FL are you? I’m just north of Tallahassee in GA, if you’d be interested in upgrading to a 3hp cabinet saw I’ve got a unisaw and a PM66 I’d part with.

As for replacing the motor, not sure where you’re looking or what you think it should cost but here's a weg motor under $200, that’s about as cheap as you’ll find I’m thinking. Still lipstick on a pig though. I also have a 113 craftsman with a t2 fence, it is what it is. Nothing at all wrong with it but no way I’d put a 2+hp motor on a contractor saw. Just sayin…

Oh and if you do the motor upgrade I’d strongly suggest a soft start setup

View JIMMIEM's profile

JIMMIEM

69 posts in 1619 days


#6 posted 06-06-2020 04:22 PM



Hi, Thanks, I have 220V in my shop no problem.

As far as this saw taking a 3HP Motor, I see no problem.

It has “cast iron guts”, I do not do a lot of woodwork more metal work but a small table saw does come in handy at times!

What is stopping me is the price of the motor, didn t know if someone here had a line on how to get a suitable 3HP Motor for a decent price???

- seagiant


I’ve got the Craftsman 113.xxxxxxx also. I put on the Delta T2, machined pulleys, link belt and PALS. I’ve been looking to replace the 1 hp motor with something bigger. The ones made in the USA, Leeson, Baldor, etc are pricey. I started looking at the Grizzly motors which are less expensive and seem to get good reviews.
From what I have read the concerns about upgrading to a larger motor are the size, shaft position, and weight. I can’t find any definitive info on the subject.

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

8097 posts in 2976 days


#7 posted 06-06-2020 04:44 PM

From what I have read the concerns about upgrading to a larger motor are the size, shaft position, and weight. I can t find any definitive info on the subject.
- JIMMIEM

There are actually multiple valid concerns regarding exceeding the design specifications. It’s kind of like putting a small block chevy motor in a VW. Yes, you could do it… but it wasn’t designed for a motor that size, so you need to address other areas as well. Motor mounts, drive train, suspension, brakes, etc…

On the saw in question – at this point we are guessing that it’s a contractor saw since it hasn’t been specified (emerson made many different models of saw). But they were designed with certain constraints in mind. As Ted points out, the hinged motor mount is not really all that robust, and mounting a larger motor will most likely require some subtle modifications (as well as a new pulley since it is doubtful the original will have the same shaft size). The drive system consists of a single belt, while in most saws with 3+ hp you see a serpentine or multiple v-belts. The arbor for that saw was designed for less HP, so uses smaller bearings and castings. Wiring will need to be upgraded, if for nothing else than the fact that you can’t really direct-switch a 3hp motor with the existing switch – it needs to go through a contactor (relay) that has sufficiently sized contact points.

I guess the point is, and what I suggested above, is that for what you will spend trying to upgrade your emerson saw, you could get a more powerful saw that was designed for the task. If you really like your fence, it is easily transferred to another saw if needed. A nice cabinet saw for $500 is entirely possible, and you can sell your emerson to recover some of that cost – and be at about what you were looking at spending for a new motor.

Just my 2c. Just throwing out some things to consider.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

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seagiant

22 posts in 2733 days


#8 posted 06-06-2020 05:15 PM

Hi, Thanks Brad…sounds like good advice, those 3HP Motors are pricey.

Maybe a link belt and keeping the blade sharp is all I can do.

I really have no need for a big cabinet saw, but do need a table saw now and then.

Might just have to get happy with what I have and keep it tuned up!

View awsum55's profile

awsum55

767 posts in 1286 days


#9 posted 06-06-2020 05:30 PM


Might just have to get happy with what I have and keep it tuned up!

- seagiant

Just take smaller bites and push the wood through a little slower. I had an under powered saw for years before I upgraded. It was a worm drive with a 7” blade screwed to a piece of plywood and flipped upside down.

-- John D, OP, KS

View bigblockyeti's profile

bigblockyeti

6581 posts in 2498 days


#10 posted 06-06-2020 05:47 PM

A sharp, thin kerf blade and a 1.5 hp motor would make that saw work quite well, and most importantly, safely.

-- "Lack of effort will result in failure with amazing predictability" - Me

View sansoo22's profile

sansoo22

906 posts in 432 days


#11 posted 06-06-2020 06:35 PM

I don’t have any input on saw motors but I will share a pointer I’ve picked up using a contractor saw. Some woods will burn slightly with the slower feed rate…looking at you cherry. If that edge is going to show I just cut 1/32 larger than needed and take a hand plane to the edge. A couple passes with the plane its at the dimension I need, the burn marks are gone, and I have a smooth edge ready for finish.

View downsizing's profile

downsizing

12 posts in 59 days


#12 posted 06-06-2020 07:05 PM

In this area at least, you can get old Craftsman table saws for under $100 with a good 1.5hp motor. And some of them can be wired for 240v. I have a Delta contractor saw with a 1.5hp 120/240v motor. Sometimes I wire it for 240 to do hardwood, it is very capable.

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seagiant

22 posts in 2733 days


#13 posted 06-06-2020 07:07 PM

Hi, Thanks Fellas!

One thing going for me is, I now have a straight slick fence that actually works pretty good, and that helps if you want to slow feed the saw.

I’m retired, so no rush I guess!!!

Put a link belt on her, and run her I guess, as I said, don’t run it every day!

View AndyJ1s's profile

AndyJ1s

331 posts in 532 days


#14 posted 06-06-2020 07:07 PM

Assuming the existing saw has a single V-belt, if you put on a 3HP motor, the belt will slip and burn before you ever get that HP to the blade.

Look at 3HP saws. They either have multiple V belts, or the new style, poly-v flat belts. For a good reason.

Good, sharp thin kerf, dedicated (separate) rip and crosscut blades, as mentioned earlier, will get the most out of your saw.

-- Andy - Arlington TX

View HorizontalMike's profile

HorizontalMike

7873 posts in 3691 days


#15 posted 06-06-2020 07:29 PM



...[snip]...
I only have a 1 HP motor on it and would like to put a 3 HP and beef it up?
Wondering if anyone here had done this and what is the best way to go???
- seagiant

Think Grizzly. I have the G0690 3hp 10in TS. Now discontinued but they still sell the G0691 with a longer rail can be very useful. IMO, the TS extension is crap, however replacing that with the cast-iron router extension Grizzly T10222 - 20in x 27in Router Table Extension works out great!

Bottom line is that the above is at a reasonable price, good quality, and much less than going top-of-the-line at ~$3,500—$5,000. Just my opinion and NO, I do not wish to start a “This TS vs That TS”. Just do a search and you will find more than a boatload of results/arguments. If you are that tight on $$$, then you may need to make-do with what you have, otherwise step up and enjoy a better grade TS. ;-)

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

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