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Accurate Crosscuts

3K views 33 replies 25 participants last post by  MadMark 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Hey,

Just wondering what everyone is using to get accurate crosscuts? I have a mitre saw that is ok for smaller cuts eg. up to 6" or so but I've never been able to get it perfectly set up for wider cuts. Same thing with my homemade TS sled.

I do a lot of dovetailed casework in the 12-20" width range and find that I have to spend a frustrating amount of time using a shooting board to get the pieces square. Seems like regardless of whether people use a sliding MS or a TS sled, they are not perfect…I've considered getting the Sawstop sliding crosscut table for my TS and/or a different MS but kind of think that I'll have the same difficulty regardless of my setup.
 
#3 ·
Sled based on both miter slots. Starts from accurate easy sliding rails, and build up from there. Make it right, and most importantly test it for accuaracy and adjust using the William Ng school of thought with a 5 cut. Once you have it nailed down you are good for a long while.

With use, getting moved, lifted etc etc etc all of them will loose accuaracy over time. Usually you will feel it in the rails, or the fence. When you do, or heaven forbid you notice poor cuts, build another to replace the old one.

Most accurate, and safest crosscut you can have. Offcuts are also carried through the blade, so no little piece of potential rocket left next to the blade, and you don't have to keep waiting for the saw to come to a stop to safely pluck away the offcuts.

Build goals are something light enough to not make you hate using it, but big enough to be useful. 1/2" ply is plenty for the deck.
 
#8 ·
Automotive design Automotive exterior Rectangle Gas Table

Just kidding….but not.
I've got an Altendorf and an SCM in the shop. Not as pretty as the one above, both 15-20 years old…but both provide dead nutz repeatable crosscuts.
But with that said…..
I ve considered getting the Sawstop sliding crosscut table for my TS and/or a different MS but kind of think that I ll have the same difficulty regardless of my setup.
- Manitario
What makes you think the Sawstop sliding table would fail you?
I've never used one so I can't speak from personal experience, but they seem to be designed and built on the same/similar mechanics as the Euro sliders. It's a proven design used my most major manufacturers.
I didn't read any reviews at all either….maybe they're crapola. I would doubt that though given their reputation for quality saws.
 

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#10 ·
I see many comments here are answering about small dimension stock, not the larger panels you are talking about. Small stuff, my TS with Osborn gauge or one of my sleds. If really anal, I now have a Lyon miter triller. Love it.
For the larger panels you are talking about, I see no reason a good sled would not be dead on if a proper blade. Might want to go full kerf and check your sleds and saw alignment. I can do 4 cuts around a 12 inch square and not see light against my try square.

Table Saws, no matter the sled, have a very hard time with 16 foot moulding. So, keeping my miter saw.

In some comments, the SS sled may or may not be compatible with any other brand of saw. Investigate for yourself. Some may consider the need to drill a hole as incompatible, don't know, so check it out.
 
#11 ·
Falls into, a lot of ways to skin a cat.

- therealSteveN
Method #103: Belt sander 8^)

Without a sliding table saw, you need someway to engage the saw miter slots for alignment before cutting begins. The most direct way is a large sled with long runners.

Beyond that, the aforementioned sliding table saw, there always is a radial arm saw or track saw.
 
#12 ·
Thanks for the comments. It sounds like the majority use TS sleds; I guess that I need to either make mine lighter so that it isn't such a PITA to use it and/or also work to make it dead-on accurate.
 
#14 · (Edited by Moderator)

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#23 ·
I have an Incra 1000HD in a Miter Express. It s my everyday sled for everything but dadoe s. . I keep it right behind the saw, takes no time to put on or off. The biggest panel I ve cut is 18", but this is good up to 24" cross cut.

I believe in cry once, and haven t cried over this since I got it.

https://www.incra.com/miter_gauges-miter_express.html

https://www.incra.com/miter_gauges-miter1000hd.html

Wood Table Floor Flooring Gas

Wood Hardwood Wood stain Table Flooring


- hairy
+1 on the incra 1000HD and miter express. IMO this is an awesome combo. Incra gave me a 10% discount on my first order. This was last year so…
 

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#26 ·
Square cuts start with a saw that is set up accurately. There must be zero slop in the miter gauge table slot. Then the miter gauge must be precisely 90° to the blade. Here is where a precision square is necessary. Machines in a factory are set up for precision cuts; that is why they can produce quality furniture or cabinets; no reason why it can't be done in a home shop. I have a Jet cabinet saw (30+ years old) that has been set up to insure a perfect 90° cut. It takes time to properly set up a saw, but once done, you don't need expensive after market gadgets. A sled will get you a square cut, but that also has to be set up just like any other device. Many say "you don't need machinist precision in woodworking", but that is not true. Square is square whether it be in metal working or woodworking.
 
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