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Forum topic by OfficerDoofy posted 04-29-2020 09:57 PM 661 views 0 times favorited 35 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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OfficerDoofy

15 posts in 74 days


04-29-2020 09:57 PM

Topic tags/keywords: ridgid table saw 4511 r4511 granite

New to the forum and I signed up just to gain some insight on my saw, a Ridgid R4511. The saw runs very well but needs some cosmetic repairs, something I am in the process of completing. Those of you who have this saw know how difficult spare parts are to come by and I am having a hell of a time finding the nylon set screws used to adjust the tilt of the fence and square it with the table. The online search was fruitless and I can’t even get the dimensions of the screw (I believe it is an M6). My question is; if unable to find an identical replacement, what would you all recommend I do?

-- “I call this turf ‘n’ turf. It’s a 16-ounce T-bone and a 24-ounce porterhouse. Also, whiskey and a cigar. I am going to consume all of this at the same time because I am a free American.” -Ron Swanson


35 replies so far

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greenacres2

354 posts in 2945 days


#1 posted 04-29-2020 11:23 PM

Not likely those set screws were custom to that saw. Our local Ace hardware has a thread checking display in the nut & bolt aisle—if you take one to that display you’ll be able to determine what you need, and they likely have what you need right there. If they are out…there is McMaster-Carr where you could buy a box of 25 for $6-$7 plus a few dollars to ship.

Nuts, bolts, knobs and such can often be replaced from that aisle—i hope the local hardware stores survive this social-distancing time, would hate to lose that resourse.
earl

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ChefHDAN

1659 posts in 3627 days


#2 posted 04-29-2020 11:48 PM

I’ve had good luck with odd screws at Lowes, they seem to have about everything in those drawers

-- I've decided 1 mistake is really 2 opportunities to learn.. learn how to fix it... and learn how to not repeat it

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wingless

77 posts in 520 days


#3 posted 04-30-2020 01:34 AM

Welcome to the forum.

My R4511 is a great tool that I am happy to own.

Here are some close up images of those adjustable glides. Knocking on wood, mine have been working fine.

A CNC lathe would be the best way to replicate these parts. The broad disc (½” DIA x 1/8” THK) w/ the radius around the circumference is designed to glide on the rails. A CNC lathe could make that part w/ the correct threads all as a single part, just like the original.

The top side has a standard Phillips slot. The machine shop making the part could also provide that feature. or a standard flat screwdriver slot would be easier to fabricate and would also work.

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wingless

77 posts in 520 days


#4 posted 04-30-2020 03:02 AM

As you probably know, that 089037005182 Special Screw is no longer available.

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MrUnix

8097 posts in 2976 days


#5 posted 04-30-2020 03:17 AM

It’s just a nylon bolt… would be trivial to fabricate one from a stock bolt that can be found all over (lowes, HD, fastenal, graingers, mc-master, ACE hardware, etc….). Hardest part is determining the thread size/pitch – but if you have one of the old ones, that should be trivial as well.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

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PurpLev

8574 posts in 4426 days


#6 posted 04-30-2020 03:36 AM

Can also fabricate it from HDFE or plastic dowel and a die if you know the threading from the other side or from the hole

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

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wingless

77 posts in 520 days


#7 posted 04-30-2020 11:05 AM

This thumb screw could probably be used.

The thread is ¼-20 and the existing part is larger. A new hole could be drilled and tapped next to the existing hole. The existing part is stronger, with the larger thread thread.

The head diameter is 3/4” and the existing diameter is ½”. That would not have an effect on the application.

The head thickness is 3/16” and the existing thickness is 1/8”. On my assembly there is ¼” between the rear of the head and the extrusion, so that extra 1/16” thickness would not have an effect on the application.

The thread length is 3/4” and the existing part is ½”. That would not have an effect on the application, or the part could be cut.

The part already has a radius on the circumference, useful for this application.

This does not have a Phillips receptacle on the tip of the threaded end. The easy solution would be to carefully cut a slot for a flat head screwdriver.

This part w/ the 5/16-18 thread has a head thickness of ¼”, twice the thickness of the existing part.

It might fit into the existing threaded holes.

The thicker head encroaches more into the adjustment range. This thicker part would work on my assembly, with the way the parts are currently adjusted.

If going this route it might be useful to order two of each part, two each of both the ¼-20 and the 5/16-18 shaft.

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Torr

23 posts in 3424 days


#8 posted 04-30-2020 01:04 PM

A similar idea to Wingless’ would be to use a regular set screw but put a plastic cap nut on it like these.

https://www.mcmaster.com/cap-nuts/plastic-cap-nuts-8/

Might not have the same bearing surface but functionally might work.

You might also just use a nylon set screw like these.

https://www.mcmaster.com/nylon-screws/set-screws/

Again, smaller bearing surface but might not matter in this application.

You might also make your own pad by gluing a nut to a piece of cork or plastic and use it with a regular screw.

Hope this helps

Torr

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CaptainKlutz

3202 posts in 2272 days


#9 posted 04-30-2020 01:19 PM

+1 Don’t over think replacement parts for threaded stuff.

PS – The internet is not always the best solution.
Sometimes it is best to get off the PC and visit a real store to find stuff like this. Takes me longer to surf internet, post question to forum asking for help, then drive 10 minutes to hardware store and spend < $2 buying a couple of nylon bolts. :-)

My local ACE Hardware has full line of Hillman fastener assortments. Including the Nylon metric machine screw and bolt collection.

Best Luck.

-- If it wasn't for bad luck, I wouldn't have no luck at all, - Albert King - Born Under a Bad Sign released 1967

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wingless

77 posts in 520 days


#10 posted 05-01-2020 02:44 PM

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OfficerDoofy

15 posts in 74 days


#11 posted 05-01-2020 04:20 PM

These are excellent ideas, I may just flip the bolts over and carefully cut a slot in the top. The side facing me has a slot for a flat blade screwdriver but it has been worn over the years to the point I can no longer adjust it. I believe I can just flip it over and use the knurled side for adjustments or, like I said, cut a slot into it.

These R4511’s are great saws, very interesting story about how I got lucky enough to find one. If I ever do modify it, I’ll upgrade the motor. I’ve done a few things so far (added a router wing, clean up fasteners, remove rust from fence and fence rails, etc.) but I think I may just buy a whole new section of steel for the front and rear fence rails. My shop is a mess, I know. It’ll be squared away and ready to play very soon, I’ve been busy with a few projects.

-- “I call this turf ‘n’ turf. It’s a 16-ounce T-bone and a 24-ounce porterhouse. Also, whiskey and a cigar. I am going to consume all of this at the same time because I am a free American.” -Ron Swanson

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wingless

77 posts in 520 days


#12 posted 05-01-2020 05:04 PM


These are excellent ideas, I may just flip the bolts over and carefully cut a slot in the top. The side facing me has a slot for a flat blade screwdriver but it has been worn over the years to the point I can no longer adjust it. I believe I can just flip it over and use the knurled side for adjustments or, like I said, cut a slot into it.

- OfficerDoofy

If the glide is fine, except the screwdriver adjustment is not possible, then why not just lift off the fence, rotate the glide and replace the fence, as you mentioned?

My glides have been untouched by me since I purchased the saw and they have remained fine in the adjustment from when I purchased the used saw.

Nice saw and nice router upgrade.

View OfficerDoofy's profile

OfficerDoofy

15 posts in 74 days


#13 posted 05-19-2020 05:29 PM


These are excellent ideas, I may just flip the bolts over and carefully cut a slot in the top. The side facing me has a slot for a flat blade screwdriver but it has been worn over the years to the point I can no longer adjust it. I believe I can just flip it over and use the knurled side for adjustments or, like I said, cut a slot into it.

- OfficerDoofy If the glide is fine, except the screwdriver adjustment is not possible, then why not just lift off the fence, rotate the glide and replace the fence, as you mentioned?

My glides have been untouched by me since I purchased the saw and they have remained fine in the adjustment from when I purchased the used saw.

Nice saw and nice router upgrade.

- wingless

Wingless,

I have no idea why I did not consider that, why the hell am I making this harder than it needs to be! My problem with the fence is that damn 1/8 gap between the bottom of the fence and the table, it’s not usually a problem but when I go to cut thin stuff I have to set up a sacrificial fence. If I could, I would replace the entire fence with something new but I cannot seem to find one that’ll much up to the unique design Ridgid used to make these fence rails.

Thanks for the compliment, it was my first try at a router wing and know that I know where I can improve, I may start over and integrate acrylic or phenolic instead of the 1/8” project panel. Don’t get me wrong, this stuff slides well, but it won’t hold up with repeated use. Maybe someone can suggest something different for the top?

-- “I call this turf ‘n’ turf. It’s a 16-ounce T-bone and a 24-ounce porterhouse. Also, whiskey and a cigar. I am going to consume all of this at the same time because I am a free American.” -Ron Swanson

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OfficerDoofy

15 posts in 74 days


#14 posted 05-19-2020 05:43 PM

Almost forgot to tell my story of how I came to be the owner of this R4511. I was bee-bopping around Craigslist and saw it. Never heard of the model before and was new to hybrid saws (used a Jerry-rigged contractor saw). I met with the owner, an Vietnam veteran, who told me he was dying of cancer and that he was selling all the stuff so ”my family doesn’t have to when I’m gone”. The look on the mans face as he peered around his workshop really tugged on my heartstrings. I looked around with him and let me tell you, this guy had equipment I’ve only seen in magazines. I’m talking about auger bits from the 40’s, Craftsman and Dunlap gear, power saws from the 50’s, and more handmade jigs than I’ve ever seen in one man’s shop. This guy loved his tools and it showed in his face, so I knew the table saw had been well-taken care of before I inspected it. Came back with a trailer and and took it home a few days later.

When I was cleaning out the cabinet I was just thinking about the decades of projects I was blasting away-lots of history in that sawdust. I’m very fortunate to have had this experience and I look forward to learning more from this community.

-- “I call this turf ‘n’ turf. It’s a 16-ounce T-bone and a 24-ounce porterhouse. Also, whiskey and a cigar. I am going to consume all of this at the same time because I am a free American.” -Ron Swanson

View Brandon's profile

Brandon

4235 posts in 3729 days


#15 posted 05-19-2020 07:09 PM

Officerdoofy, it sounds like you got a great saw. I also found a 4511 on Craigslist, but mine wasn’t as nicely cared for as much as yours was. I think the original owners just bought the saw for some deck/patio projects around their house. The orange paint was faded in places, the feet had rust, and there was even some deck paint on the legs. What gets me is that I paid $250 for the saw but the previous owners purchased it for $199.99 when HD was clearing them out just a couple of months prior. So they had a saw for two months and made money off of it! Still, getting the saw for $250 was a steal and I’m still using it eight or nine years later. There are times that I’d love to upgrade to a 3HP cabinet saw, but I don’t have the funds to do so.

-- "hold fast to that which is good"

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