Wood and clamp for simplicity and price. Chamfer the bottom corner, as well as the bottom of the fence, to prevent sawdust from building up and throwing off the measurement.
You want one flip and one fixed block clamped for frames. Set the block for the long member-rail or stile-and the flip stop for the other. The key to perfect frames is equal length rails and equal length stiles. Plus, if you want to mess with grain patterns, you can.
Really, you don't even need a fixed stop. Sometimes having two flip stops is more flexible when you need to square an end before cutting to length.
I like the absolute rigidity of a stop block, a flip stop has a longer cantilever which introduces measurable slop. That said however, often the lost few thousandths of repeatability of a flip stop makes no difference and the convenience is hard to beat, especially when you want to (or forgot to) square an end before cutting to length.
My new Jess-em miter has a flip stop that I measured (with a dial indicator) to have 1/64" of "slop" with only minor changes in the pressure applied against it. The utility is unquestionable.
I use a block glued to the end of a flexible batten. This lets me clamp it wherever I want, including positions extended a few feet longer than the sled. The other thing it does is lets me spring the block out of the way for one cut to clean up an end, then allow it to spring down to cut to length. This spring is perpendicular to the stop direction, so it keeps any length inaccuracy under 0.001", which is good enough for me.
It takes about 2 minutes to make, plus glue drying, and costs only scraps to make. It does require that you have a clamp. If you want fine adjust after clamping, you can add a screw.
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