For sled: Flip stop or wood and clamp?

  • Advertise with us

« back to Jigs & Fixtures forum

Forum topic by Mark Shultz posted 05-30-2020 01:55 AM 728 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View Mark Shultz's profile

Mark Shultz

160 posts in 3605 days

05-30-2020 01:55 AM

What do you prefer?

8 replies so far

View Madmark2's profile


3061 posts in 1803 days

#1 posted 05-30-2020 02:00 AM

Flip stop for repeatability.

-- The hump with the stump and the pump!

View Walker's profile


465 posts in 1687 days

#2 posted 05-30-2020 02:03 AM

Wood and clamp for simplicity and price. Chamfer the bottom corner, as well as the bottom of the fence, to prevent sawdust from building up and throwing off the measurement.

-- ~Walker

View Andybb's profile


3329 posts in 1818 days

#3 posted 05-30-2020 02:16 AM

Both work. It just depends on how fancy you want it to look.

-- Andy - Seattle USA

View Rich's profile


7356 posts in 1804 days

#4 posted 05-30-2020 04:24 AM

You want one flip and one fixed block clamped for frames. Set the block for the long member—rail or stile—and the flip stop for the other. The key to perfect frames is equal length rails and equal length stiles. Plus, if you want to mess with grain patterns, you can.

Really, you don’t even need a fixed stop. Sometimes having two flip stops is more flexible when you need to square an end before cutting to length.

-- Half of what we read or hear about finishing is right. We just don’t know which half! — Bob Flexner

View Redoak49's profile


5366 posts in 3203 days

#5 posted 05-30-2020 11:08 AM

I put a T Track on mine and made some stop blocks. Many ways to do the same thing.

View Rick  Dennington's profile

Rick Dennington

7170 posts in 4409 days

#6 posted 05-30-2020 02:31 PM

I have 4 sleds so I use both.

-- " There's a better way.....find it"...... Thomas Edison.

View splintergroup's profile


5740 posts in 2437 days

#7 posted 05-30-2020 02:53 PM

I like the absolute rigidity of a stop block, a flip stop has a longer cantilever which introduces measurable slop. That said however, often the lost few thousandths of repeatability of a flip stop makes no difference and the convenience is hard to beat, especially when you want to (or forgot to) square an end before cutting to length.

My new Jess-em miter has a flip stop that I measured (with a dial indicator) to have 1/64” of “slop” with only minor changes in the pressure applied against it. The utility is unquestionable.

View AlanWS's profile


158 posts in 4773 days

#8 posted 06-03-2020 05:20 PM

I use a block glued to the end of a flexible batten. This lets me clamp it wherever I want, including positions extended a few feet longer than the sled. The other thing it does is lets me spring the block out of the way for one cut to clean up an end, then allow it to spring down to cut to length. This spring is perpendicular to the stop direction, so it keeps any length inaccuracy under 0.001”, which is good enough for me.

It takes about 2 minutes to make, plus glue drying, and costs only scraps to make. It does require that you have a clamp. If you want fine adjust after clamping, you can add a screw.

-- Alan in Wisconsin

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics