Aftermarket Table Saw Extensions & Franken Router Table Add-on

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Forum topic by Krystoph posted 04-27-2020 08:25 AM 1868 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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23 posts in 441 days

04-27-2020 08:25 AM

Topic tags/keywords: wood table saw dewalt dw746 contractor hybrid extensions add on

I’ve been enjoying my new (to me) table saw. Can’t remember exactly what type this would be considered, either contractor or hybrid? Dewalt DW746. I successfully did my first rabets and they were near perfect, especially considering my skill level and I didn’t even use a dado stack.

I’m already looking to expand and make it an even more versatile machine. I could build some add-ons but I feel like all I do is shop pieces, after almost a year of researching and shaping the shop I am ready to focus on things I have to actually try to make look nice instead of building to expand on things I have yet to truly use. The only exception being a router table extension but more on that in a moment. I know my saw is long past it’s discontinuation, haven’t been able to find manufacturer certified like the sliding table and out feed extension at any price.
The fence I already know I can adapt the unit to the fit it needs, what about the extension and sliding table? What info should I be looking at to see if it’s compatible/readily able to be altered to fit? Just the depth? Can a side extension go a little past the fence rail without any problems?

Now, for the router extension I will eventually want a cast iron Bench Dog (I am a Rockler fanboy) but once upon a time when I was a first researching and looking for pieces I stumbled across a router table by Wilton. At the time all I knew was how well liked their vises were so I essentially bought a pos harbor freight table with the Wilton name on it, I didn’t know Harbor Freight existed at the time. The lady selling it didn’t even have all the hardware so it never even got assembled. But thinking now, it came with a plug in safety switch (Score!), table legs and a couple of things that will now get revisited and used somehow. I was thinking maybe there is a way to get the router table on the side without ruining anything. I do have an extra side extension since my saw came with a cast iron wing. Is there any reason to not do this? I am new but I am able to breathe and take my time for a proper attempt at this.
Any input is greatly appreciated, questions? Comments? Concerns? Banter?

-- I imagine we are all but grains of star dust in the grand scope of time. But I suspect we are the universe and stars to the grains we cannot see.

8 replies so far

View Madmark2's profile


2842 posts in 1708 days

#1 posted 04-27-2020 10:02 AM

Put a ZCI (Zero Clearance Insert) on that contractor’s saw ASAP!

  • No or folding base – jobsite saw
  • Open base – contractors saw
  • Closed base – hybrid or cabinet saw

No point in having the wing extend past the rails if you want to use the fence with the router since the fence can’t go past the rails. If you use a separate fence it will interfere with the primary fence and you’ll endlessly be changing them out.

You do NOT want a router table with cast grooves in it. The grooves catch chips that interfere with feeding the stock. Go for a smooth surfaced table with just a miter slot in it.

Smooth surface prevents snags at 30,000 RPM!

-- The hump with the stump and the pump!

View ChefHDAN's profile


1808 posts in 3970 days

#2 posted 04-27-2020 02:14 PM

Khrys, Welcome to LJ, I have to agree with Mark, as much as it feels wasteful, I’d trash that top and go ahead and make a table top to drop a router in. It does seem like there is always another jig, fence, or fixture to make for many of the tasks, but those are things which make the job more accurate, safer, and repeatable. If you have not yet, your number 1 should be to build a crosscut sled, I have 2 at 90 deg. and one at 45 deg. they get used on every project. For your router, start looking to build a table top with a 1.5” hardwood edge that you can bolt onto your saw top & rails, With a router in a plate, it’s very simple to take the router in and out and do different tasks. Properly arranged, you can build an auxiliary fence to clamp to your existing fence and it will do double duty, here’s a quick sketch;

And for the Fence;

I see that you’re in a garage like I am, I had to do something different for my outfeed, take a look at this project

-- I've decided 1 mistake is really 2 opportunities to learn.. learn how to fix it... and learn how to not repeat it

View bigJohninvegas's profile


1047 posts in 2582 days

#3 posted 04-27-2020 05:41 PM

I can’t help with the sliding top, but I have had a couple different table saw router tables.
I am using a ridged r4512. So same class of saw as yours.
1st with the stock fence, then I upgraded to a beisemeyer commercial fence with the 52” rails. Both of these were right side mounted. And used phenolic or plywood as the surface. Then just last October I upgraded to a cast iron top that I installed on the left side.
So I half agree with junking that top. But, my table has evolved as my budget and needs allowed.
No matter if you junk it or keep it. Save the accessories like the power switch. I’m using a ryobi switch off an old POS router table, and it works fine.
All along I have had an older woodpeckers router lift that I got a great deal on. So always have had the drop in router set up. Finding a cast iron wing to fit my older woodpeckers lift was a challenge. Turns out the saw stop cast iron router wing fits the woodpecker lift. And cheaper than bench dog.
This 1st photo you can see that ryobi power switch. And my home made fence clamps
To the table saw fence. There are much better fence designs, but this one works fine. So I am having trouble taking the time to build a new improved version.
If you do use the Wilson table. Just drill it to fit the saw. Accessories come and go. So make everything fit the saw, not the other way around. I have added cast wings, sold one when I added the cast iron router wing. All came pre drilled with 4 holes. Table saw came with stamped wings and 3 hole. So I have had to drill the wings to fit the saw. 3 bopts have been fine. Plus also bolted to the fence rails. So plenty of support. Never a sagging issue.

-- John

View Madmark2's profile


2842 posts in 1708 days

#4 posted 04-27-2020 05:49 PM

Great setup.

Install a ZCI on the saw immediately.

-- The hump with the stump and the pump!

View Krystoph's profile


23 posts in 441 days

#5 posted 04-30-2020 03:09 AM

Sorry about the late response, but I will definitely look into making a router table extension instead of using that. What kind of material would work best? I don’t want to spend TOO much, functionality is most important. I’ve been wanting to edge glue this white oak I’ve had sitting around.
The fence on this isn’t very good, it’s giving a lot of kick back and screwing with my rabets. I think I actually want to try and make my own for the moment, and considering a Vega or Incra. Are all saw fences possible to be mounted with the right mindset and tools? I called Woodcraft looking for anything today and told me it would be a bad idea to buy say SawStop or Powermatic fence, but I’m under the impression I could switch the rails (even if I need to tap a few holes
I have a blank insert, still need to get holes set up for the set screws.
I know to lightly scrub, but I don’t care for the Mean Green I am currently using. Any suggestions on what cleaner you use? And paste wax to finish (apply coat, wait ten minutes and polish off), would using a power polisher for the last step be a bad Idea? At least the rule marks are dead accurate.
I’m also hesitant to tear her down for preventative maintenance. What kind of lubricants to use and where? I used white lithium on my planer and later think that’s probably not the best grease for the job. All sites are inconsistent that I’ve checked. She’s in great shape and I’d like to keep it that way, but tinkering with gears and motors is newer to me than any kind of wood working. Have a few machines I believe need work just don’t want to ruin anything, especially the vintage cast iron stuff I’ve been collecting.

-- I imagine we are all but grains of star dust in the grand scope of time. But I suspect we are the universe and stars to the grains we cannot see.

View ChefHDAN's profile


1808 posts in 3970 days

#6 posted 04-30-2020 11:04 AM

To your questions;

Router table materials – Mine is a piece of 3/4” melamine particle board, that was in the cull rack at HD. I cut it to size and edge wrapped it with 1”x 1.5” oak, glue & biscuit, not metal fasteners. Once dried I used the planer to sneak up on the final fit between rails. You can also go with most any stable substrate and then apply laminate, just do the laminate before the wrap.

Fence and Maintenance – the issues with the fence you describe sound to be much more related to the adjustment, and you need to take the time to go through the saw and make sure all of your adjustments are correct and spot on. As you’re somewhat new to the TS Kelly Mehler has an outstanding book for all you need to know and do to get your saw dead on. I’ve been running that same fence for over 15 years, only twice in the past 15 years have I had to readjust the fence, your problem is not the fence its the set up. There are many ways to do the set up and Kelly’s book will give you all you need to know and there are lots of ways to use a dial indicator and make jigs, but I found a woodpeckers saw gauge on sale a few years ago and I wish I had bought it sooner, not cheap but very simple to use and real quick to check alignment. Kelly’s book will also give you all of the info for the maintenance tasks and best practices, for my internal gears, I use an old toothbrush and apply the same Johnson’s paste wax I use on the tops to the gears. If you don’t have much/any rust on the top, I just use a green scotchbrite every now and then and then apply 2 coats of wax, no need to bother with a polisher.

-- I've decided 1 mistake is really 2 opportunities to learn.. learn how to fix it... and learn how to not repeat it

View MrRon's profile


6045 posts in 4363 days

#7 posted 05-02-2020 09:49 PM

Anything is possible. It all depends on your skill level. Store personnel have a limited knowledge to advise a customer as to what is possible or not. Many an old timer has made something work because of his inventive mind vs off-the-shelf modern day solutions. Which one are you? As an “old timer” myself, I am of the “nothing is impossible” mindset. It’s not a question of being cheap. If it can be done, I will find a way to do it.

View Kzaker's profile


1 post in 38 days

#8 posted 05-14-2021 08:44 PM

Sorry to bump and old thread.

What did you ever do with this saw? I’ve got the same one but it’s a bit too large for my soon to be shrinking shop. I’ve got the 52” rail and sliding table and it makes the whole thing like 7 feet long!

Just wanted to echo some other suggestions and get a Shark Guard (or similar) aftermarket splitter and guard. There is obviously no riving knife on this model (there are some pretty robust instructions on adding one using the European model’s parts)

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