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Jigsaw blade not perpendicular?

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Forum topic by jamsomito posted 04-26-2020 02:16 AM 1020 views 0 times favorited 20 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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jamsomito

635 posts in 1441 days


04-26-2020 02:16 AM

Is this normal? This is set with orbit off.

I can’t find an adjustment for the guide bearing, and the manual doesn’t indicate one either. I did some sleuthing and found even the manufacturer stock images of this model show the same weird angle on the blade…

I’m working on a gymnastics bar for my middle son with bounds of energy. I happen to have a 1-1/4” hard maple dowel rod laying around that would be perfect for it, so I grabbed the last of my 2×4 stash and started working on a stand. I didn’t have the right drill bit to make a perfectly fitting hole for the dowel, so I chose the closest I had and decided I’d expand it to size on the oscillating spindle sander. Well even with 80-grit it was taking forever because I could only use a 1/2” spindle, so I then decided to jigsaw out most of the waste and finish it up with the spindle sander to smooth everything out. Well, my holes all ended up conical!

I’ve been having accuracy problems with this saw since I got it, but just chalked it up to blade drift, poor form, or just the rough nature of the tool. I’m thinking this is contributing.

Is this due to design so the guide bearing works? Is this fixable? Kind of frustrated right now because I used my last 2×4 on this. Thanks for any tips!


20 replies so far

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jamsomito

635 posts in 1441 days


#1 posted 04-26-2020 02:51 PM

I cannot figure this out. Perhaps it’s because this blade is designed for fast cutting and it’s wider for more rigidity. I’ll check a finer blade later today. In the meantime I’ve found other forum threads that said it’s simply the orbit feature, but I assure you it’s not – orbit is off and it oscillates in this same line when I run it. The manual also has no mention of a forward angle. It even describes the orbit function as vertical up and rear-ward angle down.

I’m really confused on this. Is this a normal blade position for a jigsaw?

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Lazyman

6664 posts in 2402 days


#2 posted 04-26-2020 02:57 PM

The blade on my Bosch JS0260 is square to the base.

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

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bandit571

27909 posts in 3698 days


#3 posted 04-26-2020 03:00 PM

Wrong blade….need the skinnier “Scroll” blade. Also, check the blade holder to see what is holding the blade out like that. Looks like the roller behind the blade is out too far forward….should be hanging the blade straight down…see if the blade guide roller can be slid back….until the blade hangs vertical…

-- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use

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GR8HUNTER

8311 posts in 1727 days


#4 posted 04-26-2020 03:10 PM

I would have just bought a 1 1/4” THIS :<)))

-- Tony---- Reinholds,Pa.------ REMEMBER TO ALWAYS HAVE FUN :<))

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Lazyman

6664 posts in 2402 days


#5 posted 04-26-2020 03:11 PM

I just glanced at the manual for yours and the the diagram (page 10) for the orbit setting shows the blade straight for zero setting and angled backwards for the 1-3.

It must be hard to follow a line with the bottom of the blade in front of the top.

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

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syenefarmer

573 posts in 4095 days


#6 posted 04-26-2020 03:13 PM

WAG, the blade isn’t installed all the way into the housing. When my Bosch 1590 was new and even sometimes now, the blade required a little extra push in order for it to seat properly.

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jamsomito

635 posts in 1441 days


#7 posted 04-26-2020 03:59 PM


Wrong blade….need the skinnier “Scroll” blade. Also, check the blade holder to see what is holding the blade out like that. Looks like the roller behind the blade is out too far forward….should be hanging the blade straight down…see if the blade guide roller can be slid back….until the blade hangs vertical…

- bandit571

Yeah, I had a finer blade on first but the problem is they’re all too short for this 1-1/2” thick 2×4. This blade is the only one I have that’s long enough. I’m aware it’s a rough blade but I really only need a rough cut anyway because I’ll be finessing it on my spindle sander afterwards. I agree the guide bearing seems too far forward, but everything I’ve found looking at the saw or the manual indicates it’s fixed and can only be replaced like for like.


I would have just bought a 1 1/4” THIS :<)))

- GR8HUNTER

Don’t tempt me – I can’t buy just one! Everyone knows it’s cheaper to buy the whole kit! hahaha. This has crossed my mind but I really don’t want to make unnecessary trips to the store right now, and budget is kind of tight until this lockdown is over. These are moving up my priority list quickly though I’ll say…


I just glanced at the manual for yours and the the diagram (page 10) for the orbit setting shows the blade straight for zero setting and angled backwards for the 1-3.

It must be hard to follow a line with the bottom of the blade in front of the top.

- Lazyman

Yes, I saw that too. Something ain’t right here. Surprisingly it cuts straight just fine, but always makes conical curves. I’ve always chalked it up to my poor technique, but now I’m second guessing that.


WAG, the blade isn t installed all the way into the housing. When my Bosch 1590 was new and even sometimes now, the blade required a little extra push in order for it to seat properly.

- syenefarmer

I’ll have to mess with this when I’m back in the shop later. I’m thinking it’s either a “feature” of this rough cut blade or perhaps it’s not installed right. I did quite a bit of cutting last night with it this way though and it’s in there solid as a rock. Maybe I just got lucky.

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jamsomito

635 posts in 1441 days


#8 posted 04-27-2020 02:31 AM

Ok, big update. I spent a few hours on this today.

First, checked the blade. There is a bend in it… but it’s by design. Not sure why. But the first linear part of the back side of the blade is exactly where the bearing rides, so I’m confident it’s not a coincidence.

Put the other blade in, same problem.

Took the foot off, no issues there. Everything looks fine on the front end.

I thought long and hard about this next part. It’s out of warranty so I figured I’d dive in. I’ve heard of assembly issues at the plant, perhaps it is a simple fix.

The oscillating mechanism is in its own housing. The back side contains the oscillating counterweight and a pin that travels vertically with the counterweight that depresses a lever on the bottom near the foot that controls the guide bearing rocker for the orbit function. All looks fine.

The front half of the enclosure has the slider for the main blade oscillating motion, the whole blade lock mechanism, and the guide bearing. The guide bearing is a simple rocker, nothing special here. I did note the blade receiver can swing front to back for 1) easier blade changes, 2) orbital function, and 3) it’s spring loaded to apply backwards pressure on the guide bearing to keep the blade straight.

Bullet point #3 warranted some looking into, but it’s a simple metal stop and it appears to travel it’s whole range. I thought about filing down the metal stop, but the blade receivers motion is also governed by the guide bearing (which was controlled by a separate mechanism), and I didn’t want to introduce slop in the tool as a whole. So, I chickened out and didn’t; though, to me, it seems everything is assembled as intended and by design.

Here’s a video showing what I’m talking about: https://photos.app.goo.gl/byoGnvP7SzLJQLZv8

SOOOO, I put it all back together and moved to option B – shim the foot.

I took a measurement and it’s off by 1/8” over about an inch and a half run. It’s really bad. So for now I cut some thin strips of an oak scrap I had laying around and shoved them in and tightened everything down.

Not perfect, but I’ll take it over what it was!

I also took the opportunity to square it up in the left/right axis too.

So there we have it. I have no idea what’s wrong with this thing. The internals all seem fine. I don’t see how the guide bearing could move back, unless one of the metal “stops” inside is too long. If anyone sees something out of place in my photos, let me know! Otherwise my shim band-aids will have to do. I can’t believe it’s so far off. For now at least, it’s better.

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corelz125

2402 posts in 1991 days


#9 posted 04-27-2020 04:09 AM

The base plate on my saw is adjustable. Does that saw have the same feature?

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tvrgeek

1475 posts in 2664 days


#10 posted 04-27-2020 11:46 AM

Looked at my old Bosch 1582. Dead on straight.
I think there is something defective in your saw. I see no reason for the tilt. Actually, would make curves hard to do. What does BOSCH say?

As you have a drill press, I was going to suggest an Irwin adjustable bit, but they are expensive. I bought a set of big cheap twist bits from Horrible Freight pretty cheap. A little late now, but you can buy good hole saws one at a time.

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PeteStaehling

137 posts in 2134 days


#11 posted 04-27-2020 12:09 PM

It would have never occurred to me to reach for a jig saw for that job. Buy yourself some Forstner bits if at all possible. You can probably find some with free shipping and delivery within 2-3 days. i have ordered a few shop items during this social distancing and found pretty quick delivery on most of them and even next day on one.

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jamsomito

635 posts in 1441 days


#12 posted 04-27-2020 12:23 PM



The base plate on my saw is adjustable. Does that saw have the same feature?

- corelz125

You know, there are some screws in the metal plate on the foot, I just assumed they were to hold it on. Perhaps these are for leveling. Even so I’d be surprised if they can adjust this far. I’ll check it out later.


It would have never occurred to me to reach for a jig saw for that job. Buy yourself some Forstner bits if at all possible. You can probably find some with free shipping and delivery within 2-3 days. i have ordered a few shop items during this social distancing and found pretty quick delivery on most of them and even next day on one.

- PeteStaehling

Yes, indeed, it’s on my list. This was supposed to be a quick project I could knock out with what I already had. This method will work though, and I’m confident the spindle sander will make a nice hole in the end. Just a few extra steps, and I also identified and fixed an issue on a tool that won’t cause another problem on another project!

Looking around, the cheapest kit I could find that includes a 1-1/4” bit is $60. Unfortunately that’s not in the budget right now. I believe it was Irwin – are those decent quality bits? Reviews seem good on amazon at least. I’ve heard the saw tooth vs smooth sides and materials can make a big difference. I was eyeing some Fisch bits a while back but those would break the bank in a hurry.

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Tony1212

501 posts in 2749 days


#13 posted 04-27-2020 01:21 PM

To me, it would seem to indicate that the whole oscillating mechanism is installed incorrectly. Like something wasn’t fully seated during assembly.

I would be looking for obstructions or gaps near the blade attachment.

-- Tony, SW Chicago Suburbs

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jamsomito

635 posts in 1441 days


#14 posted 04-27-2020 01:22 PM

Take a look at the video I posted of the mechanism: https://photos.app.goo.gl/HEu7d8KxRKSoE8Tz5

Seems solid to me, but maybe you can see something I can’t. It’s packed full of grease which doesn’t help, but I’m not finding anything wrong with it.

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jamsomito

635 posts in 1441 days


#15 posted 04-27-2020 01:33 PM

Also, I emailed Bosch tools customer service but it will be 3-4 business days before I get a response.

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