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Forum topic by Italo78 | posted 04-23-2020 04:11 AM | 3367 views | 0 times favorited | 14 replies | ![]() |
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04-23-2020 04:11 AM |
Topic tags/keywords: mft 20mm dog holes 34” festool Does anyone have a suggestion on the best way to expand the 3/4” holes on my workbench to 20mm Festool style. I received a few clamps from a relative that are used with an MFT table and will not fit on my workbench. I was debating between a 20 mm drill bit or a 20mm boring router bit. Any thoughts on getting the best results. Thanks ahead of time |
14 replies so far
#1 posted 04-23-2020 05:36 AM |
I would just use a regular twist drill. Don’t try to use an auger , spade, or forstner etc. Even a cheap junky one like this would probably work since its mostly drilled out already. The taper will center itself in the 3/4 hole. https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Diameter-Twist-Straight-Drilling/dp/B00G9TX0YE |
#2 posted 04-23-2020 05:37 AM |
I’d try a 20 mm forstner bit. To prevent side travel, first bore though a piece of scrap, then clamp this scrap over your existing hole, and drill. If there are many holes in a line, say 4” from the front of the bench then make the scrap to have the correct distance for a repeatable jig. Just remember to stay vertical. Good Luck. I think SMP’s idea would work better and quicker. but still test after one hole. |
#3 posted 04-23-2020 09:06 AM |
Gotta love Festool being unique for everything. As 20mm bits may be expensive, you could route a large diameter jig for the outside of your router and use a 1/4 spiral bit. Not as easy, but you may have everything. Ugly way: rasp. Could do the taper. |
#4 posted 04-23-2020 12:04 PM |
I’m assuming that you can find a 20mm bit of some sort. I would plug the 3/4” holes with dowel, mark the centre of the dowels and drill them out using the 20mm bit. -- Grant Wilkinson, Ottawa ON |
#5 posted 04-23-2020 01:04 PM |
I would begin the hole with a step drill that goes to 20 mm. Then you can continue with the 20mm bit of your choice. It would center the hole -- Just trying to build something beautiful |
#6 posted 04-23-2020 01:09 PM |
Why not just use a file or rasp? It’s only 1mm that you need to remove. .............. Jerry (in Tucson) -- Jerry (in Tucson) www.woodturnerstools.com |
#7 posted 04-23-2020 01:30 PM |
You can use one of these chucking reamers -- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress. |
#8 posted 04-23-2020 03:45 PM |
SMP has it right. Regular old twist drill will work quick and easy. Forstner bits need a center point or they’ll chatter and chew up the edges. Filling the holes and redrilling is a lot of work. Why not just drill new holes a little away from the originals and save all the plugging & gluing? Routing 1/2 mm off the sides of the hole is scary if you have to do one, dozens would be a chore esp if 2” deep. You’ld have to build a precise jig to make it feasible. Clamping is an issue unless you use a dog hole jig and even the the last few holes won’t have the right dia. Hand reaming will give you a forearm like a fiddler crab. Follow SMP’s advice. Mcmaster.com has the 20mm bit here Alternately just drill separate 20mm holes so you can use either 20mm or 3/4” dogs. -- The hump with the stump and the pump! |
#9 posted 04-23-2020 04:00 PM |
Another vote for a 20 mm twist drill. It’ll ream your hole fast and clean. -- I collect hobbies. There is no sense in limiting yourself (Don W) - - - - - - - - Kenny in SW VA |
#10 posted 04-23-2020 04:10 PM |
+1 for the 20mm twist bit. Self centering and easy, just make sure it is sharp. |
#11 posted 04-25-2020 08:42 PM |
Festool isn’t really unique in utilizing 20mm holes. It’s simply the standard in Europe – where they are headquartered. If there’s anything unique , it’s that we here in the USA are the only place that doesn’t use the metric system. and I’m not looking to start a debate on whether on not we should adopt it ! I absolutely agree with SMP on the way to enlarge. 20mm twist bit is the only way to fly. |
#12 posted 04-25-2020 09:51 PM |
If only you were making a bigger jump, a simple tricks is use a hole saw that just fits the hole, then put it inside the larger one and mount both on the mandrel. Since it’s such a small jump, I’m in favor of the guide, since even a spur or Forstner will want to walk and a twist will want to tear out at the top. One more possibility is to use a step bit to just start the 20 mm indentation for the Forstner or spur or even the twist bit. |
#13 posted 04-26-2020 12:04 AM |
or a Set of 3 step drills on Amazon Prime -- Andy - Seattle USA |
#14 posted 04-26-2020 01:13 AM |
if you’re lucky enough to have a plunge router with two identical motors, put a 3/4” bit in one to use as a centering guide, then clamp the base… swap the motors, with the second one having a 20mm bit, then plunge been doing it that way for a while, but i have all the right gear; see if maybe you can borrow, if need be |
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