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Forum topic by Richard | posted 04-27-2020 08:13 PM | 622 views | 0 times favorited | 21 replies | ![]() |
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04-27-2020 08:13 PM |
Topic tags/keywords: drill press question I started making some Gumball machines and need to drill some 4” and 5” holes for some of them. I have a set of hole saws from HF that I bought to drill holes for pipes and wires in a remodel job I helped a friend do and they worked fine for that. They seem to be a bit out of round so the holes are just a bit off. I know it is not a problem with my drill press since my forstner bits cut just fine with no wobble or out of round holes. Thanks Thanks for all the ideas , I got a set of Lennox saws and they are doing a great job , I also like that the hole saws can be changed quickly and don’t require any setup to get the size the same every time . |
21 replies so far
#1 posted 04-27-2020 08:28 PM |
Brand name hole saws are round. Just try stepping up to something like a Menards store brand, then up to Klein or Lennox or Milwaukee, till you find a good round / price balance. Are you sure the arbor in the saw is true? |
#2 posted 04-27-2020 08:41 PM |
I have used Lennox and Milwaukee and worked well. It takes a lot to use such a big hole saw and you need to really hold down your work piece. It can come loose and be dangerous. |
#3 posted 04-27-2020 09:06 PM |
Use one of your two routers and make a template works every time. Note : a 4 or 5” hole saw will eventually destroy your drill press. Suggested Method: Live in the garage is now better! .... -- Regards Rob |
#4 posted 04-27-2020 09:31 PM |
++ on the router. Nice spiral bit and you are in business. |
#5 posted 04-27-2020 10:18 PM |
The router is a good bet like they say above. My drill press has two cone shaped pullies with several levels that I can put them so, slower but more powerful for turning a large bit like a hole saw. And my arbor is massive on this old craftsman unit so no issues. If yours isn’t like that then you might consider the strain on it. Anyway…. I’ve had good luck with bi-metalic bits. They last a long time if you can find some that size. -- The smell of wood, coffee in the cup, the wife let's me do my thing, the lake is peaceful. |
#6 posted 04-27-2020 10:36 PM |
Router, on 4” and 5” a piece of cake with a router trammel. big is easy to a point, it’s teeeny tiny that can be tough. Using a template your only qualifier is size of the bit. Just make sure to do the holes prior to making any shapes, cutting flat work is easy, bumpy not so much. -- Think safe, be safe |
#7 posted 04-27-2020 11:05 PM |
. -- Andy - Seattle USA |
#8 posted 04-27-2020 11:33 PM |
I’m also of the mindset that a small router, spiral bit and a circle jig would be the best way to go. Faster, and cleaner too. But if you’re set on a hole saw; then you should look at a carbide tipped one. Milwaukee has a multi-tooth one in the sizes you need. $40-$50 each. Almost certainly a special order too. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-5-in-Carbide-Hole-Dozer-Saw-49-56-0748/310212743 |
#9 posted 04-27-2020 11:37 PM |
Make a template and use a router….best idea! |
#10 posted 04-27-2020 11:41 PM |
+ however many we’re at for a template and router. I do speaker and amp cabinets that require 10-ish and 12-ish inch holes. I use a router with a circle template to make the template. Then, I follow RobCastle’s steps. The router bit and jigsaw blades last longer than hole saws and are more accurate in the long run. -- John F. SoCal transplant, chewer uppper of good wood |
#11 posted 04-28-2020 12:22 AM |
My gripe with hole saws is that so often they wobble in the mandrel leaving a hole slightly larger than the nominal size of the hole saw. I’ve tried the more expensive mandrels with some improvement, but still not wholly satisfactory. I sometimes use them to make holes in aluminum or even steel, and their faults are even more pronounced. They dull quickly with this sort of use, naturally. -- I admit to being an adrenaline junky; fortunately, I'm very easily frightened |
#12 posted 04-28-2020 04:44 AM |
My experience with the wobble is they do it when using too small a mandrel for the size of the saw’s diameter. One of the reasons I wouldn’t buy a “set” unless it came with enough mandrels, and of the appropriate size to cover the saws included. Milwaukee tends to do this with theirs, lower level pieces like HF do not, they go more with one size fits all. Tiny bit, and mandrel on even a 2” saw will wobble. -- Think safe, be safe |
#13 posted 04-28-2020 01:08 PM |
Have drilled a LOT of large holes into wood over years. Use several methods. Back when I was cutting 50+ holes per day; used fly cutter or circle cutter like this: -- If it wasn't for bad luck, I wouldn't have no luck at all, - Albert King - Born Under a Bad Sign released 1967 |
#14 posted 04-28-2020 01:22 PM |
Fly cutter works if your drill press has a slow enough speed. Many do not. When I was building speakers, I found ny benchtop Delta was too fast for anything over about 4 inches. Scary. My new (old) floor model might a be a bit less intimidating. I went to a DIT router jig with an adjustable slide. |
#15 posted 04-29-2020 06:21 PM |
I found a set of Lennox saws at a local tool store for about half of what the Big Box stores charge and they seem to be doing fine. I like the fact that the hole saws are quick to change and don’t require any setup to get the size right like most jigs do. |
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