Question about Dewalt 779

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Forum topic by vjc posted 04-26-2020 10:46 PM 567 views 0 times favorited 18 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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12 posts in 1240 days

04-26-2020 10:46 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question

Hello Lumberjocks,
I’m thinking of upgrading from my 12” Rigid sliding miter saw to the Dewalt 779 but have some questions – I don;t want to spend the money and have the same issues that I have with the Rigid.

My first question is, how accurate is the 779? Can you make a frame with 45 degree miters that will actually come together as a rectangle? The Rigid doesn’t even come close.

Second question is about cutting a miter on a wide piece – say a piece of 1×4 – will the cut be square? Again, the Rigid cannot do that. Mine is about 1/8 out of square on a 1×4 at 45 degrees. It’s good at 90 degrees but not at 45. There is no adjustment for this.

Thanks in advance.

18 replies so far

View Picken5's profile


320 posts in 3545 days

#1 posted 04-26-2020 11:24 PM

I’m sure someone will not agree with me on this, but here goes…

In my experience, no one makes a miter saw that cuts accurate 45 degree angles. And, I believe the accuracy drops with a sliding miter saw versus a standard miter saw. BTW, I know some guys have had great luck with some of the higher end Dewalt and Bosch sliding miter saws. I have fixed (non-sliding) Dewalt miter saw in my shop which I use primarily to cut down longer stock. For accurate cuts, I use my table saw — and usually with a sled. Just my 2 cents.

-- Howard - "Time spent making sawdust is not deducted from one's lifetime." - old Scottish proverb

View AlaskaGuy's profile


6005 posts in 3162 days

#2 posted 04-27-2020 01:48 AM

I do critical 45s on the table saw. There are accurate miter saw made but you need very deep pockets to buy one. And they weigh a ton if you want portable.

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

View ChefHDAN's profile


1734 posts in 3703 days

#3 posted 04-27-2020 05:20 PM

My Rigid 10” CMS does a very good job with miters, but it did take some futzing around to get it 99% accurate, mine is an older one maybe 2008 and the newer ones I have looked seem to have much lighter castings and perhaps they can’t be adjusted as well. For my furniture pieces though, I have a dead-nuts sled for the TS and that is all I would use for fine work.

-- I've decided 1 mistake is really 2 opportunities to learn.. learn how to fix it... and learn how to not repeat it

View RichS's profile


5 posts in 3799 days

#4 posted 04-28-2020 06:21 AM

I have never been more disappointed in a purchase than the 779 I bought at Lowe’s.
The blade is a 30-tooth with a very thin plate and minuscule carbide teeth—Useless for fine cuts lots of tear out and rough cuts.
Changing the blade was a major PITA . I’ve never had to disassemble the and remove the blade guard just to change a blade,
I tried to remove the fence to replace the plastic plate with a diy Baltic birch zero clearance replacement. The star head bolt was impact-driven so hard that the Chinesieum wrench snapped off leaving the business end of the wrench embedded in the bolt.
Hang-on when you hit the start switch—the starting torque is severe enough to yank the handle out of your hand. First time was scary, now just extremely annoying.
Poor dust control.
Way BIG and awkward—OK on a job-site (outdoors) cutting framing 2-by’s. Very cumberson for a home shop.
I wish I had my cheap (Costco), almost 15 years’ old worn-out Hitachi saw back!

I’m going back to Milwaukee, P-C, Bosch, etc. DeWalt is destroying their reputation with poor QC, sub-par materials and product design. No more Big-box Chinese knock-offs for me.

View MarkLTX's profile


8 posts in 392 days

#5 posted 05-16-2020 05:27 PM

I also bought a 779 from Lowes and ended up returning it. For some reason it wouldn’t cut a straight line. The cuts were actually convex (high in the middle). Not by much, you could barely see a straight-edge rock back and forth on the edge. I replaced it with the DeWalt non-sliding 10” model. It cuts straight and square but I haven’t tried cutting any 45s or bevels. The miter lock is a knob at the front. When you tighten the knob it lifts the front of the table (bed?) which I think would screw up miters and bevels.

View JackDuren's profile


1324 posts in 1813 days

#6 posted 05-16-2020 05:32 PM

If you can find a good and we’ll taken care of Dewalt 708 youll be happy….

View SweetTea's profile


477 posts in 1513 days

#7 posted 05-17-2020 02:16 PM

The DW780 is a much much better saw than their DW779. They may look identical on the outside but the internal parts on the 780 are much different. I have read many comments on this and one guy on another board actually spoke to Dewalt’s technical support technician who told him that the armature, bearings, motor and several other internal parts were much higher quality on the DW780 versus the DW779. He said the bearings on the slide rails are higher quality on the 780 too. I wouldn’t waist your money on a 779. I would get the 780 which is one of the best miter saws on the market. The only better miter saws than the 780 are the CTG, OMGA, and Festool.

View GR8HUNTER's profile


7789 posts in 1566 days

#8 posted 05-17-2020 03:03 PM

not trying to be a smart a$$ here but if you want perfect miters you must use your table saw and a jig or buy the dewalt and take tons of time sanding it to be perfect there is a YouTube video on it :<))

-- Tony---- Reinholds,Pa.------ REMEMBER TO ALWAYS HAVE FUN

View JackDuren's profile


1324 posts in 1813 days

#9 posted 05-17-2020 03:09 PM

not trying to be a smart a$$ here but if you want perfect miters you must use your table saw and a jig or buy the dewalt and take tons of time sanding it to be perfect there is a YouTube video on it :<))


Incorrect. Set up is everything. You’ll take the time to set up a tables saw, you should take the time to set up the Dewalt..

View Rich's profile


5887 posts in 1443 days

#10 posted 05-17-2020 04:59 PM

Incorrect. Set up is everything. You ll take the time to set up a tables saw, you should take the time to set up the Dewalt..

- JackDuren

I’m with Jack on this one. I swing my Makita 1013 right or left to the stops and cut perfect miters every time. Get your fence square and if the stops are machined correctly, you’re all set. I’ve had this saw 20 years and it’s been a flawless performer.

-- Half of what we read or hear about finishing is right. We just don’t know which half! — Bob Flexner

View vjc's profile


12 posts in 1240 days

#11 posted 05-18-2020 01:34 PM

Thanks to all of you for all these responses.
I agree that setup is everything if adjustments are provided. In the case of my Rigid there is no adjustment to square the blade to the table at all miter angles. And that is why I hesitate to buy another miter saw. Obviously some of you have gotten a good one, but right now I don’t think I want to spend the time and money to see if I get lucky. For now I think I’ll just take the time and make a table saw sled and be sure that I can make whatever adjustments are necessary to get accurate cuts.

View Rick  Dennington's profile

Rick Dennington

6985 posts in 4048 days

#12 posted 05-18-2020 05:21 PM

Not trying to change any ones mind about what saw you need to buy, but here’s my experience with my DeWalt 779 that I bought at Lowes a couple of years ago. It was pretty much ‘dead on the money” right out of the box, but a little tweaking made it better. I checked all the settings, stops, and crosscuts, and it was dead on. But… ensure accurate 45 degree cuts, I built a 45 degree miter sled and cut them on the table saw, using 2 runners to reduce wiggle room…..I did change the blade to an 80 tooth carbide, as the blade that comes with the saw pretty well sucks. All and all, I’m pretty well pleased with the saw, but haven’t been able to use it much in the last couple of years due to having 2 back surgeries….I’m just glad I got it set up before the surgeries….!!

-- " There's a better way.....find it"...... Thomas Edison.

View vjc's profile


12 posts in 1240 days

#13 posted 05-18-2020 05:46 PM

Rick, sorry to hear about the back surgery, hope you get back in shape soon.
This is what attracts me to this saw, allot of guys are saying the same thing in the reviews. I’ll probably take the plunge eventually, but I think I’ll make the sled first.

Another thing I’ve wondered about is if the 779 has a depth stop. The Rigid does but there is so much flex in the arm that you can’t make accurate, repeatable cuts – like you might to make a lap joint.

View Rick  Dennington's profile

Rick Dennington

6985 posts in 4048 days

#14 posted 05-18-2020 06:15 PM

Yes….the saw has a depth stop, but actually I’ve never used it. Just checked it to make sure it was working properly. I’ve made several lap joints, but not on this saw. I have a radial arm saw I used to use to make lap cuts using a dado 8” dado set, or the same on the table saw. The miter sled I made is very simple, but is also accurate.
here’s a picture of the one I made for the table saw.

-- " There's a better way.....find it"...... Thomas Edison.

View CWWoodworking's profile


1022 posts in 1032 days

#15 posted 05-18-2020 08:51 PM

I use a miter saw for rustic picture frames. 3.5”, 5”, 5.5” profiles. They are pretty good, not perfect as for as the miters go.

I wouldn’t hesitate at all on a DeWalt saw for around 4” wide profile.

If I wanted perfect miters in 5” profile I would use table saw. Kinda silly though cause a 5” miter probably isn’t gonna remain perfect.

showing 1 through 15 of 18 replies

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