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Cutting board material for miter track runners

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Forum topic by Mark Shultz posted 05-23-2020 10:07 PM 253 views 0 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Mark Shultz

147 posts in 3121 days


05-23-2020 10:07 PM

Has anybody used the white cutting board material to cut strips to use as runners on jigs and such? It’s nice and slick,, and doesn’t expand or contract, but potentially too soft. I’m not sure if it’s UHMW, or some other plastic.


7 replies so far

View bondogaposis's profile

bondogaposis

5732 posts in 3082 days


#1 posted 05-23-2020 10:12 PM

The problem I have had with it is that when you drive a screw into it, it spreads to the sides, so it no longer fits the miter slot. If you are real careful when you drive your screws you can minimize it.

-- Bondo Gaposis

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LesB

2509 posts in 4174 days


#2 posted 05-24-2020 12:24 AM

I have used HDPE polyurethane which is similar and avaiable at most wood working stores in various sizes. It may be the same stuff in the cutting boards you mentioned.

Bondo makes a good point so pre drill the material.

-- Les B, Oregon

View PurpLev's profile

PurpLev

8568 posts in 4379 days


#3 posted 05-24-2020 12:47 AM



The problem I have had with it is that when you drive a screw into it, it spreads to the sides, so it no longer fits the miter slot. If you are real careful when you drive your screws you can minimize it.

- bondogaposis

If you pre drill and thread the material it shouldn’t widen it

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View WoodenDreams's profile

WoodenDreams

1032 posts in 642 days


#4 posted 05-24-2020 02:30 AM

I you cut it to size, why not use it. You can always make another runner later if needed. I made a couple of table saw sleds with extra 3/4” aluminum T-Tracks I had, for guides in the miter slot of the table saw. Works great and no expansion issues. The ones I made with wood runners, had expansion issues, too tight at times.

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

7991 posts in 2930 days


#5 posted 05-24-2020 02:55 AM

The problem with expansion is when you use a countersunk flat head screw, as it will wedge out the sides. You can minimize that problem by drilling a flat countersunk bore (ie: w/forstner bit) and using a flat button head or ‘cheese head’ screw.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View therealSteveN's profile

therealSteveN

5545 posts in 1305 days


#6 posted 05-24-2020 05:26 AM



The problem I have had with it is that when you drive a screw into it, it spreads to the sides, so it no longer fits the miter slot. If you are real careful when you drive your screws you can minimize it.

- bondogaposis

Yes, this, and when it gets hot, they start to go around corners, or at least get the wiggles pretty bad.

There are aluminum guide bars on U Tube that are from overseas, they are quite adjustable, and ALL of the sellers insist on using MM sizing. Rest assured they are perfect 3/8” deep, x 3/4” wide, and are a Lot less than a cutting board.

-- Think safe, be safe

View squazo's profile

squazo

153 posts in 2376 days


#7 posted 05-25-2020 02:42 AM

I usually use cheap aluminum flat bar. 1/4 inch thick.

the last sled I made (last week) I tried something new, I had aluminum that was 1/2 the width of my miter slots, So I made two sleds put them in the slots wedged them apart, and glued them together with the fence, and a front board, fit perfect and I didnt have to get perfect fitting runners.

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