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Forum topic by Yakob posted 05-29-2020 03:37 PM 327 views 0 times favorited 17 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Yakob

10 posts in 37 days


05-29-2020 03:37 PM

Hi all, I’m new here to the forum.

I bought a G0833p table saw about 2 years ago. It fit what I was looking for perfectly and has served me well. I felt my money was better spent on entry level “heavy” saw instead of the portability features a bigger jobsite saw. I’ve only used it off and on since then for little projects here and there, and in the last few weeks have started building up my shop to do more.

Unfortunately the saw has started giving me fits. It will not get up to speed before tripping the overload breaker ONLY when there is a dado stack in it and ONLY after the first start up. It seems the extra mass of the dado stack is exploiting some failure within it. It has never felt low powered and still cuts and starts great with a regular blade in it. It does not ever trip the breaker during cutting, only on startup with the dado.

So far I have:
replaced the thermal breaker switch in case of failure
felt and rotated everything to make sure bearings aren’t making noise/dragging/getting hot
replaced both capacitors
disassembled and cleaned the centrifugal switch

None of these things have been to any avail. I have noticed that the motor does seem to warm up pretty quickly i.e. warm to the touch in about 15 seconds on that first start up. From what my research has told me, I think the startup windings are fried (maybe partially).

So, it’s a frustrating piece of machinery now. There is no Frame ID on the tag. I think I need a new motor, but the lack of frame info makes me think that this is kind of a ba$tard design in a Chinese saw and I won’t be able to find a brand-name motor like Leeson to replace what is in there. I don’t really want to buy another of this Chinese motor…this one has failed with fairly light use and just out of warranty.

Does anybody have this saw that can look at the tag to see if the frame info is there, or if it is blank like mine?

To continue the rant, I became pretty disappointed in the saw once it started having these issues. Grizzly really seems to hit the mark for price but the 1 year warranty is probably going to kill them for any future purchases from me. Jet stuff can be had for barely more money or even less for a “like product” when they are running the 15% off sale…with a 5 year warranty instead of the 1 year.


17 replies so far

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CaptainKlutz

3160 posts in 2264 days


#1 posted 05-30-2020 01:32 AM

Don’t own that saw, but here are some comments:

You have already checked most of the possible issues. But it reads like you have current limitation at start up? If your power supply line has too much resistance, which limits the current, you can have under voltage problem with heavy load. This will generate similar problems to what you see.
Suggest:

- Check the power switch. Look for loose/burned/melted connections. Bypass the switch with wire directly to motor and see if it starts up faster.

- Check power cord and outlet.
: If running 120v, ensure your have proper 12 gauge cord and all the internal connections of plug/receptacle are OK.
: If running 240v supply, this kind of problem is likely in motor/switch unless your extension cord is over 150ft long, but check all wiring regardless.

- Call Grizzly. The tech service department is pretty good about troubleshooting.

The motor in saw appears to be a type of ‘Unisaw’ frame motor, using NEMA number 145Y; but all I see is one mounting tab on parts list?
Grizzly sells a replacement 2HP motor for $231, which will be near cheapest 2HP frame motor available anywhere, IMHO.

If you saw uses the 145Y frame, Grizzly installed some conventional 56 frame motors in the G1023 saw using an adapter plate that is still available. Have no idea if this will fit your saw or not?

Best Luck.

-- If it wasn't for bad luck, I wouldn't have no luck at all, - Albert King - Born Under a Bad Sign released 1967

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Madmark2

1362 posts in 1358 days


#2 posted 05-30-2020 01:57 AM

I had one that the power switch started failing and eventually died. I took it apart and one pair of contacts on the switch were melted away.

Make sure you’re not running 110v to a 220v saw, or one motor winding is open.

-- The hump with the stump and the pump!

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Yakob

10 posts in 37 days


#3 posted 05-30-2020 02:31 AM

I’m on 240v, and forgot to mention that I have tried a new switch as well.

I get the failure without an extension cord, direct into an outlet. I don’t suspect I have low voltage in the garage. By now I feel as though I would have noticed that in other tools plus I have a big air compressor that runs its buns off until the tank is hot and never misses a lick!

Also of note: I can bypass the thermal breaker (tsk tsk…had to try it) and the saw will start up and run fine.

It seems like the front (pulley end) of tbe motor has a cast mounting tab, I don’t see that in the 145Y frame? Is that part of the trunnion?? Yes, the tab that comes out of the side is a single tab, not a double like I see on the 145Y.

The Grizzly motor being dirt cheap is part of what got me into this mess!

Thanks for the replies!

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Yakob

10 posts in 37 days


#4 posted 05-30-2020 02:32 AM

Also have verified the connections in the motor. No arcing or melting going on anywhere.

I’ve hooked up a multimeter in line and there is no discernible voltage drop during startup either which to me equates to plenty of current.

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CaptainKlutz

3160 posts in 2264 days


#5 posted 05-30-2020 03:13 AM

One more strange idea, since you have checked most things;
Check if any of the internal wires are unusually warm while the motor is operating. Especially near the connections. A bad terminal or crimp on end of wire will cause low voltage/current limit. Could have some broken strands inside the wire from when the cable was made.

Also of note: I can bypass the thermal breaker (tsk tsk…had to try it) and the saw will start up and run fine.
- Yakob

When say ‘start up and run fine’, does the motor come up to speed any faster?
If no, then call Grizzly and discuss the motor problem. If yes, then might have questionable thermal breaker as replacement, oI would think there is something wacky in wiring from breaker to motor.

Best Luck!

-- If it wasn't for bad luck, I wouldn't have no luck at all, - Albert King - Born Under a Bad Sign released 1967

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Yakob

10 posts in 37 days


#6 posted 05-30-2020 03:30 AM

The motor doesn’t speed up any faster without the breaker in place, and I’ve already replaced it to rule it out.

I will feel around on the wiring to see if it gets hot while it runs tomorrow. That’s one thing I haven’t done.

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Yakob

10 posts in 37 days


#7 posted 05-30-2020 01:47 PM

I started it up today and let it run for about 1/2 hour. Nothing is noticeably warm but the motor case itself, which is HOT…way too hot to touch.

All connections are tight and clean, all switches and breakers and wiring are good. New capacitors and a working centrifugal switch. Motor will start with no thermal breaker in line.

I’m thinking I might as well get the new motor on order. It will probably be here before Grizzly gets me off hold in a call!

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GR8HUNTER

7544 posts in 1483 days


#8 posted 05-30-2020 02:12 PM

i guess you dont have an electric motor service place by you that maybe you could call :<))

-- Tony---- Reinholds,Pa.------ REMEMBER TO ALWAYS HAVE FUN

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Yakob

10 posts in 37 days


#9 posted 05-30-2020 02:59 PM

I haven’t yet looked for a motor shop nearby, or really even thought about it for too long. At $230 For a full replacement I can’t imagine the shop being an economically savvy option but maybe I’m wildly overestimating their prices.

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bigJohninvegas

773 posts in 2232 days


#10 posted 05-30-2020 05:46 PM

With all that you have done already. I would look for a local electric motor shop. I got
a company here. Been here forever. The guy is very reasonable, miracle worker.
One of those if he can’t fix it, It ain’t broke kind of shops. lol.

-- John

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Yakob

10 posts in 37 days


#11 posted 05-30-2020 07:00 PM

I’ll call around on Monday and if they have a minimum charge of even $100 I’ll probably just order new and consider myself ahead.

View GR8HUNTER's profile

GR8HUNTER

7544 posts in 1483 days


#12 posted 05-30-2020 07:18 PM

my motor shop is very trusted good guy looked at my motor for free then gave an estimate to fix it but thats here :<)) YMMV

-- Tony---- Reinholds,Pa.------ REMEMBER TO ALWAYS HAVE FUN

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CaptainKlutz

3160 posts in 2264 days


#13 posted 05-30-2020 07:27 PM

My local shops charge a $20-50 testing fee, but only if you do not pay them to fix it, and it’s easily repairable.
Changing switch and cap costs me $60 last time I missed that the centrifugal switch had broken connection underneath the plate, and was blowing up the capacitor(s) I installed.
Be sure to call around and check your options. I get the best labor pricing with smaller shop (3 man), than the largest industrial motor warehouse, even though the large warehouse sells me capacitors cheaper than WWW. YMMV

-- If it wasn't for bad luck, I wouldn't have no luck at all, - Albert King - Born Under a Bad Sign released 1967

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Yakob

10 posts in 37 days


#14 posted 05-30-2020 07:40 PM

Hey that sounds promising!

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Yakob

10 posts in 37 days


#15 posted 06-01-2020 07:58 PM

I called 2 motor shops today.

#1 = no answer #2 = “you’ve already done everything I would do (for $45) if you brought the motor to me”

I proceeded to call Grizzly, and am waiting for a call back now. The rep on the phone said the specific issue was a new one to him, so he had to run it up the flag pole.

Motors are back ordered through mid-July, so that potentially adds a little more insult to injury…

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