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Forum topic by Mattyj1907 posted 05-01-2020 06:51 PM 371 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Mattyj1907

4 posts in 1502 days


05-01-2020 06:51 PM

Topic tags/keywords: epoxy humidor box finish

It’s my first time using epoxy as a finish and I chose to try it on a humidor build. I was hoping the epoxy would run over the sides and the recess would just drip off. Instead the excess epoxy collected at the bottom edge, creating a large lip. Left me wondering if my epoxy is too thick? Does anyone have a recommendation or method for coating a small box in epoxy? Any feedback is appreciated.


10 replies so far

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John Smith

2722 posts in 1045 days


#1 posted 05-01-2020 07:04 PM

there are hundreds of different types of epoxy
with hundreds designed for specific applications.

if you could expand on what you have, the temperature in the room
at the time of mix and pour, how you mixed it, yada yada yada,
would help a little more.

.

-- there is no educational alternative to having a front row seat in the School of Hard Knocks. --

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splintergroup

4048 posts in 2104 days


#2 posted 05-01-2020 07:13 PM

That is just the nature of fluid flow 8^)

Thinner would just mean smaller “epoxycicles”

As with spraying a finish, you need to apply only enough to wet the surface, you want the effect of gravity not to overcome the viscosity of the epoxy.

Two possible solutions I can think of. One would be to try and only apply thin coats, spray if possible? Two would be to only apply to horizontal surfaces. Basically mask off the sides, apply, let cure, then move onto the next surface. A lot of extra time/effort I know, but the only areas that would need cleaning up would be the thin seams where the masking met the epoxy.

One question I have is why epoxy? I know you are experimenting, but that is a super difficult finish (though darn tough!) Ii is super for a table top (applied when horizontal), but the six sides of a box are a whole new level.

A good sprayed catalyzed lacquer is also very tough, even multiple coats of polyurethane.

The box looks fantastic, I like how that dyed (maple?) looks with the black!

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Mattyj1907

4 posts in 1502 days


#3 posted 05-01-2020 07:20 PM

Ok, sorry about that. The ambient temp of the room was approx 68 degrees and has been since. (Using the wife’s craft room in the house). It’s a brand called ksresins which cures to the touch in 12 hours, full cure in 24. Mixed it equal part with a metal stir stick. Two minutes, scrape sides, stir for two more minutes. Let sit for approx two minutes before pour. Did not do a seal coat first. My wife uses the epoxy for coating tumblers.

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LeeRoyMan

1422 posts in 609 days


#4 posted 05-01-2020 07:26 PM

As it’s sill in the “flow” cycle, you need to chase it around with a brush. Not brushing the side but removing the build up from the bottom, eventually the “drips” will stop forming.

View EdWhite's profile

EdWhite

1 post in 89 days


#5 posted 07-28-2020 01:19 AM

Those drips are much easier to remove while the epoxy is still setting up, a 3×5 card swiped across the bottom edge will clean those off, till the epoxy sets up enough to quit flowing, usually several hours.

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MrUnix

8239 posts in 3081 days


#6 posted 07-28-2020 01:39 AM

Resin is a very popular finish, particularly in acrylic pour art and similar, where it levels out the rough surface and is allowed to flow over the edges. As others have mentioned, you need to occasionally clean up the excess drips as they form while the epoxy is still fluid and flowing. It also helps to tape the underside so it can be easily removed once cured.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

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MrUnix

8239 posts in 3081 days


#7 posted 07-28-2020 01:49 AM

- duplicate removed -

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View AlanWS's profile

AlanWS

86 posts in 4440 days


#8 posted 07-28-2020 01:23 PM

Removing drips most easily depends on when you do it. A rag works as it’s wet, wiping at the bottom where you put the tape MrUnix prescribed. After it hardens but before it fully cures, a blade of some sort works best. I prefer a block plane for this. After it fully cures, the plane will still work, or you can sand.

-- Alan in Wisconsin

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Mattyj1907

4 posts in 1502 days


#9 posted 07-28-2020 03:37 PM

I appreciate the recent feedback, trying to psyche myself into giving it a second try. Do you guys have a specific product you recommend? I was thinking of trying a new epoxy my wife has been using which is less viscous. I feel it might be helpful.

View Rich's profile (online now)

Rich

5974 posts in 1471 days


#10 posted 07-28-2020 04:18 PM

Check out System Three MirrorCoat. I’m sure there are other quality options out there, but System Three is available locally, so that’s what I use.

-- Half of what we read or hear about finishing is right. We just don’t know which half! — Bob Flexner

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